Beachwalker
Well-Known Member
In addition to spraying, increase the air movement, eventually you'll break their life cycle
I need to kill white flies that just wont die?
- Thread starter AZPsyclops
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Roger A. Shrubber
Well-Known Member
spinosad is good, i use it, but be aware that it does have a translaminar effect, it will penetrate leaves, which is a good thing in my opinion, but it also means that if you use it during flower, some of it will end up in your buds. i know it's not always possible, but it's best if you can have shit like that dealt with before you flip
EverythingsHazy
Well-Known Member
Yea, I have only used it on display plants, so far. Never on a Cannabis or other crops. It's highly effective against whitefly, though. Neem seemed to keep them suppressed, but never erradicated them. Spinosad completely wiped out the populations of whiteflys, fungus gnats, and a small bunch of thrips that hadn't gotten out of control (the main reason for the spraying intervention).
If your crops aren't too far along, or you don't have too many, you may very well be better off tossing whatever is too far close to harvest to spray with chemicals, and the chemically treating your grow area, before cleaning it prior to your next batch of plants. Going all out once, is better than constantly fighting off recurring (resistance building) populations of pests, imo.
PhenoMenal
Well-Known Member
How is having insecticide like this "GOOD"? Perhaps if you're making hemp products, certainly there would be a good argument to help protect crops with insecticides there. But, buds for human consumption???!???!?? And yes, I know that Spinosad [wiki] is apparently "low-toxicity for mammalians", but at the end of the day there is NO reason for ANY insecticides to be on marijuana made for human consumption.
... (agree!?)
Roger A. Shrubber
Well-Known Member
it's good because you can use less of it and that makes it have a shorter half life, so it's completely gone from your plant well before you harvest.
it's also good because it makes it capable of killing the several species of leaf miners that infest weed, and it will also work on broad and russet mites without soil drenching.
if you don't want to use ANY insecticides, that's your choice. there's nothing wrong with using omri certified organic pesticides in a responsible way. with your attitude, you can't buy anything at a grocery store. they use pesticides (like spinosad) on just about every crop grown, EVEN ORGANIC crops.
if you want to go to the trouble of running insect frass, and silicone, and w/e else, and say you weed is purer than mine....do what it takes to make yourself happy
it's also good because it makes it capable of killing the several species of leaf miners that infest weed, and it will also work on broad and russet mites without soil drenching.
if you don't want to use ANY insecticides, that's your choice. there's nothing wrong with using omri certified organic pesticides in a responsible way. with your attitude, you can't buy anything at a grocery store. they use pesticides (like spinosad) on just about every crop grown, EVEN ORGANIC crops.
if you want to go to the trouble of running insect frass, and silicone, and w/e else, and say you weed is purer than mine....do what it takes to make yourself happy
PhenoMenal
Well-Known Member
"half life"? so your insecticide is radioactive also!? And you think using less will reduce the half-life!?!??
Even if you were using a radioactive substance, no - using less of it doesn't result in a shorter half-life. They'll still have the same half-life, you'll just have less of them (which would be a good thing - you'd have to deal with less radioactive waste, but you'd still have to deal with it for the same amount of time).
Roger A. Shrubber
Well-Known Member
the "
why do you assume everyone but you is stupid? i worded something incorrectly, what i should have said was "it has a short half life,so you can use less of it, so it is gone from your plant faster".......and i'm pretty sure you knew exactly what i meant, and went with it anyway, because you have no real argument
Firstgrow1969
Member
New dryer sheets cut up into little squares or full sheets. I spread mine out on the dirt 3 small squares in a pot. They were gone in one day.
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LinguaPeel
Well-Known Member
I bet your bud tastes amazing. I won't even bring dryer sheets in the same building. Cannabis is a sponge to that stuff
Firstgrow1969
Member
Sounds like you typing from experience.
DemonTrich
Well-Known Member
Cough cough
Promis
I've already mentioned it before. Do NOT use it as the label directs. 1.5ml/g foliar every 3rd day for 12 days. NOT in flower.
Done
Promis
I've already mentioned it before. Do NOT use it as the label directs. 1.5ml/g foliar every 3rd day for 12 days. NOT in flower.
Done
Nuk em instructions?
Ar-1013
Member
You're plants didn't do that to combat the whiteflies. That sticky film covering your plants is a byproduct produced by the whiteflies themselves. They use it to make their eggs stick to the bottom of the leaves and if your plants are covered in it then you have an infestation that is beyond your control using any methods that would be considered plant friendly. If your plants are flowering the buds wont be smokable with that sticky film on them so my advice would be to not delay action any further. Throw your plants out and use something powerful to kill all the whiteflies then clean your room top to bottom and start over again. In the future you should keep a few pieces of yellow sticky paper out around your plants and as soon as you see even one whitefly you need to hang a lot more sticky sheets out and treat your plants vigorously using insecticidal soap to prevent an all out infestation. Its also important to realize that you or maybe your pet probably introduced the whiteflies to your garden from your yard so it could mean that you have a whitefly infestation in your yard. You should take precautions not to continue bringing them into your garden by changing your clothes before entering your grow area.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Insecticidal soap is fine for bloom. It's a lot better than Azamax in flower, that's for sure!
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
THIS. If you aren't dealing with the original infestation vector, you may win the battle but never the war.
I saw that same thing on my whitefly infected plants. And it was an indication of a severe infestation, like mine. I treated them with Sevin (in flower unfortunately) and am waiting a few weeks until harvest. I'm hoping that will allow time for the plants to process and rid themselves of the treatment. Fingers crossed. But I have learned that getting rid of whiteflies must be done ASAP, and done well to prevent damage.
JimmiP
Well-Known Member
As for white flies, aphids and most other bugs you can encounter during flowering , isopropyl alchohol, water, Castile soap and potassium bicarbonate (to keep mold and mildew away) seem to work great. You can even tank mix spinosad with it for a little residual. I use an airless sprayer to get a really good mist that fills the area and makes it hard for them to hide anywhere. Sprayed in the evening and returning to check in the morning,,, dead white flies and winged aphids everywhere. I saved my tomatoes just the other day with it.
This mix works great for spider mites too.
When I first learned about this mix I thought spraying alcohol on my plants seemed crazy. But it doesn't hurt them (at least at the 35% or less concentration I use) at all. We also used to use nicotine tea added to this mix if spider mites were being tougher than usual.
Good luck friend!
This mix works great for spider mites too.
When I first learned about this mix I thought spraying alcohol on my plants seemed crazy. But it doesn't hurt them (at least at the 35% or less concentration I use) at all. We also used to use nicotine tea added to this mix if spider mites were being tougher than usual.
Good luck friend!
