FFOF ( Fox Farms Ocean Forest ) made Simple - Autoflower
CarolinaPothead
Well-Known Member
I use Budzbuddha's technique with 5 gallon buckets. I've grown photos fine, but mostly autoflowers. I can tell you that if you use this method on autos, you won't hardly have to add many nutes for fast flowering autos. I start in solo cups and use mycos when transplanting. Water it good and completely and then use the ,"feel the bucket weight" method afterwards. I can get almost 2 months without adding anything but water. If you follow this method correctly, its hard to go wrong. Keep that ph between 6.2 to 6.5 and you'll be fine. I'm just starting some more myself. Keep us posted eh? Good luck!
Kushash
Well-Known Member
Telling growers to PH between 6.2 to 6.5 sounds like bad advice to give soil growers. I don't think Budzbuddha ever suggested someone adjust PH to that range.
altaran
Well-Known Member
The very first post in this thread. But yeah, I think 6.2 might be stretching it in soil. But thats just me.
Kushash
Well-Known Member
Thanks for posting that, I haven't read the thread I was just going from my previous assumption. I always thought in the past he was shooting for 6.8, maybe 6.5 - 6.8.
6.2 - 6.3 sounds scary to me especially when the growers taking the advice are usually novice growers that are likely to not properly use and care for a cheap PH pen and may screw up their grow adjusting PH that low. I think many would do better to not PH their water at all, but I guess there are many ways to get good results.
Boatguy
Well-Known Member
From the very first post
CarolinaPothead
Well-Known Member
Okay so I misquoted the ph by .1 my bad that. But I haven't had any trouble as long as it stays over 6. But if you follow @Budzbuddha method it's hard to go wrong. But whatever works for you. My only problems now are lack of better beans and I'm remedying that soon.
CarolinaPothead
Well-Known Member
Everytime I've not ph'd indooors I've regretted it. My well water is like 5.8(ouch!) -6.1. If you use mycos it really does help control the ph the plant actually gets. It helped me greatly. My only problems since have been spider mites and powdery mildew. Both were my fault from cross contamination.
Boatguy
Well-Known Member
I water mine with straight tap without ph adjustments. Even at nearly 8 i havent had an issue.
Potting soil does act as a buffer
obijohn
Well-Known Member
I need clarification on PH here. I know Ocean Forest buffers to 6.3 and I use it every grow. Because of that I don't PH out of the tap (even tho it's 8 or a bit above) I DO PH when I am feeding, I grow photos so after a few months the plants need some food, especially for flowering.
But up above I see "Telling growers to PH between 6.2 to 6.5 sounds like bad advice to give soil growers."
??? Isn't that range preferred? When I mix Tiger Bloom, it's 1-2 PH before I adjust. I figure I'm good if I'm anywhere between 6-7
But up above I see "Telling growers to PH between 6.2 to 6.5 sounds like bad advice to give soil growers."
??? Isn't that range preferred? When I mix Tiger Bloom, it's 1-2 PH before I adjust. I figure I'm good if I'm anywhere between 6-7
Wizzlebiz
Well-Known Member
That's because it has pixie dust to buffer it out.
Kushash
Well-Known Member
Mine is like yours near 8. I never adjust PH. My ppms average 400 and I like to cut the tap in half with RO down to 200 ppms.
Fox Farm tends to be an acidic soil to start with, so it's the people lowering PH that I visualize running into trouble. I have had a number of grows with fresh FFOF that developed a low soil PH in early flower where a top dressing of Dolomite Lime helped.
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
Hola ….
I think I mentioned regional batch differences in bag. 6.3 was an early average out of bag. I run un-gassed tap ( 7.2/7.6 - 350 ish ) cali crap without much issue except for its heavier calcium component. That alone affects some uptake causing issues. At least for me here in the west.
Your water sources and conditions obviously would be different. I originally stated a much more narrow window but later seen better regularity with 6.6-6.8. Tap can run in it without too much issue with the oyster shell component , but found by ranging the ph to the “ plant “ instead lengthened the buffering. Since matching the plant more - I never had to re-amend.
5.8 is considered “ pure water “ but is acidic. Those growers that buy “ special “ spring water or distilled will find it is not necessary to use.
Most municipalities will have the calcium / magnesium and even the chlorine component that plants use already covered. Thread was mostly to cover 90-100 day average Auto grows. Whereas tap will be fine start to finish.
Plus …. Since I push the interval top dress during grow - that also “ recharges “ medium as time and grow moves forward. No extra amendments if I refresh from transition on. Almost like I’m recycling medium in pot.
Back to the Blunt …. Lol.
I think I mentioned regional batch differences in bag. 6.3 was an early average out of bag. I run un-gassed tap ( 7.2/7.6 - 350 ish ) cali crap without much issue except for its heavier calcium component. That alone affects some uptake causing issues. At least for me here in the west.
Your water sources and conditions obviously would be different. I originally stated a much more narrow window but later seen better regularity with 6.6-6.8. Tap can run in it without too much issue with the oyster shell component , but found by ranging the ph to the “ plant “ instead lengthened the buffering. Since matching the plant more - I never had to re-amend.
5.8 is considered “ pure water “ but is acidic. Those growers that buy “ special “ spring water or distilled will find it is not necessary to use.
Most municipalities will have the calcium / magnesium and even the chlorine component that plants use already covered. Thread was mostly to cover 90-100 day average Auto grows. Whereas tap will be fine start to finish.
Plus …. Since I push the interval top dress during grow - that also “ recharges “ medium as time and grow moves forward. No extra amendments if I refresh from transition on. Almost like I’m recycling medium in pot.
Back to the Blunt …. Lol.
Go go n chill
Well-Known Member
I’ve grown in FFOF with a PH 5.8-6.2 and the girls loved it. Just my experience
Kushash
Well-Known Member
I can see that if your tap water has that PH from the tap. I'm suggesting that new growers who use PH down to get in those ranges will not likely have the same success you are. What is the EC or ppm of your tap water? The lower it is the easier it will adapt to the soil PH vs hard water IMO.
Go go n chill
Well-Known Member
Ppm is 250 and a ph of nearly 9 from the tap.... it’s nuts. My last grow I never ph’d anything. Crazy sounding I know but the plants did really well. I give credit to the General Organics line of nutrients. I’ve never used it until this past grow. Amazing accompanying the FFOF
Go go n chill
Well-Known Member
Go go n chill
Well-Known Member
And your correct, a new grower can straight up kill a plant with PH fumbles. A pen out of calibration can make a fella chase his tail....
singlecoiled
Well-Known Member
I've tried two dirfferent bags of FFOF (east coast here) and had nothing but problems using that soil. It was a nightmare, no leaves lived and my plants barely made it through flower. When I switched to Happy Frog, all my problems went away and my plants exploded....
Maybe I got unlucky and got too bad batches, who knows, but I'll never use it again.. Watering it smelled like a pig farm, it was horrible...I'm not alone, I've talked to a lot of growers and many say the same thing.
Nice looking plant by the way, it seems to work great for you! Best of luck
Maybe I got unlucky and got too bad batches, who knows, but I'll never use it again.. Watering it smelled like a pig farm, it was horrible...I'm not alone, I've talked to a lot of growers and many say the same thing.
Nice looking plant by the way, it seems to work great for you! Best of luck