kk42 2013

sine143

Well-Known Member
How deep would you say? I'd probably make my beds just short of 4x4x1.5 I think. my plans were to construct the frame out of 1 inch pvc and cover with garden fabric basically. would possibly run some 1 inch pvc strips across the top after I fill em with soil for watering purposes as well
 

kushking42

Well-Known Member
i use yucca in all of my foliar sprays as an emulsifier. helps spread and adhere the spray to the surface of the leaf.

i meant surfactant. not emusifier! but also i think maybe you wanted more than an ingredient list. the purpose of that spray is three fold. to feed, increase brix levels, and protect the plant. the low ph, ascorbic acid are are all their to combat fungi. lowering the orp of the solution makes it to difficult for fungi to propagate. i alternate this with cal carb weekly


  • liquid ingredients
    organic gem fish (food& bene's)
    humax (humic acid)
    molasses (brix)
    organic malt extract (brix)
    yucca (surfactant)
    kelp (micro)
    oxidate ( lower orp)
    THAT (soluble sulfur)

    dry ingredients
    maxicrop (micro)
    sugars (brix)
    kmag (soluble K)
    ascorbic acid Fungi control)

    ph adjusted to 5.8
    orp 125-150​


 

Robear

Member
so....much.....knowledge being dropped. pay attention people! what is the brix readings on those lovely looking cookies bud? they look so damn healthy haha
 

kushking42

Well-Known Member
19 days into flower. watered in some compost tea last watering. made in a 55 gallon drum. earthworm castings for microbial source. fed with molasses, kelp meal, azomite, organic gem. divided the drum up between the four beds. then watered in with plain h2o. second layer of netting up and prunning is done.

installed a sentinel controller to control the bottled co2 i decided to let loose because the exhaust fan is off more than its on. this is an an unexpected bonus as i wasnt planning on running co2 without a mini split or two. we will see how long 100#'s lasts. set the ppms to 1100.

thinking of adding two metal halides above the middle aisle in between the hps' because temps are good and 2 k in extra light is good :)


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farmerEd

Active Member
kk42- Im looking for a new space and want to pretty much copy and paste this grow, had a few ??
What are the dimensions of this room? and what are the temps like with the air exchange?
 

kushking42

Well-Known Member
The building is kind of big that the room is sectioned off in. 20x20x12. The only part separated is the insulated fluorescent L shaped room in the corner. Actual flowering space is 16 x 17x12

The heat dissipates through the building which isnt insulated only rocked. Temps are under 70 with exhaust on full time @ night.

Thats y i had it on a cycle timer. 8 lights (no air cool) and it was still too cold. I also have a 70 pint dehu running.

Fan is rated @ 2900 cfm
 

farmerEd

Active Member
The building is kind of big that the room is sectioned off in. 20x20x12. The only part separated is the insulated fluorescent L shaped room in the corner. Actual flowering space is 16 x 17x12

The heat dissipates through the building which isnt insulated only rocked. Temps are under 70 with exhaust on full time @ night.

Thats y i had it on a cycle timer. 8 lights (no air cool) and it was still too cold. I also have a 70 pint dehu running.

Fan is rated @ 2900 cfm
thank you sir! and I also like the idea of a mixed spectrum...the sun isnt only red
 

kushking42

Well-Known Member
popped some mr nice beans 006.jpg010.jpg they all germinated.

got the space cleared and 200 gallon pots filled for the garden expansion. spaced 10' on center. green crack alley: 013.jpg



here are the blue dream and green crack starts. might just take clones off them as its a bit early still and im shooting for a 10 gallon start by may 15 to put out. we use the wood frame as an internal structure inside the hoop to keep the ladies warm @ night and thats our romulan mother, same plant Bud gave me @ the end of last season!
018.jpg021.jpg024.jpg



added lots more perlite to each container to balance out the 8 cubic feet of castings added on top of the 20 from the previous year. kinda felt that the mix was too heavy last year. 2 bags of the ultra chunky and 1 bag of the hydrofarm stuff. pots had already been amended prior to perlite being folded in. 014.jpg

going to be using this great plant with purple flowers called borage.027.jpg both in teas for fertigation as well as foliar. its a bio-accumulator like comfrey alfalfa kelp etc. a to z in elements plus natural fungicide pesticide. mixed up a batch of kelp meal tea. 2 oz in a 5 gallon pail. gonna let it sit for 72 hours and apply as a soil drench. sprayed down the mothers and starts with fresh aloe vera extract they seemed to really like it. read about the acid and saponin (sp)? it contains acts as a natural fungicide. horsetail isnt the only plant you can spray that does wonders.
 

kushking42

Well-Known Member
(copied form icmag)

The information on polysaccharides is easily available but let me know.


Aloe vera is a nutrient accumulator like Alfalfa, Kelp, Comfrey, etc. meaning that you get the full panorama of Elements needed by a plant.

What separates any plant material from another are the Secondary Metabolites that they contain. IOW, if you only wanted Elements then it really wouldn't matter which of the accumulators you used. Sure - some plants will have a higher profile on this or that but across the board Alfalfa meal could be used in lieu of kelp meal were it not for their specific compounds.

Alfalfa = Triacontanol or Kelp meal = Alginic acid and the other plants will have their own specific compounds that they manufacture.

In the case of Aloe vera you have two compounds that are important - Saponins and Salicylic acid. You've probably seen references to using Willow shoots to extract a so-called rooting compound - well this is the same one that you can use without climbing trees or whatever.

Saponins are usually promoted as a surfactant or wetting agent which is true. But their role is far more complex as it relates to triggering a plant's innate defense systems - System Acquired Resistance (SAR) and Hormonal Acquired Resistance (HAR).

Saponins in the soil, per se, provide a number of other benefits that you can read about. The problem with trying to do research on the Aloe vera plant in the USA is that the links at Google are loaded with blogs, forum posts and manufacturer's blab sheets. Pretty daunting trying to dig through it.

You'll do much better at the Australian web sites. Australia is the 3rd largest producer of Aloe vera extracts - liquid, spray-dried and freeze dried versions. China & Mexico are bigger than Australia.

Besides these 2 specific compounds (of about 450), there are the enzymes and here you can go back to the Google sites, get the specific enzymes Aloe vera contains and then look over at Google Scholar, SCIRUS, JSTOR or another science-based search engines and figure out how it applies to Botany and soil biology.

But Saponins and Salicylic acid would the main selling points from a sales rep perspective.

HTH

CC
 

kushking42

Well-Known Member
(copied from icmag)

On the Comfrey, Borage, Nettle, Dandelion 'teas' how you get to the concentrate doesn't really matter - it's the 'color' of the tea when you apply it. There is no official method on getting the plant material broken down.


Some people make a syrup where only plant material goes into the tank and it renders out a pretty thick syrup. Other methods use water and the amount is all over the place - do whatever works best for your situation.

When it comes time to apply then there is a fairly general consensus - dilute the 'tea' so that it's about the color of what people call 'sun tea' - light amber.

And to your other question, 99.5% of the Comfrey that I process never sees a cannabis plant - it all goes on the beds as green mulch at the beginning the season to get the beds up and running. Lay the leaves on top of the soil and top-dress with some good compost and in about a week you're ready to plant your seedlings. Comfrey has 2x the levels of Potassium than Kelp meal before you even begin to review the other 82 elements it accumulates.

I pour diluted teas on the beds every so often - pretty scientific, eh? LOL

Aloe vera - if you're going to use fresh fillets (best method, IMHO) then you only want to add about 2 tablespoons to 1 gallon of water - that's an uber safe mixing ratio. I use 2x that amount but I'm using the pharmaceutical food grade powders from Australia which as good as they are, fresh is best. You're gold having fresh available.....

HTH

CC
 

GreenSanta

Well-Known Member
doin werk:
View attachment 2568882View attachment 2568883View attachment 2568884View attachment 2568885

built this new screen to sift castings and eliminate those annoying clumps.

each 400 gallon bed was amended with the following:
25# fish bone meal
10# bat guano
10# gypsum
5# alfalfa meal
5# feather meal
5#blood meal
5# crab meal
2 cups magnesium sulfate

no rocks this year because i put so much rock phosphate and azomite last year
sorry for the silly question, what are the # ? cups? cups seems like too little for 400 gallon bed so maybe they are kilos?


How do you mix all the amendments in those tub!!? I can see why you call it werk.

I have to make some supersoil today I was going to make 1 batch with my own recipe and 1 batch with subcool's recipe (never tried it yet) and do some side by side but now I am tempted to use yours, does this recipe perform as well indoor in 7 gallon container or this is more of an outdoor massive container recipe?

Also I have been using neem cake in my own recipe for a long time, a fair bit of it and getting great results but I am learning that it might affect the beneficial microbes in the soil, what are your thoughts on neem cake?

Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge KK42, I ll be there someday!!
 

kushking42

Well-Known Member
# is a pound. that recipe is less than half of what i used the previous year in both the 400 and 1000 gallon containers. my recipe is close to half strength tom hill mix which calls for 50# fish bone meal 100 # chicken manure and 20# gypsum. this recipe is for big plants. but you could definately cut it down and use it inside. last year i put 50 # of gypsum rock phosphate and azomite so i didint add any rocks this year.

yes turning the soil is a lot of work by hand with shovels. it gets mixed in the container. its all ive been doing for two weeks. 1000 gallons is five yards. neem, karanja and crab are great amendments kinda wish i had ordered a few 50# bags of the neem and karanja. i will use them next year
 

Oriah

Well-Known Member
Hey KK, sorry to bust in with a question, but it was on topic... So ive been trying to find some dry amendments that i can add to my TGA soils, so they can naturally be more pest resistant for outdoor.
So far ive got:
Neem meal
Crab meal
and now im thinking some Karanja seed meal? Will this work the same being a meal, mixed into the soil, rather then being mixed and drenched?
I also plan using the BTI dunks along with some predatory nematodes as pre-drench.

Any expert thoughts you can lend me on this would be so greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your time man.
 

kushking42

Well-Known Member
yes karanja should be mixed in with the rest of your amendments, kelp meal is a great addition as well. try to source some nettles or borage, yarrow, comfrey etc and make botanical teas to spray/fertigate with. its natural fungicide and pesticide as well as foliar feed.

this thread over @ ic has been a must read for me: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=241964&do=filter&fid=316221 learning all about foliars and what organic soil is really all about. i encourage everyone to start reading it as you will learn so much. specifically posts by clackamas cootz. although there is a core group of posters with great info there.

bunch of stuff im gonna try and document here from his posts like rooting clones in pro mix with dip/drench of silica (i sourced the raw form and make my own instead of rhino skin or pro tekt) humic acid and aloe vera.

also gonna start fertigating/foliar with aloe and silica every watering/spray. ful humix every 3rd watering. and see what happens when i no till the indoor beds and top dress with layer of borage and castings so excited!
 

Oriah

Well-Known Member
Nice. I was actually just reading a bunch of clackamas cootz on the subject this morning, haha. So thats sweet. Thank you brother.
 
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