Multichip LED, Remote Phosphor - Guess who it is.

SnotBoogie

Well-Known Member
Been meaning to ask your opinion SDS (and guod if you see it)....

Was considering the SSLs for WW on my latest panel, so far the XT-E have been my most likely choice, simply because they are more powerful ( i.e I can use less modules) and have more similar profile (current and beam angle) to the reds and deepreds I would mix with (i havent bought them yet, though)

Whats your thoughts on that?
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Been meaning to ask your opinion SDS (and guod if you see it)....

Was considering the SSLs for WW on my latest panel, so far the XT-E have been my most likely choice, simply because they are more powerful ( i.e I can use less modules) and have more similar profile (current and beam angle) to the reds and deepreds I would mix with (i havent bought them yet, though)

Whats your thoughts on that?
=> ....Here ...Post #118 ...
 

SnotBoogie

Well-Known Member
Perfect!

Still, the problem of different currents, means seperate circuits for me if i use them. Unless i used SSL for the coloured LED too.
 

jubiare

Active Member
The xte are the best whites to date! Look at the graphs.. They behave nicely even at 85degrees but the best part is if you run them cool the luminous flux increases as no other whites... They are a step ahead for sure! I got some to play with myself eheh.

There's also many choices of temps within bins.. It gets a bit tricky and bear in mind kelvin graphs are not that accurate unfortunately to determine actual facts!

Driven at 700 or 750-800 with the right cooling they are beasts!

Their V is also lower compared to other whites.. Meaning less drivers and less watts burned when many are employed.
There's no comparison with other whites at the moment +good price!
 

Bumping Spheda

Well-Known Member
Best Cool and Neutral White's, probably, but Warm White? If you're like me and you'd like to believe in the accuracy of manufacturer Kelvin graphs those "Osram Oslon SSL LCW CQ7P.CC 2700 K" buggers are mean, look them up!
 

SnotBoogie

Well-Known Member
Jub, curious to hear your opinions of the SSL....


Also I dont understand why you would drive the XTE so gently? I would probably drive at 1.2A and cool it to old-school temps rather than letting them sit at 85C.
 

heckler73

Well-Known Member
Also I dont understand why you would drive the XTE so gently? I would probably drive at 1.2A and cool it to old-school temps rather than letting them sit at 85C.
I think the answer can be summed up in three words: Diminishing Marginal Returns
Never mind the extra energy (or material) required for cooling purposes .
Would it not make more sense, in that case, to use TWO LEDs instead?

xte forward current.jpg
 

SnotBoogie

Well-Known Member
Balancing physical performance vs cost I would still probably run them a little harder, though.

edit: But yeah, 1.2A was a silly suggestion
 

Bumping Spheda

Well-Known Member
Imo, there isn't a huge curve in that graph, it looks rather linear. I don't see a huge difference in efficiency, I don't think I'd mind running them a little harder. 1.2W, 1W, .7-.8W? It's all good.
 

heckler73

Well-Known Member
Imo, there isn't a huge curve in that graph, it looks rather linear. I don't see a huge difference in efficiency, I don't think I'd mind running them a little harder. 1.2W, 1W, .7-.8W? It's all good.
Looking back at the Flux vs. Current, you may be right... after ~300ma, the diminishing effect is rolling off more smoothly...
but 1.2W?
That's not what he was talking about before... it was 1.2 AMPS!!!
Or was my brain sleeping while my eyes were moving? (always a possibility)

XTE crazy.jpg
 

SnotBoogie

Well-Known Member
LOL

I did indeed say 1200ma.

Datasheet rates them for 1500ma at 85C

Notice Tj=85C for that graph.

I would be cooling them to "oldschool temperatures" - ie, 25C.

I would also still say that 1200ma is far too high, though. maaybe 1A
 

jubiare

Active Member
SSL are great!
But xte is a newer territory; if you look at graphs you can see that cooling them nicely archives better flux that the 85degrees (at which they'd work anyhow for es. If your fan fails given you actively cool your array)

You can drive them nicely up to 1100ma (I wouldn't go higher than that but you can) if you want to! But yet, driving them softer makes for more efficiency/longer lifespan.. You just utilise more of them as it was already pointed out. There's a thread by supra on here where I think he calculates losses/gains at different currents
 

Bumping Spheda

Well-Known Member
Update on the grow.

Kid has a few flowers. Not sure what the deal is, he's still technically in veg on an 18/6 period, but oh well. I watered him the other day and saw a burst of vertical growth. I also trimmed a few more dry, crispy leaves. I'm thinking I don't water him enough, he seems to like wet soil a lot more than mj plants. Anyway, his lights are off right now so I failed to get a recent picture of him. Next time you see him his looks will have changed a lot!

Little Chiesel is getting bigger. Here are some shots of her a couple days ago.
p1120439o.jpgp1120441ai.jpg
Lovely as ever. Her first set of leaves have crimped up a bit, but rather symmetrically. I'm thinking something stressed those leaves out during the germination phase.

But, her roots were swirling around on the bottom so I decided it was time to transplant her. Here's an up to date shot.
p1120443f.jpg
She looks a bit jaded, imo. Hopefully she forgives me. I also decided to add some amendments to the bottom half or so of her new soil so she'll be growing into that stuff within the next few days/week. Fingers crossed she's not dead next time I update! I'm thinking this ice cream container is big enough for a mother in this size of a tent, so it might be the last time I transplant. After this it's cloning time.



And on the mixing chamber front I've gotten the White film from FusionOptix. Time to get down to business and build the vacuum forming table for some RP testing. :leaf:
 

SnotBoogie

Well-Known Member
I really find the first and even second set of leaves rather misleading personally (i mean the first set of proper leaves, not the cotyledon leaves, the spearhead shaped ones). They tend to die off pretty quickly and when youre obsessing over your babies its easy to jump on the deficiency train and start trying to remedy things that will straighten out naturally,, or will not progress past the baby leaves. Just my 2 shiny pennies.
 

Bumping Spheda

Well-Known Member
Update on Kid. He's looking better today. I gave him a big watering yesterday after trimming more dried leaves. Today I gave him a little bit more water with some food in it. Trying to sort out his under watering and deficiencies that he's been dealing with. As far as I can tell his flowers haven't opened up fully yet for me to take pollen and attempt pollination.

p1120457r.jpgp1120456b.jpg



And that big red thing in the background is just a bag with some supersoil in it "cooking." Don't know how long it will take before I have a clone big enough to go into that stuff, but it'll be there waiting.

Perhaps now some of you see why I was trying to delay this journal as much as possible to begin with! Not many interesting things to report quite yet, but hopefully you're enjoying the ride at least somewhat.

And, just because I like the idea of posting music, here's a random song to hopefully capture your attention for a short while. (Changes sound @ ~3:00)
[video=youtube;uNqG71WPLtQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNqG71WPLtQ[/video]

Stay safe.
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Your kid is showing preflowers^^^? at that stage and on 18/6......you may have an auto. Kid looks healthy and NO it's not normal to lose your first set of leaves.

watching with interest......good luck grower
 

Bumping Spheda

Well-Known Member
Hey, thanks for the input. Well, yes and no. See the yellow flowers in those last pictures? Those aren't preflowers, those things are blooming. I didn't know tomatoes came in auto flower varieties (probably showing my ignorance here). I have no idea what kind of tomato it is other than "beefsteak" as that's what I stole all the seeds from.

I had planned on just vegging this guy until it was warm enough to move it outdoors, but it doesn't look like it wants to play that game. It would seem as though it's going to get huge in that amount of time and will most likely be working on a few tomatoes by then. Some of its older leaves have dried out to the point that they were crispy and crumbled to the touch. I haven't been able to identify what's exactly wrong with it by looking at photographs of others' plants, nothing seems to fit the bill. I can take some macro shots of a few of the leaves if you feel like taking a crack at it.

No pest problems that I can tell and new growth looks perfectly healthy, it just doesn't have enough energy to keep everything alive it seems. I'd say by description it's closest to a Nitrogen and/or Phosphorus and/or Calcium deficiency, but it doesn't really fit any of those categories exceptionally well. I'm just hoping that some food and more frequent watering will do it right and that after chopping the rest of the partially affected leaves in the near future (if that's needed) that it'll just straighten itself out. After reading a tiny bit on tomato plant care it seems that these plants enjoy moist soil much more than mj so I guess I'll find out if most of my problems are from just assuming, "Hey, both species are within the same family, they probably like similar conditions."

It does look very compact, however, just by comparing my plant to pictures on the internet. At least I know the light is doing its job just as well -if not better- than I had hoped. It's even got a new branch that wants to grow from basically dirt level. It's working on tons of new growth it seems.
 
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