Mau5Capades: builds & grow journal

Growmau5 said:

hey man, you seem like a nice guy and I enjoy your posts. I just don't want my thread filled up with all this green light talk. I would enjoy reading about it and reading your perspectives and experiments, but I would be more interested in doing that in the appropriate thread.

I am all down for some good ole fashioned lighting science talk. But this isnt a catch all thread. we have those, like these:

https://www.rollitup.org/t/cob-talk.906852/
https://www.rollitup.org/t/lets-talk-about-other-cobs.908494/
https://www.rollitup.org/t/why-do-some-guys-wats-to-still-use-mono-led-with-cobs.889223/page-28#post-12568209

@Airwalker16 @SoOLED @coreywebster that goes for you guys too. I like you guys, I like your comments and the discussion & I want to have it with you. But I would like to do it in the right place.

cheers.

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Yeah fair enough. You just don't post much here so it tends to degenerate to random chit-chat after a while. Actually I just won't post in your threads at all anymore. Even better, right?

PurpleBuz said:

really ? your not that dumb are you ? the petiole length perfectly matches what is need to harvest the most photons from the sun.

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You'll be happy to know that at this point I have become at ease with your inability to be polite, interact with any social grace, or appreciate dry humor. I am sincerely sorry that you have to go through life missing wit, social cues, and the love of a good woman, so I will take the higher ground and let your continued rudeness pass without comment.

@Growmau5 Sorry.

Growmau5 said:

I'm starting a new chapter in my flowering room and building a new setup. I wanted to start this thread to have a place to show my projects while following along with my latest grow.

Grow space: 4' x 10'
Dissipation: ~1200w for 30 watts/sqft
mostly CXA3070 AD, mixed 3k & 4K run @ 1400mA

Strains Mattman's Payday, Grape Stomper13, Sin City Sin Mint, Sin City Tangerine Power, La Blanca (white strain), La Plata Labs: Sour Pez. 18 plants total in 5 gallon nursery pots.

I have really enjoyed building "fixtures" with multiple drivers, heatsinks, frames, enclosures. These lights work great for most purposes but lack the flexibility I am looking for in my flowering room. The concept of modular LEDs is by no means new. SupraSPL's modular COB diy thread from over a year ago was among the first places I went to research DIY LEDs. The simplicity and flexibility of this type of system has a lot of merits that I hope to showcase in this journal. Here are some pictures of the build as it stands right now, I'll have everything done, hung, and growing plants in the next few days.

Cheers
Growmau5

View attachment 3482963 View attachment 3482966 View attachment 3482967

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what happen to these units? pretty =þ

SoOLED said:

what happen to these units? pretty =þ

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Some of them are gutted for parts.

I've got some MAU-FAILS for you guys. Hours and hours of researching anodizing aluminum & a little bit invested.

-first attempt (LEFT) : utter fail. I tried anodizing this plate in a 5 gallon bucket & used a cathode plate that was too small. Didn't do much at all.

-second attempt (RIGHT) : less fail, but not uniform. I wish I had done a better job sanding , polishing , and cleaning the plate. It would have turned out ok. I'll update and do a quick tutorial thread once I have something decent to show.

@pop22 Did I do something to piss you off? why are you spamming my thread dredging up a conversation from a week ago, that I asked these guys politely to take elsewhere.

can you please delete this clutter.

I apologize as I was reading I got caught up in the topic.

Growmau5 said:

@pop22 Did I do something to piss you off? why are you spamming my thread dredging up a conversation from a week ago, that I asked these guys politely to take elsewhere.

can you please delete this clutter.

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@Growmau5, do you find the meanwell 1400b is hotter to touch running 4 cbx 3590 than one running 4 3070's? I have the 3590's driver remotely mounted and it's hot to touch. The 3070's driver is mounted as you did in the cutter kit vid. It is warm at best. Is the airflow and the angle aluminum helping to cool the driver or is it just the chips being smaller? Same drive current just different chips and mounting.

CoB_nUt said:

@Growmau5, do you find the meanwell 1400b is hotter to touch running 4 cbx 3590 than one running 4 3070's? I have the 3590's driver remotely mounted and it's hot to touch. The 3070's driver is mounted as you did in the cutter kit vid. It is warm at best. Is the airflow and the angle aluminum helping to cool the driver or is it just the chips being smaller? Same drive current just different chips and mounting.

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same voltage and current, i would suspect it to run the same temp. the only variable would be mounting position. its a free air convection cooled driver, so if a person wanted the optimal mounting position, it would be vertical straight up in the air like a gavita or epapillllllon.

-second attempt (RIGHT) : less fail, but not uniform. I wish I had done a better job sanding , polishing , and cleaning the plate. It would have turned out ok. I'll update and do a quick tutorial thread once I have something decent to show.
View attachment 3683369[/QUOTE]

How many $$ has that anodising cost you Growmau5? Taking out the experimental and fails.

coreywebster said:

-second attempt (RIGHT) : less fail, but not uniform. I wish I had done a better job sanding , polishing , and cleaning the plate. It would have turned out ok. I'll update and do a quick tutorial thread once I have something decent to show.
View attachment 3683369

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How many $$ has that anodising cost you Growmau5? Taking out the experimental and fails.[/QUOTE]
so far I have
$22 into the battery acid Electrolyte from O'Reilley auto parts
$50 into a battery charger (not optimal) dc constant current power supply being optimal
$7 into the plastic tub
$10 worth of fabric dye (not optimal, but cheap)
$free scrap 6061 aluminum for the cathode plate
So around $100 for a setup following YouTube instructions

Growmau5 said:

How many $$ has that anodising cost you Growmau5? Taking out the experimental and fails.

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so far I have
$22 into the battery acid Electrolyte from O'Reilley auto parts
$50 into a battery charger (not optimal) dc constant current power supply being optimal
$7 into the plastic tub
$10 worth of fabric dye (not optimal, but cheap)
$free scrap 6061 aluminum for the cathode plate
So around $100 for a setup following YouTube instructions[/QUOTE]
you do stay busy. Before I got divorced, I had a nice shop setup, build motorcycles from scratch. Shop is in storage waiting for the next spot to open up now. Divorce destroyed my finances. I find small local shops to do powder coating, anodizing, and chrome work cheap. Like you, I create friendships, and share. I am an ok welder, I weld motorcycle parts to frames including engines, I guess I am better than ok. lol. I have not lost a part yet. I did lose a micro light from my from end, bracket broke from vibration, thin metal. other than that fail is NOT an option on some things. Iove your work ethic. If I did not already have lights up and running, I would get with you first. I have found the Far Red seems to be maturing my crop quicker than I am expecting by almost a week now. impressive. the knowledge is here, you just gotta grasp it and massage it. peace.

@VegasWinner
I wish I had a clone man, I want to build an electric 356 Speedster kit on a vw chassis and a some kind of cafe racer bike, if I could find the time and money.

on the Far red topic. I just started using some 730nm cheap ass Epistars that I got on clearance from Steve's led. After reading a bit more about PR & PFR, i think the Cree XP-E are going to be my choice in the future. they can handle 1000ma and go to 740nm.
-my observations are only based on 14 days of flowering but so far I have noticed:
flowering day 9: looks like pictures of past grows without Far red at day 12-13
Today: flowering day 15: looks like bud site developement I am used to seeing around day 18-19.

Growmau5 said:

I've got some MAU-FAILS for you guys. Hours and hours of researching anodizing aluminum & a little bit invested.

-first attempt (LEFT) : utter fail. I tried anodizing this plate in a 5 gallon bucket & used a cathode plate that was too small. Didn't do much at all.

-second attempt (RIGHT) : less fail, but not uniform. I wish I had done a better job sanding , polishing , and cleaning the plate. It would have turned out ok. I'll update and do a quick tutorial thread once I have something decent to show.
View attachment 3683369

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Something looked so familiar about these plates, kept thinking I've seen them before. Then I figured it out. Are you Tony Stark?

The Green Griffin said:

Something looked so familiar about these plates, kept thinking I've seen them before. Then I figured it out. Are you Tony Stark?

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He is...

ANODIZED ALUMINUM MAN!

Growmau5 said:

@Growmau5
I wish I had a clone man, I want to build an electric 356 Speedster kit on a vw chassis and a some kind of cafe racer bike, if I could find the time and money.

on the Far red topic. I just started using some 730nm cheap ass Epistars that I got on clearance from Steve's led. After reading a bit more about PR & PFR, i think the Cree XP-E are going to be my choice in the future. they can handle 1000ma and go to 740nm.
-my observations are only based on 14 days of flowering but so far I have noticed:
flowering day 9: looks like pictures of past grows without Far red at day 12-13
Today: flowering day 15: looks like bud site developement I am used to seeing around day 18-19.

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Hi, how many far red diodes are you using and what is your on/off timing?
Do you have somewhere information and photos of this round or your last one se2 ep3?
Thankx for your reply.

Growmau5 said:

@VegasWinner
I wish I had a clone man, I want to build an electric 356 Speedster kit on a vw chassis and a some kind of cafe racer bike, if I could find the time and money.

on the Far red topic. I just started using some 730nm cheap ass Epistars that I got on clearance from Steve's led. After reading a bit more about PR & PFR, i think the Cree XP-E are going to be my choice in the future. they can handle 1000ma and go to 740nm.
-my observations are only based on 14 days of flowering but so far I have noticed:
flowering day 9: looks like pictures of past grows without Far red at day 12-13
Today: flowering day 15: looks like bud site developement I am used to seeing around day 18-19.

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Assume you are using the far red initiator from your video build..... Just one unit for the 4x10 area or multiples? Fascinated with the uvb, green light and far red impact on plant growth - exactly what these wavelengths trigger, and how much of each is needed to maximize a plant's 'happiness' (or to maximize yield/potency) without adverse effects or wasting KWH. Very clear that plants use a much wider spectrum than what is needed expressly for photosynthesis, can't wait to start testing! So many variables....... So much fun!

Growmau5, I've been watching your You tube videos and reading whatever I can find about your builds and I just rejoined RIU just to be able To ask you a few questions. Hope all is good. First of all, what are your thoughts on running at 1750 instead of 1400. I read somewhere that you'd be willing to sacrifice the efficiency for more par watts (i think is what you said) my question is why aren't you designing a kit running at 1750 as well as 1400? And if you did what components would you use? I ask because I am trying to learn as much as I can and I think I want to run mine at 1750 or maybe even 2100. The efficiency isn't really what I'm after. I'm more interested in the cooler running lights since I'm in the hottest state there is and I battle heat every summer. I'm considering the iceled 550 for heatsinks right now but would like to hear your opinion on the matter. Thanks in advance for any input.

Scrtsqrl said:

Growmau5, I've been watching your You tube videos and reading whatever I can find about your builds and I just rejoined RIU just to be able To ask you a few questions. Hope all is good. First of all, what are your thoughts on running at 1750 instead of 1400. I read somewhere that you'd be willing to sacrifice the efficiency for more par watts (i think is what you said) my question is why aren't you designing a kit running at 1750 as well as 1400? And if you did what components would you use? I ask because I am trying to learn as much as I can and I think I want to run mine at 1750 or maybe even 2100. The efficiency isn't really what I'm after. I'm more interested in the cooler running lights since I'm in the hottest state there is and I battle heat every summer. I'm considering the iceled 550 for heatsinks right now but would like to hear your opinion on the matter. Thanks in advance for any input.

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Not Growmau5 but if you are concerned with heat you want to run LESS amperage not more. Limiting heat means you have to be concerned with efficiency .

^^^ correct.
You wanna use more cobs on say... a 700ma driver