Hygrometers How Many of You Use These?

r1tony

New Member
Wow.. I thought I was curing my buds correctly till I bought a hygrometer. I was way off trying to cure wet buds or too dry ones, it was worse then I thought.

I read this article:

http://www.growkind.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39705

I tried this method on my last harvest few weeks ago of Critical+ and omg.. what a difference and process then I thought was so simple. It was simple cause it wasn't working effectively or at all.

Just wondering how many of you use these to cure your buds?!
 

r1tony

New Member
Just picked up a few of these, have yet to use them tho.
Dude you're going to love em.. I really hate not being sure of my process, so I tried these no more guessing. I just thought of puking after I waiting 90+ days for a strain from seed them fuking up the curing process so it isnt all it can be. Well worth it, I bought one at first now I own 4.
 

dirtypussyhole

Well-Known Member
That's awesome you posted this and thank you. I just bought 4 ebay hygrometers from china which are definitely not to accurate and they don't fit in the big widemouth jars unless forced!
 

dannyboy602

Well-Known Member
Yup I got em off eBay. I'd like to get a bunch of cheap ones if anyone knows where you can get em for like $5 or $6 pls lemme know. Mine was 18. and I like it but I need mb a dozen more for a upcoming harvest. Thanks.
 

legallyflying

Well-Known Member
I only have three. I don't know where one is. I harvest so much bud I would need a shit ton to put them in every container. Ay any rate, they are a solid investment.
 

Serapis

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by Serapis
While there are variables that make it difficult to control the drying time, we can easily control the cure time. I never dry for more than three days. Doing so is counter-productive to a good cure. After 3 days, I jar them, each half gallon jar contains buds still on the stems, and a hygrometer. I don't leave much airspace at the top, and that is for a reason. The buds are in varying shapes and sizes and in order to get a controlled cure, we have to sweat the buds once to get everything even. We do that by jarring up the goods after 3 days dry time, whether all the buds feel dry or not. I leave the jars closed up tight for about 3-4 hours, and then I place them in my collapsible net dryer for just 10-12 hours. In this short time, the outsides will crisp up again, quickly. Don't waste too much time getting them back into the jars. At this point, the hygrometers should be reading just under 70% humidity.. and holding steady. If one goes over 70%, empty that jar onto some newspaper and let it sit out for 6 hours and then jar it back up for 6 hours. Eventually, it should drop below 70% and stay there.

Now is the time to sweat it out, slowly. Once we get the weed down below 70%, we have greatly reduced the chance of mold or mildew and can begin the slow, drawn out cure to improve flavor, THC levels and allow the terpenoid oils to develop that wonderful aroma that drives us all wild with passion. I allow my jars to breathe for about 15 minutes a day, twice a day, as long as the RH is below 70% but above 65%. My goal now is to take about 3-4 days to get my weed to 65% relative humidity when jarred. At 65%, the chance for mold is almost non-existent, and we can start to skip a day between burping the jars. At 65 - 60%, I burp for about 2-3 minutes, once every other day.

When you get to 60% RH in the jars, you are nearing long term storage ability. The goal now is to take your time getting the RH to 55%. At 55%, we want to stop burping the jars and consider a longer term storage that is cool and dark. At the 60% - 55% range, i burp once a week, for maybe 5 minutes. Now I never neglect to check the jars several times a day for mold at first, even when I am not burping. I also cut the buds from the stem after the RH is steady and just below 70% and re-jar, leaving about 20% air space at the top. I also gently shake the jars to move the bud around, and use a chop stick if I have to to break up clingers.

This is how I do it. I learned this method, right here on RIU. It is a simple to follow recipe that takes all the BS out of drying and curing. It doesn't matter if you have a high humidity or a low one, everyone can do this. Regardless of how the bud feels at 3 days of hanging, pull it and jar it. As long as you have hygrometers, you won't fail.... the ones pictured below were only $4 on eBay. Some may wish to spend more for a more reliable one, but these can be adjusted from the back to match your trusted analog or digital meter as well. Every new grower should use these until they have mastered curing. even some masters, including those working in tobacco, still use them.



 

thrash4ever

Well-Known Member
Er, don't want to sound like a dick but the link I posted sounds similar to your testimony (an interesting read):

"
+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.
"
 

Serapis

Well-Known Member
er, I don't want to sound like a dick, but if you would read the article I pasted, I gave credit to another RIU article that I learned the technique from. The only reason I bothered to paste it here is because someone was going to come along and ask what they hygrometers are for... lol

The numbers I used came directly from my head as i remembered reading it here on RIU some couple of years ago, before that ICMAG post was even made. I think it was stolen from RIU and posted over there, as the RIU article was older. And personally speaking, I would NOT put a jar at 60% RH into a long term storage as suggested by the article you pasted... that is a bit too high for my comfort.

Er, don't want to sound like a dick but the link I posted sounds similar to your testimony (an interesting read):

"
+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.
"
 

thrash4ever

Well-Known Member
Cool-io, cheers for the clarification re: 60%, all interesting to read :)

Edit: derp, didn't even see you had posted a link... small blue button not good 8)
 

growone

Well-Known Member
i use the caliber III which i think has already been mentioned - a very worthwhile purchase
i did 2 cures without it, then about 5 cures with it
i'll put it this way, i won't go back to no hygrometer
 

Girdweed

Well-Known Member
Serapis, what does your hygrometer read on bud that you are smoking?

I'll be cutting in a week or so and am stoked about curing. Cheers!
 

Serapis

Well-Known Member
Serapis, i prefer your hygrometers to the others in this post, any idea where to find those? Link? Thanks!
http://cgi.ebay.com/Exo-Terra-Analog-HYGROMETER-Reptile-Humidity-Gauge-/310307643100?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item483fc6dedc

Serapis, what does your hygrometer read on bud that you are smoking?

I'll be cutting in a week or so and am stoked about curing. Cheers!
The jar I am currently smoking out of is at about 60% RH I've taken 2 months to get it to that level. If I needed to store a jar that was that high, I'd burp it for two hours every other day until it was > 55% but < 60%
 
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