ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I'm right about there for my 24ft^2 trellis panels... each.Right on. I thought that $1,600 was high enough for my 5x5
Yeah, I'm right about there for my 24ft^2 trellis panels... each.Right on. I thought that $1,600 was high enough for my 5x5
Wow WTF? You drop that new light on us then leave. There is going to be a bunch of unsatisfied guy with woodies around till the 21st.im on vacation see u guys 6/21.
Good times?im on vacation see u guys 6/21.
I was wondering about Mammoth P myself , so any info would be helpful Growmau5Good times?
Bro i checked out your vid where you show a grow where some plants got mammothp and some didnt. Then you added mammothp to the not havez and they caught up in like a day or two.
Is that rapid growth attributed to microbial action? I thought that it would take some time for biology to grow and have an impact.
Whats your understanding of how it was effective so quickly.
Appreciate.
I'd think you'd wanna use around 30watts a square foot. So 60 watts by however many watts whichever model you decide to buy gives you the amount you'd need.Hi Maus and others. Hope this is the right place to post this but feel free to redireect me if not.
Have been listening to your tech talks with greengenes and robin on youtube with great interest. All of you suggest that, rather than use a single point source of light (e.g.250 watt hps) it's better to more evenly distribute photons by using what amounts to several point sources (e.g. 4 cobs running at 50 watts a piece). Robin also mentions though, he believes, not only should the light be diffuse or distributed in this way, but that each point source should have a certain amount of intensity (or ppfd) to be maximally beneficial.
As a newbie and wannabe builder, interested purely in micro growing, I'ev been lookng at various cxb models, finding the best bins I can for those models and thinking how I would best cover an area of 17 x 17 inches (marginally over 2 square feet). I want to factor into this the points you lot made as much as possible. So, can you tell me the optimal range of ppfd I would want from each source point and, if you can, translate this into a roughish estimation of lumens for 3000/3500K cobs? In that way I hope to be able to work out the best number of cobs to go with e.g. should I have 4 producing, for example, 4000 lumens each or 16 producing 1000 each.
Hope I'm not being a nuisance and asking too much.
On a side note, I thought the section on the best Kelvin range was really fascinating. As I understood it 3000 - 4000K is most useful because, apart from considertions of spectrum, above that, you lose photons due to shorter wavelength "blue" photons being more energetic (so you get brighter to the human eye lights that produce less photon yield than lower energy. shorter wavelengths) and below that (2700K) the phosphor that is used to redden the light and, you would imagine therefore, produce more photons, lowers the efficiency of the LEDs sufficiently to decrease the photon yield. And photon yield is all imprtant because the plant uses nearly all wavelengths in the visible spectrum with equal efficiency i.e. it doesn't care if it's a high energy "blue" photon or a lower energy "red" photon, it does the same thing with it. Is that about right? Makes a big difference to my understanding if it is!
i just stumbled upon it last night, but thank you for linking it for everyone. I like the video maker's style and he seems qualified and credible to give us a very nice comparison.Thought youd be interested in this @Growmau5 (and anybody else playing) as you bought to my attention the ChilLED productz
You've probably seen it....
you are fine, welcome to my thread and this forum! And thanks for watching and supporting me, Robin & GG.Hi Maus and others. Hope this is the right place to post this but feel free to redireect me if not.
Have been listening to your tech talks with greengenes and robin on youtube with great interest. All of you suggest that, rather than use a single point source of light (e.g.250 watt hps) it's better to more evenly distribute photons by using what amounts to several point sources (e.g. 4 cobs running at 50 watts a piece). Robin also mentions though, he believes, not only should the light be diffuse or distributed in this way, but that each point source should have a certain amount of intensity (or ppfd) to be maximally beneficial.
As a newbie and wannabe builder, interested purely in micro growing, I'ev been lookng at various cxb models, finding the best bins I can for those models and thinking how I would best cover an area of 17 x 17 inches (marginally over 2 square feet). I want to factor into this the points you lot made as much as possible. So, can you tell me the optimal range of ppfd I would want from each source point and, if you can, translate this into a roughish estimation of lumens for 3000/3500K cobs? In that way I hope to be able to work out the best number of cobs to go with e.g. should I have 4 producing, for example, 4000 lumens each or 16 producing 1000 each.
Hope I'm not being a nuisance and asking too much.
On a side note, I thought the section on the best Kelvin range was really fascinating. As I understood it 3000 - 4000K is most useful because, apart from considertions of spectrum, above that, you lose photons due to shorter wavelength "blue" photons being more energetic (so you get brighter to the human eye lights that produce less photon yield than lower energy. shorter wavelengths) and below that (2700K) the phosphor that is used to redden the light and, you would imagine therefore, produce more photons, lowers the efficiency of the LEDs sufficiently to decrease the photon yield. And photon yield is all imprtant because the plant uses nearly all wavelengths in the visible spectrum with equal efficiency i.e. it doesn't care if it's a high energy "blue" photon or a lower energy "red" photon, it does the same thing with it. Is that about right? Makes a big difference to my understanding if it is!
if your using a 3500K you can skip the 620-630nm monos. I believe the spd GG showed is for a 4000K phosphor plus 620 plus 660s.Alternatively: a single cob build would work as well. a 72v cree cxb3590 3500k run at 700-800ma in series connection with:
(1) 450nm mono
(1) 620-630nm mono
(2) 660nm monos
would allow you to have a simple build on one driver.
If you use the pressure sensitive graphite TIM & the solderless top bin stars from Cutter Electronics, you could put this together in an hour+
* how many volts would you need for the driver...72 + 3 + 2.5 + 2.5 + 2.5= 82.5v @ 7-800ma should get it done.
nice catch. i agree with you 100%. 4k with the monos & a single 420nm to fatten that end. cheersif your using a 3500K you can skip the 620-630nm monos. I believe the spd GG showed is for a 4000K phosphor plus 620 plus 660s.
I'm now using 420 nm supplementals instead of royal blues too widen the spectrum. but that's just me.
if your using a 3500K you can skip the 620-630nm monos. I believe the spd GG showed is for a 4000K phosphor plus 620 plus 660s.
I'm now using 420 nm supplementals instead of royal blues too widen the spectrum. but that's just me.
It is a 4K base in what I show publically. Worked with it for a about a year and have changed the base since. I have voiced my dislike for 4K many times. It doesn't do anything superior IME. Up or down in K...you always want 630's.nice catch. i agree with you 100%. 4k with the monos & a single 420nm to fatten that end. cheers
absolutely, that's why I look for the absolute minimal to supplement a warm white base. The 3500K base seems to provide that (supplement with only a bit of short wavelengths 360 - 420 blues and a bit of 660). I learned the hard way how much better the apache red (630s)/cool white is better than the illumitex red(660s)/white.The enhanced spectrums are great and make you feel like nasa botanist. But cost much more to implement a configuration that compares to PPF from pure whites currently.
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right on, cree doesn't exactly make their diode comparison apples to apples. I see some spreadsheeting in my future to get all this shit right at various binning conditions.@Growmau5 I'm not sure where the fuck I got xt-e's being binned at 700ma...probably from when I used to compare them to 219's. XT-E's are binned at 350ma just like all the xpg's. The g3's having higher bins in everything.
WOW, Growmau5 your Canopy10 is Awesome! Really looking forward to seeing her in action! Great live stream the other day. You always give so much great information on DIY and I really appreciate it.right on, cree doesn't exactly make their diode comparison apples to apples. I see some spreadsheeting in my future to get all this shit right at various binning conditions.
on another note: CANOPY10 lives!
View attachment 3718617
cobs are only at 10% for the photo.
should I make a separate thread about this detailing every bolt and washer with the GrabCad.com files in case anyone wants to duplicate it?
Errr YES YOU SHOULD!!right on, cree doesn't exactly make their diode comparison apples to apples. I see some spreadsheeting in my future to get all this shit right at various binning conditions.
on another note: CANOPY10 lives!
should I make a separate thread about this detailing every bolt and washer with the GrabCad.com files in case anyone wants to duplicate it?