I found the description I used to get started...I'll post that here, and if you have more questions just let me know and I'll tell you my experience with it.
To give a little overview: you fill a big container with layers of your old soil, then a material you make called Bokashi, then soil, then repeat a few times. You also wet all this down a bit with some more innoculant. You close it up more or less air tight for a few weeks, during which the anaerobic bacteria go crazy and eat up the rootlets and most, maybe all, the potentially harmful microbes or bugs that may have accumulated in the soil--such as fusarium or other wilts, thrips, whatever. You do not want these anaerobic mofos in your planting mix, so at least a few days before you plan to use it, you open up the bin and spray it down with an aerated compost tea to introduce a lot of aerobic bacteria and fungi. For a few days, the aerobes go crazy feasting on the anearobes. When they settle down, you have a biologically cleaned and recycled soil with a healthy, diverse microherd already established. When ready to transplant you use this, mixed with some fresh earthworm castings, and possibly adding minerals or other things if you had deficiencies the last run.
I originally mixed two fresh batches of supersoil about 1.5 years ago and have been recycling and tweaking it since since, now on my seventh run with it. I think it is getting better each run so far.
So here's the description I used to get started...thanks Chunk:
"I use the biggest tote that Rubbermaid makes. I'll empty a Smartpot, and smash down the root mass. I remove the "stump" and the bigger roots, then spread the soil over the entire tote. I sprinkle a layer of
Bokashi and then wet down everything with an EM-1 solution. I repeat this until the tote is full.
I put the lid on it and let it sit for 4-6 weeks. The Bokashi/Em-1 treatment begins an anaerobic composting process that breaks down the leftover roots and other organic material.
About three days prior to using the soil, I apply an AACT to infuse the soil with beneficial bacteria/fungi. These beneficials (which are aerobic) feast on the anaerobic bacteria created by the Bokashi composting process.
After about three days the soil is rich and earthy smelling and ready to go. I still like to add some fresh compost and/or EWC for good measure. I don't add seed/marine meals before re-use, but leave room to top dress if needed.
As long as chemical/salt based fertilizers aren't used, the re-use of your soil is an important component in organic gardening."
Bokashi
Ingredients
100 lb (20kg X 2 bags) of wheat bran [Note: I used 50lbs last spring and it's going to last me one year--I scaled down the other ingredients. You can get wheat bran cheap if you have a local grain mill, but it may be a special order)
12 litres of warm water
240 cc of molasses
240 ml of EM
What you'll need
a tarp, or a large, smooth area protected from the rain
a bucket, or a large spray bottle
a large air-tight container, such as an industrial plastic barrel with the lid
1. Spread wheat bran on a big plastic tarp.
A driveway or any other smooth surface would do fine, but you'll want to make sure that you can protect it from rain - we think about these things in rainy British Columbia! With a tarp, you can wrap the whole batch up as a big bundle if rain threatens.
2. Mix the warm water, molasses and EM in a big container.
3. Spray the liquid mixture over the bran with a water jug or a large spray bottle.
4. Mix the bran and the liquid further by hand, crumbling the chunks down until the bran is evenly wetted.
5. Put the mixture in the air-tight barrel. Press it down as you stuff it in to remove as much air as possible.
6. Leave it for about a month in a warm place. (normal room temperature, or slightly warmer if possible)
7. When the surface of the mixture becomes covered with a whitish, fuzzy mold-like material and has a nice (at least for some of us!) sour fermented smell, it's done.
8. The bokashi can be used right away. For longer-term storage, spread the mixture out on your plastic tarp away from direct exposure to sunlight and moisture until it's completely dry. Break up any lumps; the bokashi should be completely granular. This usually takes a couple of days on the warm summer days of our area; in a hotter, drier climate it would presumably happen quite a bit quicker.
9. The dried bokashi should be good for at least two years.
Finally, why go through all this? Sub does not do it, as I understand, because he gets good results from his method of mixing fresh batches of supersoil, and why mess with something that works. Well, I do it first for stealth, since I am not in anything like an mmj state, so I try to minimize everything grow-related that comes in or goes off my property that I can, including buying new soil materials. Second it's working great and I think as I said that my soil is improving over time. THird it's cheap. So there you have it....
