your plants are showing early signs of the same thing, dude. jheeze.they still somehow show deficiencies.
The same 'early signs' of a 'deficiency' at harvest, after they've been fed the same food at the same EC for the previous 9 weeks? lolyour plants are showing early signs of the same thing, dude. jheeze.
What you're really looking for is someone that'll agree that it's the plant food's fault and not yours.This is going nowhere. there are clearly more experienced, wiser minds i could pick.
No one is saying that you're not doing a good job. What I'm saying is that you're an idiot for cherry-picking single leaves thinking there is some sort of systemic issue caused by a nutrient imbalance in the food.Sub to my diary and watch me nail another grow in those EC ranges...haha!
I'll be doing a final write up sooner than later. I've been busy.Hi, what is the final result
That's basically what I do except I use foliage pro instead of Grow. These days I start out with roughly a 1:4 FP/Bloom and move to 100% bloom after the stretch. If the plants need more N then I'll add a touch of FP to the mix. I also use floralicious+ throughout. I've also messed with adding potassium sulfate to my mix and some potassium silicate with good results.I've been growing for 9 years. I started with GH, then tried some Heavy 16 and liked the results, but before I could switch over, I got put on an out-of-town work assignment, and only get to see my girls every other weekend, so I wasn't about to deal with the Heavy 16 soup in my dwc when I only do maintenance every 14 days. So I got garbage cans, float valves and timers, and set up clean-water reservoirs to replace used water. In a system of about 15 gal that feeds 4 plants/buckets, I use 150 ml micro, 300 ml bloom, 60 ml Liquid Koolbloom, and 40 ml calmag. I use a little less at the beginning of veg hydro (my early veg is in dirt), and a little less at the end of flower, also switching to 20g of the powder Koolbloom and eliminate cal/mag at the end of flower. I never measure any EC or pH unless I think I made a mistake, then I'll check EC. I still grow what people tell me is some of the best they've ever seen, but part of that is my trimming. Now the laws are changing and I'm starting to do research again, and I found the Dyna Gro vs. AN thread, and now this one. I want to switch to DG, but obviously I can't watch and react to my plants needs very often, so I want to follow the exact receipe for hydro in terms of grow/bloom, additives, and EC that Homebrewer uses. From reading until my eyes got foggy, I gather it is about 1-1.2 EC max, starting bloom at about 50/50 ratio and then leaning out to 1:4 grow/bloom, then eliminating bloom and adding Floralicious additive at the end, with no flush. Is that about right?
Do you gradually go from just FP to the 1:4 ratio after flipping?That's basically what I do except I use foliage pro instead of Grow. These days I start out with roughly a 1:4 FP/Bloom and move to 100% bloom after the stretch. If the plants need more N then I'll add a touch of FP to the mix. I also use floralicious+ throughout. I've also messed with adding potassium sulfate to my mix and some potassium silicate with good results.
What you use in terms of bacteria control? Meaning like uc roots so on!That's basically what I do except I use foliage pro instead of Grow. These days I start out with roughly a 1:4 FP/Bloom and move to 100% bloom after the stretch. If the plants need more N then I'll add a touch of FP to the mix. I also use floralicious+ throughout. I've also messed with adding potassium sulfate to my mix and some potassium silicate with good results.
Thanks. I have a group just 2 weeks into the cycle,and found a local hydro store with the nutes in-stock, so next weekend I'll flip them and I'll let you know how it turns out. Michigan Magic is the strain (clone-only,) aka Roadrunner, but not the autoflower strain that you can buy seeds for.That's basically what I do except I use foliage pro instead of Grow. These days I start out with roughly a 1:4 FP/Bloom and move to 100% bloom after the stretch. If the plants need more N then I'll add a touch of FP to the mix. I also use floralicious+ throughout. I've also messed with adding potassium sulfate to my mix and some potassium silicate with good results.
Nothing. I personally don't have an issue with blooms or growths in my reservoirs.What you use in terms of bacteria control? Meaning like uc roots so on!
No Orca/ Great White? really?Nothing. I personally don't have an issue with blooms or growths in my reservoirs.
Brand of what?If you had to pick one brand that is widely available, which brand would you pick for Ebb & Flow?
You tested so much in all these years.
I use GW when putting cuts into rockwool but nothing goes in my res. If someone is having issues with growth in their res then bennies can be a great way to control them.No Orca/ Great White? really?
NutrientsBrand of what?
I can say he probably would recc’ dynagro. To be more specific dynagro foliage pro.Nutrients
Doesn't really matter what you use. They all contain the same stuff at different ratios. I'm getting tired of everyone blaming their complete plant food instead of themselves. Learn what different NPK ratios do instead and how they affect growth pattern. Concentration, price+VAT and shipping is what I go by when ordering nutrients.Nutrients
I like DynaGro's Foliage pro and bloom because they're very concentrated and don't need supplementation. Those two bottles give me the versatility and ease of use that I want for peat and hydro. As others have stated though, brands don't matter. What really matters is the ratio and amounts of the elements contained within the bottles. As Uncle Ben would say, you can get unbelievable results from plant foods sold at WalMart as long as you know what to buy and how to use it.Nutrients
Hi, what is the final result
Drum is beating louderMegaCrop crushed it this round which just goes to show there are many good options out there.