Olive Drab Green
Well-Known Member
Gotcha. My bad.Sorry brother I was responding to the post before yours suggesting I should ignore the eBay light recommendation (still no offense to that recommendation just looking for something solid)
Gotcha. My bad.Sorry brother I was responding to the post before yours suggesting I should ignore the eBay light recommendation (still no offense to that recommendation just looking for something solid)
Those Samsung boards are priced well and I would stick with them.Are there any other quality QBs I can look at in the 135W range or is $200 about as low as I can go without buying cheap shit?
Mature? Probably within a couple of inches. While still young, keep them 12-18” away. I’ve had my plants grow into my COBs within 2-3 inches without burn before. Just a couple bleach spots here and there.How close can my plants safely get to the QB?
Probably. Either way, it won’t matter. Both are fairly cool. Especially in comparison with HIDs.Last question, will the 135W QB run cooler than the 300W LED off eBay that I currently have?
I was going to say, general rule of thumb I follow is 600w HPS is about 900-1200 PPFD. 1000w HPS is about 1800-2200 PPFD.Lumens can determine efficiency of the light, and if the color CRI is calibrated for plant growing, then you can be pretty sure youre getting a ton of PAR.
While info is hard to find on the Hortilux HPS, its putting out 1600+ PAR and 145,000 lumens.
The Phillips 1000w DE Bulb is 2100 PAR and 166,000 lumens.
I was going to say, general rule of thumb I follow is 600w HPS is about 900-1200 PPFD. 1000w HPS is about 1800-2200 PPFD.
Without dimming keep them 18 inch from plants in full flower, you could go to 12" but would have to test it as different strains will react differently. With seedlings just dim it and you can go close but on full power keep the distance greater.How close can my plants safely get to the QB?
Issue is my current 300W LED is making my box too hot and I'm trying not to increase my fan noise so the reason I was going to go with the 135W QB was to reduce heat. Hoping it would run about half as hot due to half the wattage. If its a wash then the upgrade isn't necessary at this time for this one time experiment, I will need to figure out better exhaust.Probably. Either way, it won’t matter. Both are fairly cool. Especially in comparison with HIDs.
No one’s trying to make you mad, but 385 PPFD isn’t going to do shit for you, bro. Spectrum doesn’t make up for PAR. PAR is the spectrum. If you don’t have a high PPFD, your photons in the PAR spectrum are what your PPFD is. PAR Spectrum = Measured in PPFD. 385 is less than 50% productivity and will probably just barely veg at all. You also will not be able to cover 5 square feet at 12”. If you manage to get your footprint to 5sq.ft. your PPFD will be completely ineffective.Guys I ain't mad. I just tried to get the best light I could afford. Also I wanted to try selective spectrum LEDs, to see if there was any real science to the whole Red-Blue-No Green thing.
I know all about the CP-PAR-Lux-Lumens ratings, I just can't afford a PAR meter. I just figured that the LED spectrum selected should eliminate the PAR/Broad Spectrum issue. If nothing else It will get my plants ( 2 or 3) through VEG and I can put a QB in for flower, later after I pay my property taxes.
Also,I knew that the light will have to be closer than 16" to get the PAR I need. Fortunately the light's angle of projection will allow me to get about 8-12" and still cover my ~five sq Ft. My grow will be trying to get the most from the least, via LEDs for heat control and Scrogging to max production per sqft.
I was trying in my initial post to answer the OP's question about a small cabinet. 28" isn't much height and a factory light isn't made for such a grow. For his grow a 135 watt QB would be fine, if he could afford it.
Yes, do that. QBs, COBs, and EB/F strips all list actual wattage consumption. His 250w light, which falsely claims the intensity of 1500w, is typical Chinese marketing bullshit. A 1000w HPS puts out about 1800-2200 PPFD in a 3x3, roughly. His 250w LED puts out 385 PPFD. Clearly not a 1500w equivalent.How about dis? Ideal flower footprint is 2x1.5' (24x18=432") my footprint is 21x21=441" with a max of 2x2' which is more than plenty. This might be both cooler (high hopes...no pun), $20 cheaper, and more energy efficient. Is the 100W actual wattage or is that the rating of the light?
https://growerslights.com/collections/led-grow-lights-flower-footprint-2-x-2/products/horticulture-lighting-group-100-watt-quantum-board-led-kit
It’s from TastyLED’s website, but it’s common knowledge.ODG:
I'd like to read the article where you got that chart. It looks like the article would answer a lot of questions, such as the spectral/intensity needed for Cannabis. If you have a link please give it to me.
If this "1500 watt" light doesn't work I will use my 2'x4' 8 lamp TO5 fixture (~500 watts). I got ~600 gms from it the last time I grew, and that wasn't even LST'd, much less scrogged.
I'd like to continue our discussion but rather than clog up this thread. Respond to my thread:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/getting-started-in-a-calif-6x-aeroponics-led-grow.956319/
Stickyfly:
I didn't mean to jack your thread. If heat is your problem larger vents and maybe computer fans can help. I got an 80 mm three speed fan for my cloning tub ( 12"x20"x14") that moves a good amount of air and is pretty quiet at the lowest setting. You'll need a 12 volt wall wart to run computer fans, but a couple will not run more than ~500 mAmps @12v.
That’s because it defies physics and biology. Ergo, he’s either newb-ignorant, or he’s knowingly talking out of his ass.21 ounces of dry bud from less than 500W T5 in a 2 x 4? I find that hard to believe.