LED Without LEDs -My First T5 Grow
- Thread starter pr0fesseur
- Start date
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
One of his test grows showed a pic of 6-8 root systems. it appears he added a bunch of pics and I don't have the time to dig through them all, but look for that: it talks about IR
hyroot
Well-Known Member
These are me razzleberries. 6 days left. Look at these donkays. Still no flora suns to replace the burned out ones in the og 8 bulb. They're sitting a my buddies and he is out of town. Yaaaaahhhhhh. But theres only 4 sog here. So since too many coral waves. Moved one to position 1. Then 2 redsuns in 3 , 5 and coral wave in 4 ,6 and the rest fiji n flora suns yesterday. So the girls are chillin directly under the redsuns and coral waves. I swear they swelled up at least 25% since yesterday. So keep your resdsuns and coral waves next to each other.
Theres 2 bubbas in the back of pics only at 3 weeks though. In 2 gal home made air root bags. Hehe lol.
When I get bulbs this weekend. It will be
flora sun / coral wave / redsun / flora sun / flora sun / redsun / coral wave / flora sun.
Taking led approach now and moving IR ( cw ) towards outside.
Dare I say I will be adding a 276 true watt led. 3w x 120. Apollo 8 / Cidly to the room. Hopefully it will be here sooner than later. Its coming from China and that will be per orb (8 orbs)
5 Red 660nm (90 degree)
3 Red 650-670nm (90 degree)
2 Red 630-640nm (90 degree)
1 Orange 610-615nm (90 degree)
1 Blue 450-470nm (90 degree)
1 Blue 420-430nm (90 degree)
1 White 10,000K (90 degree)
1 White 2700K (90 degree)
I wasnt sure about adding IR to led its at 730nm and not 760 like the cw. It runs at .7 w instead of 2.3w like the other diodes. So loss in wattage. Might add single or 2 bulb cw to led area for IR and uv-a actinics.
I can't wait to finish some par t5 / led dankness.
I shall smoke trees Beavis Hehehehehe.
Im awesome!
Theres 2 bubbas in the back of pics only at 3 weeks though. In 2 gal home made air root bags. Hehe lol.
When I get bulbs this weekend. It will be
flora sun / coral wave / redsun / flora sun / flora sun / redsun / coral wave / flora sun.
Taking led approach now and moving IR ( cw ) towards outside.
Dare I say I will be adding a 276 true watt led. 3w x 120. Apollo 8 / Cidly to the room. Hopefully it will be here sooner than later. Its coming from China and that will be per orb (8 orbs)
5 Red 660nm (90 degree)
3 Red 650-670nm (90 degree)
2 Red 630-640nm (90 degree)
1 Orange 610-615nm (90 degree)
1 Blue 450-470nm (90 degree)
1 Blue 420-430nm (90 degree)
1 White 10,000K (90 degree)
1 White 2700K (90 degree)
I wasnt sure about adding IR to led its at 730nm and not 760 like the cw. It runs at .7 w instead of 2.3w like the other diodes. So loss in wattage. Might add single or 2 bulb cw to led area for IR and uv-a actinics.
I can't wait to finish some par t5 / led dankness.
I shall smoke trees Beavis Hehehehehe.
Im awesome!
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
hyroot: I m not convinced that proximity to one another is all that critical (assuming you have the bulbs ~ 10 above the canopy), but I have been doing it anyway. However, I am following your lead and made a few adjustments
1/8 RS
2/8 FS- was ATI Spec Blue Actinic (SBA)
3/8 ATI SBA was FS- was FS
4/8 RS
5/8 660
6/8 CW- was FS
7/8 RS
8/8 FS
I might still swap 1 & 2
LEDs
FWIW, from what I've studied I would go with the opposite numbers for the reds (660 is least needed)
1/8 RS
2/8 FS- was ATI Spec Blue Actinic (SBA)
3/8 ATI SBA was FS- was FS
4/8 RS
5/8 660
6/8 CW- was FS
7/8 RS
8/8 FS
I might still swap 1 & 2
LEDs
FWIW, from what I've studied I would go with the opposite numbers for the reds (660 is least needed)
Lucius Vorenus
Well-Known Member
What is your Grams Per watt average? The most ive seen yet is .5
Fonzarelli
Active Member
I 100% disagree. From the results I'm getting when adding the Kessil 660/630(75%/25%) to 108w T5 of 420/460 blue light, I would say that 660nm is the most important for increasing plant and bud size as well as growth rate. I've never seen anything like this before. For example here is a Sour D grown under a blue T5/Kessil h150 Red light combination which is the same age as this Sour D grown under a 400w Hortilux HPS. Notice the huge difference? This is at week 2 of flowering.
Plants have the ability to adapt to light, so if your blu/red proportions are correct, I don't think it's that big of deal. I think there is a reason the Florasun's are made with less 630nm than 660nm, but it's only a guess. All I know is the added 660nm is working for me. 228w of red/blue light vs. 400w of hps.......I know what I like.
kpmarine
Well-Known Member
But have you tried changing the 660 to 630 ratios? If you look at the amount of both used, it really only favors 660 slightly over 630. It would seem to me that 50/50 or 60/40, favoring the 660, would be closer to optimum. That's just my opinion though.
Fonzarelli
Active Member
No, I don't have that ability. The kessils are built that way. I guess I trust the people that have done the tests already. I can say I'm having better luck with the 660nm T5's vs. the 630nm redsuns though. Overall, I like the penetrating capability of the Kessils and the ability to grow trees with them.
kpmarine
Well-Known Member
As the saying goes, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."
hyroot
Well-Known Member
actually chlorophyll absorbs the most light between 680nm and 700 nm. so 660nm would definitely produce better results than 630nm of course together is even better. the redsuns do have a 30% purple spike at just before 700nm. im thinking now just rock 4 flora suns and 4 redsuns and just add IR reptile bulbs to the outside. Run those only half the time
Beagle
Well-Known Member
I have yet to even start my 100% t5 grow, but it's coming soon...my "bunk bed" system is almost finished and I'm planning on replacing my HPS before I've even finished construction. Even if the yield is smaller, the space I'm using compared to my current system will make up for it(I'm hopeful).
Let me tell you that I am very excited to see the spd graph of these UVL 660nm. If nothing comes of it, I plan on fs, rs, cw, fs,rs,cw, fs,rs...I'm sure everybody gets the abbreviations. Space is limited, as is my budget...so I'm speaking of flowering only while I use the stock 6500k bulbs for veg...sorry. If these 660s pan out it may be 50/50 fs/660 for flower....lets just say I hope the 660s don't take as long as the wave point ultra growths take to come out!
Let me tell you that I am very excited to see the spd graph of these UVL 660nm. If nothing comes of it, I plan on fs, rs, cw, fs,rs,cw, fs,rs...I'm sure everybody gets the abbreviations. Space is limited, as is my budget...so I'm speaking of flowering only while I use the stock 6500k bulbs for veg...sorry. If these 660s pan out it may be 50/50 fs/660 for flower....lets just say I hope the 660s don't take as long as the wave point ultra growths take to come out!
UnderCurrentDWC
Active Member
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
The following is a C/P from SX on another site. He also drops in on RIU as The Lurker. There are a few graphs and discussion that leads into:
(i.e. 630nm red is ~95% of the PSR of 660nm, AND they currently still have ~20-30% greater radiometric efficiency - as well as being cheaper than the deep reds - so there's more 'bang for the buck'):
Green green grass of home
Member
Fonzarelli
Active Member
Hmmmm, gets ya thinking that's for sure. Hyroot do you have anything to add?
hyroot
Well-Known Member
It varies every batch. My last which has been the smallest yield sog, was 0.4 gpw. But before that I got 0.8 gpw. My last sog which im estimating will be 0.5 to 0.6 gpw. The ones I have vegging for the last 5 weeks are going in flower tomorrow and I expect to get much much more. I have had better yields with fewer big plants than small sog.
hyroot
Well-Known Member
I found that post in ic mag. http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=229278&page=5
There's a diagram from an led company. But no actual scientific data to back it up. That guy goes on to say you can get by with just 630's but with both you will have better results.. So if 630 has 95% of the psr that 660 has. Irregardless of that, what matters is where chlorophyll absorbs the light. Chlorophyll B absorbs 630nm , Chlorophyll A absorbs 660nm. Remember class Chlorophyll A makes up 75% of chlorophyll
See that. I just dropped a knowledge bomb. Boo ya ka sha
There's a diagram from an led company. But no actual scientific data to back it up. That guy goes on to say you can get by with just 630's but with both you will have better results.. So if 630 has 95% of the psr that 660 has. Irregardless of that, what matters is where chlorophyll absorbs the light. Chlorophyll B absorbs 630nm , Chlorophyll A absorbs 660nm. Remember class Chlorophyll A makes up 75% of chlorophyll
See that. I just dropped a knowledge bomb. Boo ya ka sha
jimmy glitzz
Member
I know this thread is old, but professeur all your attempts to sound like some grow guru genius just makes you sound like a retard. put some lights on the sh&t, water it, show it some love and it'll do fine. I'm sure you're one super educated individual, but damn dude, quit being so condescending and arrogant.
hyroot
Well-Known Member
hey there newbie ,you come in here talking shit, we don't want or need that. haters not allowed. what do you bring to the table to offer? nothing. pro gave us a new way of looking at things using less watts with better spectrum as a cheaper alternative to led and he just got sick of all the rhetoric from people like you. I would react the same way. especially if i know I'm right. so before you come in with your ignorance. maybe open your mind and you might learn something.
we all proved we can out perform hid with this way.
dang cavemen trolls