woodsmaneh!
Well-Known Member
You do like dogs
You know you should get them to change the title to Ms Ganja, kind of like discrimination
You know you should get them to change the title to Ms Ganja, kind of like discrimination
240 works by combining two 120 volt lines, hence the two black hot wires on your breaker. At the breaker it will only be 120volt on each pole, the receptacles are what combine the poles to create 240volts so there is no need for a neutral or common wire, only 2 hot and 1 ground. Unless of course you're dealing with straight 240 then there is a neutral (in your case there isn't) I suggest you find yourself an electrician before you fry yourself or start a fire.Is the third wire for 240v ground or neutral? And which bar is it connected to now?
No, No, No, and AGAIN NOOne of those black wires should be red. (yes the colour does matter) The green wire should be White and of course the ground. The colours make it easy to spot problems. At least buy some electrical tape in green and red and tape the ends so we know what were looking at.
I think the two blacks at your sub need to be reversed.
ARE YOU USING A WHITE FOR GROUND?
Please make sure you power down when doing any work we don't want a scorched kitty.
Irrelevant - that is wiring for 120 volts....1. Connecting the hot wires.
These connectors need to be pretty tight... but I couldn't find a torque specification anywhere on the panel or in the instructions.
2. Connecting the Neutral Wire to the Large Lug.
This also needs to be quite tight.
The regular terminal points on the bus bar can accept wires from number 14 up to number 8. Larger wires (i.e. a smaller gauge number) require a larger lug.
Note that you can usually buy a large lug like this, which is installed in two terminal points in the neutral bus bar.
3. Connecting the ground wire.
6-3 cable uses a smaller ground wire than the conductors (I think it's number , so the ground wire can fit into any of the connection points in the ground bus bar.
Adding Branch Circuits:
We ran a piece of 14-2G non-metallic cable into the sub-panel.
The cable entered the panel from below, right next to the black sub-feed cable. This circuit simply supplied power to a 2-gang junction box behind the sub-panel. From this point the circuit will feed a string of outlets and a ceiling fan.
Inside the sub-panel: We carefully slit the cable jacket and cut away the plastic.
We connected the ground wire to the ground bus.
To connect the white wire to the neutral bus, we made a sharp turn in the wire and stripped about ½" of insulation from the end.
The bare end of the wire goes under one of the screw terminals. The screw needs to be fairly tight... about 30 to 50 inch-pounds I believe.
The hot wire was connected to a 15 Amp single-pole breaker.
Now the breaker can be installed in the panel.
Cutler-Hammer breakers have a hook on the back end...
... which grabs onto a metal flange in the circuit breaker panel.
The breaker pivots about the hook...
... and is pushed firmly in place onto the hot bus bar.
The first circuit breaker (red arrow) has been installed. A rectangular knock-out needs to be removed from the cover panel to accommodate each breaker.
Wrong. That's if its a 120/240 sub panel. 10/2 for 240 sub panel is fine.May be not in your country but it won't pass inspection here and is dangerous.
You NEED to have a 4 wire feed for a sub panel, 2 hots 1 neutral and 1 ground. You need to have the neutral and ground separated in the sub panel. Turn it off until you redo it correctly. I would recommend hiring an electrician. Watch him or her for next time. What you did is wrong and dangerous.
And ahole your right should not give electrical advice.