Mega Crop vs Dyna-Gro comparison grow

Will MegaCrop hit the 19-20oz yield benchmark?

  • Yes

    Votes: 21 63.6%
  • No

    Votes: 7 21.2%
  • This shit is biased as hell!

    Votes: 5 15.2%

  • Total voters
    33
  • Poll closed .

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
your plants are showing early signs of the same thing, dude. jheeze.
The same 'early signs' of a 'deficiency' at harvest, after they've been fed the same food at the same EC for the previous 9 weeks? lol :wall:

This is going nowhere. there are clearly more experienced, wiser minds i could pick.
What you're really looking for is someone that'll agree that it's the plant food's fault and not yours.

Sub to my diary and watch me nail another grow in those EC ranges...haha!
No one is saying that you're not doing a good job. What I'm saying is that you're an idiot for cherry-picking single leaves thinking there is some sort of systemic issue caused by a nutrient imbalance in the food.
 

ghbond

Active Member
I've been growing for 9 years. I started with GH, then tried some Heavy 16 and liked the results, but before I could switch over, I got put on an out-of-town work assignment, and only get to see my girls every other weekend, so I wasn't about to deal with the Heavy 16 soup in my dwc when I only do maintenance every 14 days. So I got garbage cans, float valves and timers, and set up clean-water reservoirs to replace used water. In a system of about 15 gal that feeds 4 plants/buckets, I use 150 ml micro, 300 ml bloom, 60 ml Liquid Koolbloom, and 40 ml calmag. I use a little less at the beginning of veg hydro (my early veg is in dirt), and a little less at the end of flower, also switching to 20g of the powder Koolbloom and eliminate cal/mag at the end of flower. I never measure any EC or pH unless I think I made a mistake, then I'll check EC. I still grow what people tell me is some of the best they've ever seen, but part of that is my trimming. Now the laws are changing and I'm starting to do research again, and I found the Dyna Gro vs. AN thread, and now this one. I want to switch to DG, but obviously I can't watch and react to my plants needs very often, so I want to follow the exact receipe for hydro in terms of grow/bloom, additives, and EC that Homebrewer uses. From reading until my eyes got foggy, I gather it is about 1-1.2 EC max, starting bloom at about 50/50 ratio and then leaning out to 1:4 grow/bloom, then eliminating bloom and adding Floralicious additive at the end, with no flush. Is that about right?
 

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
I've been growing for 9 years. I started with GH, then tried some Heavy 16 and liked the results, but before I could switch over, I got put on an out-of-town work assignment, and only get to see my girls every other weekend, so I wasn't about to deal with the Heavy 16 soup in my dwc when I only do maintenance every 14 days. So I got garbage cans, float valves and timers, and set up clean-water reservoirs to replace used water. In a system of about 15 gal that feeds 4 plants/buckets, I use 150 ml micro, 300 ml bloom, 60 ml Liquid Koolbloom, and 40 ml calmag. I use a little less at the beginning of veg hydro (my early veg is in dirt), and a little less at the end of flower, also switching to 20g of the powder Koolbloom and eliminate cal/mag at the end of flower. I never measure any EC or pH unless I think I made a mistake, then I'll check EC. I still grow what people tell me is some of the best they've ever seen, but part of that is my trimming. Now the laws are changing and I'm starting to do research again, and I found the Dyna Gro vs. AN thread, and now this one. I want to switch to DG, but obviously I can't watch and react to my plants needs very often, so I want to follow the exact receipe for hydro in terms of grow/bloom, additives, and EC that Homebrewer uses. From reading until my eyes got foggy, I gather it is about 1-1.2 EC max, starting bloom at about 50/50 ratio and then leaning out to 1:4 grow/bloom, then eliminating bloom and adding Floralicious additive at the end, with no flush. Is that about right?
That's basically what I do except I use foliage pro instead of Grow. These days I start out with roughly a 1:4 FP/Bloom and move to 100% bloom after the stretch. If the plants need more N then I'll add a touch of FP to the mix. I also use floralicious+ throughout. I've also messed with adding potassium sulfate to my mix and some potassium silicate with good results.
 

iShatterBladderz

Well-Known Member
That's basically what I do except I use foliage pro instead of Grow. These days I start out with roughly a 1:4 FP/Bloom and move to 100% bloom after the stretch. If the plants need more N then I'll add a touch of FP to the mix. I also use floralicious+ throughout. I've also messed with adding potassium sulfate to my mix and some potassium silicate with good results.
Do you gradually go from just FP to the 1:4 ratio after flipping?
 

Indoorpro

Well-Known Member
That's basically what I do except I use foliage pro instead of Grow. These days I start out with roughly a 1:4 FP/Bloom and move to 100% bloom after the stretch. If the plants need more N then I'll add a touch of FP to the mix. I also use floralicious+ throughout. I've also messed with adding potassium sulfate to my mix and some potassium silicate with good results.
What you use in terms of bacteria control? Meaning like uc roots so on!
 

ghbond

Active Member
That's basically what I do except I use foliage pro instead of Grow. These days I start out with roughly a 1:4 FP/Bloom and move to 100% bloom after the stretch. If the plants need more N then I'll add a touch of FP to the mix. I also use floralicious+ throughout. I've also messed with adding potassium sulfate to my mix and some potassium silicate with good results.
Thanks. I have a group just 2 weeks into the cycle,and found a local hydro store with the nutes in-stock, so next weekend I'll flip them and I'll let you know how it turns out. Michigan Magic is the strain (clone-only,) aka Roadrunner, but not the autoflower strain that you can buy seeds for.
 

Keesje

Well-Known Member
@homebrewer
If you had to pick one brand that is widely available, which brand would you pick for Ebb & Flow?
You tested so much in all these years.
 

GrowRijt

Well-Known Member
Nutrients
I can say he probably would recc’ dynagro. To be more specific dynagro foliage pro.

if you are fairly new to growing, or just like simplicity choose pro mix soil and foliage pro start to finish. One nutrient end to end. Done. I have personally followed many of these tests and tested myself along the way. I am fairly cost conscious and don’t like to work to hard. I recently added DG bloom and green planet bud explosion at certain intervals for fun just to tweak my recipe.
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
Nutrients
Doesn't really matter what you use. They all contain the same stuff at different ratios. I'm getting tired of everyone blaming their complete plant food instead of themselves. Learn what different NPK ratios do instead and how they affect growth pattern. Concentration, price+VAT and shipping is what I go by when ordering nutrients.

Believe it or not every nutrient brand use the same stuff in their formula. If you want a pH stable solution you need to use a potassium silicate product to get optimal cation exchange. I order "water glass" locally which contains 30% potassium silicate for the cheaps.
 
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homebrewer

Well-Known Member
Nutrients
I like DynaGro's Foliage pro and bloom because they're very concentrated and don't need supplementation. Those two bottles give me the versatility and ease of use that I want for peat and hydro. As others have stated though, brands don't matter. What really matters is the ratio and amounts of the elements contained within the bottles. As Uncle Ben would say, you can get unbelievable results from plant foods sold at WalMart as long as you know what to buy and how to use it.

As I mentioned though, I like DynaGro. They make complete one-part foods that are definitely on the cheaper end of the spectrum. You can't beat their ease of use and when used properly they're one of the best performing foods on the market. I'll suggest them to new growers because they're complete. If they're seeing plant issues they can rule out the food as the culprit. I'd also recommend DG to advanced growers too. In all fairness, and the results are coming soon, MegaCrop crushed it this round which just goes to show there are many good options out there.

Here's a quick story to reiterate the fact that brands don't matter: About 6 months ago I ran out of DynaGro bloom as I was just starting a flowering cycle in my hydro trays. Local stores don't carry DynaGro which means ordering bottles would have delayed flowering by a week. So I looked at what I had sitting around, mentally adding up and checking off the elements supplied in the different products that I had on the shelf. I wound up using GenHydro's Micro (5-0-1) for nitrogen and most of the micro nutrients, DG's Magpro (2-15-4) for the phosphorous and magnesium, and some dry potassium sulfate for exactly those two elements. And when I ran out of DG's Magpro at week 6 I then switched to Botanicare's Hydroplex (0-10-6). All added up and tweaked based on concentrations, I had all the essentials needed for healthy growth. That round was flawless, as expected, because the plants were getting all the essentials in the ratios that I know work.
 
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Nizza

Well-Known Member
I like dyna gro too homebrewer. Someday when i get to hydro I bet ill grab a bottle of the foliage pro

Alot of people have leaf issues I get it too sometimes and what it comes down to is plant moisture stress

When you underwater, salinity in the grow medium increases. This can cause stress and leaf damage. Over-watering decreases the salinity and can be bad, but is hard to do once things are growing fast.

If you underwater, then overwater, your roots that died off are now very moist possibly causing a bit of root rot . Some people don't water their pots evenly and can experience this, and it shows up on your leaves.

It is hard to balance watering sometimes when the seasons change, and sometimes it is simply because a fan is blowing too much air on the pots. Alot of growers use plastic buckets with only holes in the bottoms to avoid fans from drying out the mediums

Hope this helps some people get back to the basics.. I have tried alot of nutrients and it is hard to get deficiencies unless the pH is swinging from over/under watering nd locking things out or if the roots are being burnt from underwatering
 
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