High PH signs, symptoms and correcting...Pictorial!! A must read for newb'z

sativa indica pits

sativa indica pits

Active Member
pSi007 said:
dont worry about it, I am going to journal Sativa's original post, good info even with a light TDS.. thx, bro.


you could do another with a TDS over-fertilization with pH 5.0 in soil and 8.0 in soil.. would love to see it.
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yeah!! thats a great idea ill start putting together another pictorial for every one, I mean newbs. I have a bunch of males about 25 or so, ready for TORTURE!!! but untill then, every who disagrees, keeps posting and keeps bumping right back to the top so every user and visitor that comes to mj problem's, see what a high ph looks like.
 
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ogilthorpe

Member
Fuck are you dense. 10K grows as in 10,000 people growing.

"growing in dirt, with water and fert isnt for me"

Ya agreed ever since I went to pea shoots, dog urine and Cheers re-runs my plants have been growing like crazy.
 
sativa indica pits

sativa indica pits

Active Member
good to hear... but im really glad you post so much evidence, in your posts, keep on bumping man!! lets keep this rolling all night,, it is roll it up... roll it up all night!!
 
tikitoker

tikitoker

Active Member
dubcoastOGs said:
tiki, I totally get what your suggesting. I would prefer to add more organic matter, composts, teas, whatever. to help the microbial activity of the soil buffer. It seems like it couldn't hurt to adjust the ph of the water going in. But adding anything to the water could have a negative impact on the microbial activity of the soil, and specifically it's ability to buffer. It can have an adverse effect, and really just cause further problems.

this opposing force of "PH DOES MATTER" is not even what we're talking about
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Yes but only if its a bicarbonate and phosphoric acid. Organic sources like citric acid work and are not difficult to leach out of the soil. Phosphates has been show to be slow moving with in soil and aren't easily striped. And my compost teas always start at 6.5 but finish at 7-8. If I let ro+di- sit out it absorbes co2 from the air and ph goes to 8-9. Not a true representation of ph but because its so pure and has no value it has to contain ca\mg so after I add that then I add citric and stabilize. Works cor me.
 
dubcoastOGs

dubcoastOGs

Well-Known Member
so if I remember right (correct me please) You were the one who posted about bubbling your compost tea for more than 72 hours.

is this your process?

adjust water ph to 6.5
add compost, guano, etc, etc
bubble for more than 72 hours
and then add citric acid to bring ph back to 6.5

?

I think it really depends on ingredients, temps, available sugars, etc, but typically microbial activity is at it's peak inbetween 12-24 hours. no longer than 48 hours really.

I would think adding anything after brewing (citric acid) to adjust ph that drastically, would just kill off any beneficial bacteria or microbes rather quickly. no?
 
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ogilthorpe

Member
AimAim said:
Reading between the lines... it sounds like you have an opinion on this.
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Actually I love seeing grow pics, it's one of the reasons I come here, but you'd think this guy was the first to figure out how to grow pot. Seeing the same plants in veg over and over is getting a bit old.
 
sativa indica pits

sativa indica pits

Active Member
tikitoker said:
Yes but only if its a bicarbonate and phosphoric acid. Organic sources like citric acid work and are not difficult to leach out of the soil. Phosphates has been show to be slow moving with in soil and aren't easily striped. And my compost teas always start at 6.5 but finish at 7-8. If I let ro+di- sit out it absorbes co2 from the air and ph goes to 8-9. Not a true representation of ph but because its so pure and has no value it has to contain ca\mg so after I add that then I add citric and stabilize. Works cor me.
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tiki really know his teas huh!! maybe read the info, process and re-read cause he speak exactly what is going on in the tea and soil. once you have made a few you will understand how you can influence ph and make your tea specific to your need. try fish emulsion with a little bit of cider vinegar and ep. salt
 
sativa indica pits

sativa indica pits

Active Member
dubcoastOGs said:
so if I remember right (correct me please) You were the one who posted about bubbling your compost tea for more than 72 hours.

is this your process?

adjust water ph to 6.5
add compost, guano, etc, etc
bubble for more than 72 hours
and then add citric acid to bring ph back to 6.5

?

I think it really depends on ingredients, temps, available sugars, etc, but typically microbial activity is at it's peak inbetween 12-24 hours. no longer than 48 hours really.

I would think adding anything after brewing (citric acid) to adjust ph that drastically, would just kill off any beneficial bacteria or microbes rather quickly. no?
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dude have you ever made a tea... ever? obviously not. you do not brew you aerbioc teas for 24hrs. 72 will give the best tea. look it up. this is widley known man, whay are you trying to call some thing you know nothing about? again you can add citric acid and apple cider vinegar with out damming the bacteria so bad you kill them off.
 
AimAim

AimAim

Well-Known Member
ogilthorpe said:
Actually I love seeing grow pics, it's one of the reasons I come here, but you'd think this guy was the first to figure out how to grow pot. Seeing the same plants in veg over and over is getting a bit old.
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My friend this IS the InterNets.

Internets make yer head spin.

RIU = Best place on Internets what that make your head spin.

We are re-writing the book on Botany. Step aside and watch.......
 
sativa indica pits

sativa indica pits

Active Member
ogilthorpe said:
Actually I love seeing grow pics, it's one of the reasons I come here, but you'd think this guy was the first to figure out how to grow pot. Seeing the same plants in veg over and over is getting a bit old.
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yes but they grow, So really you dont know what your talking about either, you just came for the pics...lol maybe look in a different thread

another non informational post
 
sativa indica pits

sativa indica pits

Active Member
AimAim said:
My friend this IS the InterNets.

Internets make yer head spin.

RIU = Best place on Internets what that make your head spin.

We are re-writing the book on Botany. Step aside and watch.......
Click to expand...

we are, thats cool watch what, the only thing Ive been shown is how to screw up my plants by not checking the ph of my water going in, did you see that?
 
AimAim

AimAim

Well-Known Member
sativa indica pits said:
we are, thats cool watch what, the only thing Ive been shown is how to screw up my plants by not checking the ph of my water going in, did you see that?
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Yeah, on enemas, i.e. pumping fluids up your ass, I would definitely pH them as close to the 6.7 range as possible. You have not experienced lockout until you get your rectum full out of kilter, pH-wise.
 
O

ogilthorpe

Member
AimAim said:
My friend this IS the InterNets.

Internets make yer head spin.

RIU = Best place on Internets what that make your head spin.

We are re-writing the book on Botany. Step aside and watch.......
Click to expand...

Understood, and the primary reason I've been here few years and only have 35 posts.
 
tikitoker

tikitoker

Active Member
dubcoastOGs said:
so if I remember right (correct me please) You were the one who posted about bubbling your compost tea for more than 72 hours.

is this your process?

adjust water ph to 6.5
add compost, guano, etc, etc
bubble for more than 72 hours
and then add citric acid to bring ph back to 6.5

?

I think it really depends on ingredients, and temps, but typically microbial activity is at it's peak inbetween 12-24 hours. no longer than 48 hours really.

I would think adding anything after brewing to adjust ph that drastically, would just kill off any beneficial bacteria or microbes rather quickly. no?
Click to expand...
Well I have posted about teas so yes there's a chance it was me. However I will be clear right now about my recipe and methodology. I target a starting PH of 6.5 and I accomplish this by using an acidic base. I pressurized my RO+DI++uv water during production in a 25gallon tank. If tested immediately once exposed to atmosphere ph reads 5.5. Now in a 5 gallon bucket I fill with ro water and add some de-chlorinated tap (ph 7.6) to bring some calcium and magnesium and I stop when I stabilize at 6.5. Then in a 600 mesh bag I put
1cup of purple cow activated compost per gallon of water
300 ML of aquasheild
2tbsp powdered azomite
2.5tbsp each of wildflower honey and blue agave nectar and un-sulfur blackstrap organic
Trichoderma
Mycorizhal
yeast and enzymes
kelp and or oatmeal
b vitamins
and then I brew with a GH dual diaphragm 20l/min @3psi pump. My stone is a deep water innovations brand micro pore ceramic air diffuser. I brew with a 25w heater set to 73f. I brew for 72hrs total but give to the plant around the 48th hour as its at the peak population in diversity.What's left I add more nectar to and brew to 72. Then I jug it up and it goes in the refrigerator stored for 10 days. I cycle the tea stored into the next batch I brew. I found it really helps influence dormant microbes k n new batch tk awaken quicker. And finally after all is said and done, yes then I will ph to 6.5 anything that goes into my soil. And I do it with citric acid.

Other times i will make a microbes dominance greater than its counterparts by brewing certain manure or additives.
 
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