Inda-gro Induction...

Hey Scar! The ladies are making a nice comeback! What's your photoperiod with the pontoon? Are you noticing differences in plant response from the Riant grows at this stage?

I'm running 10 dark 14 light ish, (all by hand.)
The dirt is from my garden.
MY nutes are the cheepest Miricalgro money can buy.
im into gram per dollar.....

Differences..

This weeks growth has been better than the Riant lamp.
Ill run these ladies In the folgers cans ;like the Riant plants for a comparison

Inda grows light arrived so fast it was amazing.
And really well packaged.

Looks more pro than The Riant induction lamp.
no exposed wires , not a POS thin semi polished reflector.

It came with a cord to plug in had to add one to the Riant
Hell last time they warrantied my ballast thy didn't put the connector on the high freq wires....

The iG 420 is alot brighter
I believe this alone will make it out yield the Riant..
and it runs a bit hotter.
160' in the middle an 210'F on the ends.

Ig420 dosent make the plants as dark green as the Riant lamp?
But maybe its due to the ph issues......

Day 48 for these Plushberry girls. Only got 2 out of a 5 pack .

Please mind the bugs. First time Iv'e had to deal with fungus gnats.

She looks good mr loonqul

Found a guy with amputated legs an a paralyzed arm with cancer who was intreaged with my nycd auto an auto haze pics.
He wants to try my autos!!
This is why I started my work with autos...
Whooooot.


I'm thinking....
Ill get him seed an help him learn to grow the cheep scarhole way.
My free seed , free gallon containers, dirt from outdoors, 5$ Miracal gro Nutes.
And as many flouro shop lights as he can afford.....

Great read on light,
http://www1.union.edu/newmanj/Physics100/Light Production/producing_light.htm

Pic day for the ladies...
Nycd auto x auto haze
Not bad considering I killed half the stem with STS.



Collecting pollen an will let the bottom to long for the S1s









ChemD bubba x NLBB auto x anmnesia haze auto x auto haze = strawberry auto sativa.
The most sativa auto I've seen yet...



Hit her with the nycd x auto haze this week an seeds are already forming.







Cali Conect sunset LTD







DrGt chemo Iranian x 80s Nl5 x Haze C
Starting to flower realy fast after the flip.





DrGt c99 x amnesia haze auto x auto haze
Ill put the auto nycd x auto haze fem pollen also
Hopefully next round with her will auto flower.





Nh21 x Mullimbimby madness







Group hug







Seems my handicapped friend has grown before.
Whooooooot.
I couldn't imagine growing with one arm an no legs....

Loonquawl said:

Day 48 for these Plushberry girls. Only got 2 out of a 5 pack .

Please mind the bugs. First time Iv'e had to deal with fungus gnats.

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looking great, loon! i love your mainlining! and dat stump action!

as for the gnats, theres a few things you can do about them:
1) get Monterey Bt, or some other source of Bacillus Thuringiensis ss. Israelensis (i personally have used Monterey Bt), and mix 1 tablespoon per gallon of water (nutes or no nutes, i've noticed no difference in performance) and soak the soil at least a few inches deep on the whole of the top surface, with some running down the sides between the soil and the container, and then also apply the Bt mix to the exposed soil at the bottom of the container by lifting it and dipping it into a drip pan with the mix, or use a sprayer if the container is too heavy or cumbersome.
2) i've also gotten rid of gnats by using compost teas. we brew a tea at the shop i work at that has sifted steer compost, kelp extract, dry molasses, fish and neem oils, and some ocean water (for micros). you can sub in or out a lot of stuff here... you can use worm castings instead of steer compost; bottom line is you need something's poop... it's where the microbes come from. then a sugar. that's really the minimum, but other additional inputs can add extra benefits.

the Bt is plant, human, and pet safe, but will crystallize in the guts of the gnat larvae once they've fed on it, and they die; thus breaking the life cycle. just put up some sticky traps to catch the adults. the compost tea works also via microbes, but rather than using a strain that will directly kill the larvae, the compost tea introduces a large, broad population of soil microbes that will fully populate the soil and roots and outcompete the fungus that the gnats feed off, which they also spread via the spores of it on their feet when they land on fresh soil...

i've used both of these approaches before to get rid of gnats, in veg as well as bloom, and to this day, i have no gnats.

Loonquawl said:

Day 48 for these Plushberry girls. Only got 2 out of a 5 pack .

Please mind the bugs. First time Iv'e had to deal with fungus gnats.

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Damn those TGA beans...I've had miserable success germinating them also. I got 1 out of a 5 pack of PlushBerry and 0 out of a 5 pack of The Flav. (I usually have an 85%+ success rate germinating practically every other strain I've ever tried). Not sure what is going on there. Was disappointed...heard the Flav is a nice tasting strain.

And those fungus gnats are little buggers! I've had to deal with them too, and tho they mainly are annoying, they sure are...well, annoying!

The Plushberry looks really nice tho. My lone PB is almost ready to flip into flowering...looking forward to it.

Cheers!

KineBoisin420 said:

Damn those TGA beans...I've had miserable success germinating them also. I got 1 out of a 5 pack of PlushBerry and 0 out of a 5 pack of The Flav. (I usually have an 85%+ success rate germinating practically every other strain I've ever tried). Not sure what is going on there. Was disappointed...heard the Flav is a nice tasting strain.

And those fungus gnats are little buggers! I've had to deal with them too, and tho they mainly are annoying, they sure are...well, annoying!

The Plushberry looks really nice tho. My lone PB is almost ready to flip into flowering...looking forward to it.

Cheers!

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Probably better for a seed forum, but I guess I should have been more clear. I only got 2 females out of five. Ive popped 15 TGA seeds and all 15 germed. Females: 5 of 5 Timewreck, 2 of 5 Plushberry, and 4 of 5 Cheesequake. Happy so far. I have 5 Jillybeans that I'm starting Thanksgiving weekend, fingers crossed.

I use a rapid rooter type plug and put in my clone box.

Not everyone is a Subcool fan, but check out from 19:00
[video=youtube;-6RHdxs1_K0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6RHdxs1_K0[/video]

Top bud of the nycd auto x auto haze.
For a 1 ft plant she did good.....

Loonquawl said:

Probably better for a seed forum, but I guess I should have been more clear. I only got 2 females out of five. Ive popped 15 TGA seeds and all 15 germed. Females: 5 of 5 Timewreck, 2 of 5 Plushberry, and 4 of 5 Cheesequake. Happy so far. I have 5 Jillybeans that I'm starting Thanksgiving weekend, fingers crossed.

I use a rapid rooter type plug and put in my clone box.

Not everyone is a Subcool fan, but check out from 19:00

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I'm not slagging Subcool any, I dont know the guy, so I try not to pass judgement upon people, especially ones I dont know.

I was just stating my issues with the TGA beans I've tried to date. Who knows...I could have old seed stock from the seedbank I got them from, or any other number of factors. I'm quite looking forward to flowering the lone PB I have from the lot of beans I had...it looks like its super yummy!

KineBoisin420 said:

.I could have old seed stock from the seedbank

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Amazing,
What strains from the seed bank do you have?

Day 45 Lighting Layout 2

6 ea., 420-Pontoon combos running at right angles to the tray. 12/12 photoperiod. No ESC was used.
Bud development is substantially better under this lighting arrangement than compared to the previous arrangement. The buds are not airy, quite sticky, and we're seeing very good terpene and pistil production. Much better at this day 45 me thinks.



Homestretch....>>>>

Whats the spacing between lights?

I suggested a 48" on center spacing although I've seen 5 ft on center spacing work nicely too. From the looks of it he went with a 48" OC spacing. He also mentioned that he increased the lamp:canopy spacing to leave at least 16" spacing. I think he's got it this time.

Hello All,
I have never grown indoors so please forgive myignorance. This is more of a “business”question:
Has there been any cost/benefit analysis done on HID vs.Induction lighting (yield vs. cost of ownership)?

I’ve read there is a larger yield (size and weight) on HIDbut then you need lots of amps, ducting, cooling, bulb replacement, etc. versusInduction gives a smaller yield but less infrastructure is needed, cost ofacquisition/operation is less, 15 year life on bulbs, etc.

If you were to start a brand new grow op tomorrow, whatwould you use? And why?

How would you be growing?
Long veg - fewer big plants, or short veg - lots of little plants?

Hi Loon, I'm familiar with raised bed gardening (dirt), but I'm really interested in hydro, RDWC specifically. I am hoping for larger plants. I have a big room that I could dedicate (600+ square feet), I could probably come up with 100 amps @240vt. So I would guess that would be my limiting factor. I figure a small veg room (6x22') and (22x22') for flower

Loonquawl said:

How would you be growing?
Long veg - fewer big plants, or short veg - lots of little plants?

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WAProducer said:

Hello All,
I have never grown indoors so please forgive myignorance. This is more of a “business”question:
Has there been any cost/benefit analysis done on HID vs.Induction lighting (yield vs. cost of ownership)?

I’ve read there is a larger yield (size and weight) on HIDbut then you need lots of amps, ducting, cooling, bulb replacement, etc. versusInduction gives a smaller yield but less infrastructure is needed, cost ofacquisition/operation is less, 15 year life on bulbs, etc.

If you were to start a brand new grow op tomorrow, whatwould you use? And why?

Click to expand...

Hiya WA and welcome to RIU!

This is an excellent question and one that generally does not come up unless it's a larger what I would refer to as a co-op setup. Issues that I've seen push IG right to the front of the decision making process has been site location and limited power. This falls into region and how much AC is going to be necessary to keep temps down. Conversely if you're north of the 40th lat than during winter months HID will help keep temps up which is somewhat of an offset but creating heat from propane or NatGas is going to be far less expensive. But lately I've been hearing about CO and WA growers who have been buying IG because of the crop quality and weights and that the utilities have provided as much as $350.00 per light in incentives. Which if you're already stressing on how much power you're going to consume and how much power is available that type of incentive is pretty darn hard to ignore. The rebates apply even if you're in the design phase and apply for them if you had been considering higher wattage HID for your gardens.

There is a national database where you can plug in your state and find your utility to see what these rebates amount to @ http://www.dsireusa.org/

Now I know that there are those of you who would not want to apply for these rebates because it would expose your operation but here's how I look at it. If you come on line in even as a commercial/industrial client to the utility and are running 30+ 1000 watt HID's on a 12/12 the utility is not blissfully ignorant of what you may be up to. Sure they will take your money but anytime Barney wants a peak the doors are open. So in these 'legal' states why not take the rebate money and tell them whatever you want as to what you're growing. For example I just helped setup some vertical farms in MI where they are growing Arugula lettuce year round and the ROI on the IG-Pro-420's when factoring the rebates and the retail price for Arugula was a 14 month return. But as far as the utility was concerned the rebates went through because we went vertical where each 4 x 8 tray had two 420's (no pontoons) and each section was 4 shelves high. That meant two 420's per shelve came to 840 watts/shelve x 4 shelves = 3,360 watts over 128 sq ft per section or 26 watts/sq-ft. So to put it in perspective. During the rebate phase of things they just care what your loads are. Realistically I would put up 6 ea., 1000 watt HID fixtures each one covering 21 sq ft over the same 128 sq ft. the load would have been 47 watts per sq-ft which is on the low end where the indoor HID cannabis gardener tends to fall in terms of connected load. When going for the rebate you tell them you were planning on swapping an equal number of HID fixtures for one of the qualifying energy efficient technologies and the 8 ea., 1000 watt HID fixtures over a 128 sq-ft area would come to 62 watts/sq-ft.

Since I've got gardens going now with the same lamps which were put in 4 years ago the benefits in not having to change lamps and lower utility bills makes it pretty hard to remember the original cost of purchase having ever been a factor. But initial cost aside you have to look at weights and quality of the finished product. What I'm seeing done with some of the energy efficient lighting technologies, such as high end LED panels and the 420-Pontoon combo are making the comparable weights but with better trichome, resin and terpene production than the higher wattage alternatives. If you do the math on a WA med grow, without the rebates, you're looking at a newbie worst case scenario where it might take two runs to get your investment back on a 420-Pontoon combo. In SoCal I have yet to miss covering the lighting costs within the first cycle.