DJ's LED medical grow

djwimbo

Well-Known Member
Bad news bears, after doing more research, it's "white mold" or powdery mildew.

Fortunately I found it now. I mixed up a 3:1 water:milk solution and soaked the bottom of the pots in it. I dug out some bits of perlite and coco through the holes in the sides, found traces up 1" from the bottom. Holy crap are there a LOT of root tips trying to push out, and from what I can see they're healthy. That's a sigh of relief, but I know this could end up poorly. There's easily 25+ tips at or through the disc at the bottom of the pot.

Transplant tomorrow... yay.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Happens to all of us, and frequent enough that 'I" moved to hydro, which also has possible issues, BUT, are much easier to control & resolve

If possible, buy a qt of Food Grade H2O2 and dilute 11:1 to = a 3% dilution. Mix in a bucket big enough to soak your grow pot. Short of that, soak the media.
 

djwimbo

Well-Known Member
I read about H2O2 solutions, but I think that's the first I've heard of a "food grade" version. I'll see what I can find. I have hydrogen peroxide around, but it's first aid style @3% solution. I found the milk solution recipe in RIU, and figured I'd try it. Am I supposed to notice a decline already?

Coco is being soaked for transplant right now. This time I'll rinse my perlite too, and hopefully get my intended Coco:Perlite ratio this time.

I'm still impressed at how a ~2" tall plant can fill a 1L pot with roots in <2.5wks.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
The difference between FG and what we buy at drug store is stabilizers and possibly purity. FG is EXTREMELY caustic (special hazardous materials handling required for shipping which adds sig to price)

Handle with rubber gloves, goggles/eye protection, not a bad idea either.

I doubt the regular h2o2 would harm the plants, particularly if you flush afterwards with a dilute soap or nut solution
 

sadface

Active Member
Subbed, doing things I am all intrested in trying at some point

1. LED
2. Main-lineing
3. Coco

Cant wait to see what happens!
 

djwimbo

Well-Known Member
I'll be out and about today, I'll see what I can find.

For now, I found something interesting... Sulfur Vaporization.

https://www.rollitup.org/general-marijuana-growing/8382-sulpher-vaporizer-users-help.html

I bet ya this guy knows what's up ... His ebay name even has 420 in it, he's from CA, and
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sulfurizer-Sulfur-Sulphur-vaporizer-evaporator-burner-mold-mildew-pest-control/320845579220?ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1&ih=011&category=3186&cmd=ViewItem

For the price, I'm not going to DIY that, but I might buy it. On top of that, I have TWO digital timers now, so I can set it to cycle 8x over a week.

FWIW, the first aid H2O2 I have says it's diluted with purified water.
 

tags420

Well-Known Member
You just haven't done anything to prevent things yet, unless you haven't mentioned it. It's hard to think about being preventive with a smaller garden but the PM actually likes the smaller areas. An oil like organocide or something is my first pick. I like it cause it will target/prevent other things too. Other non oil PM products like a bicarb(sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate) or actinovate(contact killer) work good too. The sulfur burner will work also but you need to be preventive with it. NEVER use sulfur and an oil within 7days or each other or together, it will kill your babies. If you want to never see it again get eagle20 but it is ridiculously expensive and not price practical for your size garden.
 

djwimbo

Well-Known Member
Replanted update, Day 19.

Some root porn action, also shows where and how the powdery mildew hung out. I knocked as much of it off as I could, without hurting the root system, before it was put near the new medium.

For reference, Wendy's cup was the WRONG way:


And Wilma's was the CORRECT way:


Wendy, pre-transplant pics






Wilma, pre-transplant pics












The last pics was pre-feed, so the coco settled a bit, and it looks like there's less coco in the one pot because I had to top it up.

The cups on the bottom of the 7.5L pots are pointing the correct direction. I honestly think I tried it both ways to see what would happen, and smoked too much to write it down, or obviously think a whole lot about it. Chalk that one up for a rookie move. It's been known to help promote PM.

I should not have been surprised at how much the PM creeped up the pot. Obviously I'm not happy about that, but I assure you I'll do my best to resolve it.

Despite the PM, those roots look happy to me.

This batch needed more coco, hence Wilma's top of straight coco.. and I actually rinsed my perlite this time. It was ~2.2L pre-wash perlite per 7.5L Airpot.


Should actually be ~25% Perlite(Black Gold brand) now, and I've been using Roots Organic Coco.
 

djwimbo

Well-Known Member
You just haven't done anything to prevent things yet, unless you haven't mentioned it. It's hard to think about being preventive with a smaller garden but the PM actually likes the smaller areas. An oil like organocide or something is my first pick. I like it cause it will target/prevent other things too. Other non oil PM products like a bicarb(sodium bicarbonate, potassium bicarbonate) or actinovate(contact killer) work good too. The sulfur burner will work also but you need to be preventive with it. NEVER use sulfur and an oil within 7days or each other or together, it will kill your babies. If you want to never see it again get eagle20 but it is ridiculously expensive and not price practical for your size garden.
This is absolutely true.

And that's a very important thing to know.

Side note, I'm allergic to sulfa drugs, should I avoid using a sulfur vaporizer on my plants? Proximity wise I'm pretty close to them, and breathe the same air they do.

I'm not exactly broke, but I understand paying for quality. $60/pint is a lot, Eagle20 better be good for that price. The local place I've been going has Organocide, PM Wash, Green Cure, SaferGro, Espoma spray, Physan20 and Zero Tolerance. I don't see anywhere that these are recommended for soil treatment, they all list as a foliar treatment. The Zero Tolerance looks good on paper, it's Ed R's formula, and he seems well respected in the industry.

Ed Rosenthal's all natural Zero Tolerance Herbal Fungicide destroys mold and fungi!
Made from pure food grade ingredients, ZT Herbal Fungicide is environmentally safe. It's also safe to use around plants, people and pets.
Zero Tolerance Herbal Fungicide is made from the highest quality Rosemary oil, Thyme oil, Clove Leaf oil, Wintergreen oil and Potassium Bicarbonate.
Use it for both elimination and prevention of:
Powdery Mildew
Gray Mold
White Mold
Black Spot
Most other molds and fungus


Works in outdoor or indoor gardens and greenhouses.
I've never seen two of the same bugs in my box, except for maybe a mosquito, but every bug I found died. It seems like overkill to get a product to deal with my PM issue that also does bugs, but we'll see. At this point I know there is absolutely no denying that I'll have an issue again in my soil, so I need to find a solution before it gets worse.

And then I found, Physan 20. I've never heard of it before, but this caught my attention.

While growing, Maril Products recommends using a ratio of one teaspoon per 15 gallons of water in the reservoir every 5-7 days to help control pathogens in your reservoir.
Sounds to me like that's A-ok for use in the root system, and Coco is half-ass hydro anyways... I need to research more.
 

tags420

Well-Known Member
Avoid using any sulfur products then if you have even the slightest chance...specially when there are plenty of other just as good or better options.
That eagle actually a lot cheaper than when I was looking into it. It was $100+ and was worth it even at that. It's only a .5ml/gal usage so it goes a long ways. It has come down and at those prices I would do if it gets out of hand before flower...but I looked at your pics and can't see any PM. So just a normal horticulture oil and preventive use should be more than enough from what I see(don't see).

I have used Eds stuff for mites and PM and it doesn't do anything really...just make your room smell like christmas.
 

Highocaine

Well-Known Member
Fantastic photos, wimbo. They seem to be responding well to their first topping, PM or not!

Aside, I finally get airpots - even more convenient than smart pots, in that you can see the roots, and that they just unwrap when it's time for transplant. I never knew they unwrapped, before :eyesmoke:
 

djwimbo

Well-Known Member
Avoid using any sulfur products then if you have even the slightest chance...specially when there are plenty of other just as good or better options.
That eagle actually a lot cheaper than when I was looking into it. It was $100+ and was worth it even at that. It's only a .5ml/gal usage so it goes a long ways. It has come down and at those prices I would do if it gets out of hand before flower...but I looked at your pics and can't see any PM. So just a normal horticulture oil and preventive use should be more than enough from what I see(don't see).

I have used Eds stuff for mites and PM and it doesn't do anything really...just make your room smell like christmas.
Thanks for the tip on Ed's mix. I'll make sure I avoid it.

It's early PM, definitely not well set in. I am familiar with that bastard. I lost 4z's to PM, I have an eye for it now. I dealt with it in the curing process, but I don't know how clean it was delivered to me.

wet weight 24hrs after chop, colas were weighed first if you can read the writing, a couple were >50g. Dried came to about 6.5z's, 4 I lost to PM, 2.5 made it into dessert for Thanksgiving. The dessert was righteous, the PM was a heartbreaker... live and learn.

I got to smoke this one (Liberty Haze, again wet weight) ... I know now that it was either premature or just not that potent, hit clean though.


I never claimed to be good at trimming, and with only one helper, it took awhile.


Fantastic photos, wimbo. They seem to be responding well to their first topping, PM or not!

Aside, I finally get airpots - even more convenient than smart pots, in that you can see the roots, and that they just unwrap when it's time for transplant. I never knew they unwrapped, before :eyesmoke:
I thought they were pretty neat before the guy explained how easy transplanting was. Now that I've used them long enough to transplant, and seen the root growth, I'm a big fan.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Plus, you don't have to remove the smaller AP wrap, just drop it into a larger one and infill the air space. The roots will now grow into the fresh media. No shock to the plant, although there is very little if you are careful opening and transplanting the smaller plant
 

djwimbo

Well-Known Member
The local store had a small bottle of Physan20, for the price I couldn't say no. Today is a "rest" day, I don't need to water or deal with heat issues. Temp is 73F and 45%RH.

I also picked up the 2oz pack of Actinovate. I know the PM isn't drastic, so I'll address it with the Physan20, and then the following feed I'll introduce some bennies.

I forgot all about beneficial microbes, or at least adding them as prevention. The store requires that you have some experience before employment, and gives discounts to card holders, so I explained my situation. Seemed to confuse the first one, but still helped, and eventually asked another employee that was more helpful. Coincidentally, that employee is also the one who helped me last time, when I had an issue with the first employee I dealt with... maybe I'll just deal with the one good employee I've dealt with from now on. Anyways, neither of them had dealt with what I described to them, but at least helped with knowing more about the products than a website. I would have picked up some of the Organocide as well, but I only spend cash there and ran out.

I reintroduced LST as well. Second topping will happen in the next 3-4 days(I assume at least). There's enough for me to re-top now, but I want to wait until the secondary growth under the new top chutes has progressed more.
 

djwimbo

Well-Known Member
Update, Day 23.

Wendy and Wilma were pruned and re-topped(on Day 20, Monday). I haven't had enough time to write down notes since, I took some pics though, and hopefully they make some sense. I need to catch up on sleep.

Wendy has more "deformed" leaves than Wilma, the pic of the trimmings shows the irregularities/differences between them. The deformities arrived around the time of the roots hitting the bottom of the container and the transplant. I assume there was some shock involved, new growth has been normal. I accidentally ripped a leaf on Wilma, but she bounced back. They also switch spots, Wendy is in the back, and Wilma is up front.

Water/feed schedule slowed down. New mixing buckets means a new conversion factor of nutrients... so they unintentionally got a lighter feeding after topping than I wanted. ~900ppm

Introduced Actinovate to the soil, and I will be sourcing a foliar multipurpose spray soon. I used the Physan20 to clean my room, the used pots and all the equipment I could.

Temps are down, new fan has yet to arrive (S&P 100X). RH is higher than usual, but good.

There's a few dozen paperclip LST wires around each now, I want to readjust them... it could be better.

Stalks are fattening up quite well, and the side branches are all making big knots at the base.

This set of pics is from Day 20 top/trim








Wilma pre-trim




Trimmed



Pics day 23 (today) coming.
 

djwimbo

Well-Known Member
Day 23, pics, I tried a couple ways to satisfy my LST obsession.

I actually used less clips this time, and organized it much more effectively I think. Wendy is meeting my expectations, at least so far. Wilma on the other hand is above anything I could have expected. Harder to train, but as bushy as that bish is, I wish I had the room for another month of veg. The plan at this point is to use week 5 to lower the schedule, and call Day 1 of Week 6 first day of flower or 12:12. I change my mind a lot, but that gives a full 9 weeks to flower. An extra week of veg is worth my time down the road, and I figure if they develop this well now, they should finish flowering well. Needless to say, I'm pretty excited to see where this goes.

Notes on Wilma:
Lower chutes were moved to the center space as the tops are all pulled out. I'm attempting to LST it out as close to a scrog canopy as I can. I know it's not true mainlining, but I don't want to chop them off. These same chutes on Wendy are larger, so a "standard" approach was taken. Since Wilma's are more narrow, I figure they will love the direct light they've been stretching for(I pruned them).

We'll call this science, and see the result.

I pulled the "skin" and the cotyledon off the stems.

Before adjustments today





After adjustments (Wilma)



Here's what I'm talking about with the lower chutes raised up through the middle


And where they're popping out the top/center.




Wendy, before adjustments today.



After adjustments ... or a few adjustments really.



 

djwimbo

Well-Known Member
One more thing, then I'll go to bed.

Both Wendy and Wilma have pushed a single root out the bottom of their new pots already. They were transplanted THREE days ago.

Airpots are cool.
 

djwimbo

Well-Known Member
Update, Day 26, 18:6

added more LST, they're getting a break from pruning, and will be fed again tonight at lights on(pots are light).

Day 26 coincides with my 26th, I originally wanted to start 12:12 today.

Not a whole lot else worth mentioning. They will continue to be fed on "Week 2-3" regimen until the whenever they hit 12:12, then I'll slowly increase the "Boost" to their recommendations.

First up, roots pushing through, pic was from 6/6.




Day 26 pics
Wilma




Second node(first fans removed) vs top(one of four)


Wendy





I'm really excited for how this is going to develop.


Shows how fat the knots are getting right at the stem.



There's a bunch of roots coming out the bottom now, one is all sorts of healthy/hairy. No signs of PM yet, foliar or rhizosphere. No consistent bug issues, and the ones I found are all normal household bugs, not minding the plant. Leaf deformities seems to have declined, new growth looks normal/healthy. Color has been consistent since last feed, no signs of deficiencies worth mentioning. Lower leaves have touched wet soil more than once, and have damaged the leaves. Once they are fully shaded or damaged, they will be removed.

Not sure how much of it is attributed to the topping, the strain, the nutrients, etc, but I am quite happy at how fat that stalk is getting. I had all the LST wires off and it feels more solid than a tree/sapling of the same diameter.

I also did not place the discs high enough in the airpots. They're supposed to be up one more row... oops.
 
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