DIY with Quantum Boards

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sethimus

Well-Known Member
the only driver that could run 4 boards is the 2800mA version, but only 4 in parallel, nothing in series
 
Stephenj37826

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
sethimus said:
the only driver that could run 4 boards is the 2800mA version, but only 4 in parallel, nothing in series
Click to expand...

This is not the case. You can run 20 boards on any driver listed on the website..... The voltage doesn't change (well actually it goes down slightly due to less current per board) when you run then in parallel.

In ttys build I used HLG 320H-1400B( had them in stock so I used them) to run 4 boards. So I have 2 parallel strings of 2 boards in series. It's the same as 4 boards in parallel on HLG-320H-2800

Also Capitan Morgan's build is 4 boards on HLG 240-2100

I could've also used HLG 240-1050 on 4 boards as well.

Just remember if wiring in series you add the voltage together IE 109+109 = 218 volts. If the driver you are looking at has 218 volts or more in its CC range then you can use that driver. If you wire in parallel then the current is divided amongst the boards. You can also do both. Have parallel strings of series boards.

The molex connectors on the boards are rated at 300 volts so 3 in series will exceed this number by 8-10%

So it's safe to run a maximum of 2 in series.
 
dandyrandy

dandyrandy

Well-Known Member
1000ppm said:
On the pico fuses they have very fast acting and slo-blo. Which one would be better suited for the parallel circuit protection?
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Fast to protect solid state devices. Inrush may blow it though. You need it large enough not to blow (around 75% of fuse rating for overhead) but if the inrush at turn on blows a fuse (due to a motor or other large inrush device) a slow blow will be used. If running at .8 amps per module a one would work. The picofuse will push in to the panel hole. You can also use a fuse holder with a different style fuse. They shouldn't blow unless you have a failure so you shouldn't have to change them. 1 amp at 120 vdc will be ~120 watts.
 
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ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Stephenj37826 said:
This is not the case. You can run 20 boards on any driver listed on the website..... The voltage doesn't change (well actually it goes down slightly due to less current per board) when you run then in parallel.

In ttys build I used HLG 320H-1400B( had them in stock so I used them) to run 4 boards. So I have 2 parallel strings of 2 boards in series. It's the same as 4 boards in parallel on HLG-320H-2800

Also Capitan Morgan's build is 4 boards on HLG 240-2100

I could've also used HLG 240-1050 on 4 boards as well.

Just remember if wiring in series you add the voltage together IE 109+109 = 218 volts. If the driver you are looking at has 218 volts or more in its CC range then you can use that driver. If you wire in parallel then the current is divided amongst the boards. You can also do both. Have parallel strings of series boards.

The molex connectors on the boards are rated at 300 volts so 3 in series will exceed this number by 8-10%

So it's safe to run a maximum of 2 in series.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I'm not solid on my driver to chip/board relationships.
 
MMJ Dreaming 99

MMJ Dreaming 99

Well-Known Member
Stephenj37826 said:
View attachment 3865116 View attachment 3865117

Kinda like this?

Yeah we are offering these pre assembled just for a 4X4 area and it will adjust up to 600 at the wall on 120V. I usually preset at 550 as this gives the drivers a little room to breathe and also it's pretty darn bright at that wattage.

The bottom fixture is 24"X24" for an open area 4' wide tables. If I was doing it in a tent I might consider 28"X28"-30"X30"
Click to expand...


Will this have enough horsepower to take on a 1000 Watt HPS or does it need two COBs in that middle area?
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Stephenj37826 said:
It will take on a 1000 SE as is.
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If I have my math right, you're driving these boards at 135-150W each, where my wall washer fixtures are getting 80W each.

This choice was made to allow for ambient/passive cooling and has the benefit of a few extra points of efficiency, is that right? I'm trying to follow your design logic here.

Did the lenses or intended light distribution play a role in this choice?

Do you think distribution and effectiveness would suffer if we cranked watts per board up to 550-600 and cooled them actively? If so, how much?

Don't get me wrong here, I'm loving these fixtures as is! I'm just thinking about other design options and trying to get a handle on their implications.
 
Stephenj37826

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
If I have my math right, you're driving these boards at 135-150W each, where my wall washer fixtures are getting 80W each.

This choice was made to allow for ambient/passive cooling and has the benefit of a few extra points of efficiency, is that right? I'm trying to follow your design logic here.

Did the lenses or intended light distribution play a role in this choice?

Do you think distribution and effectiveness would suffer if we cranked watts per board up to 550-600 and cooled them actively? If so, how much?

Don't get me wrong here, I'm loving these fixtures as is! I'm just thinking about other design options and trying to get a handle on their implications.
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The build you have is just to test the overhead vertical lens hypothesis. I have a couple tricks up my sleeve for the future builds. Those are proof of concept ;)
 
robincnn

robincnn

Well-Known Member
@pop22
@goodro wilson

@Stephenj37826 and I are consolidating the inventory
There will be 12 pcs 90W Kits available this Thursday-Friday.
There will be 60-75 Boards available this Thursday-Friday.
We have very few Board heatsinks left. 10-15 pcs. Will be available by Friday.

I will post here as soon as they are available. However if you guys hate to wait and want to pre-order just boards or 90W Kits. Let us know and i will add a few online for per-orders.
We cannot accept pre order on Board Heatsinks as quantity is too low and we dont know how many we have left.

More QB304 boards are on order and will be available 3rd week of Jan. There are limited 4000K boards too. If someone wants 5000K then let us know asap

We have 2 suppliers making heatsinks and so heatsinks will be restocked soon. 3rd week of Jan.
We are also designing a new heatsink that can hold 3 boards. Like a 3x of Slate 1
We are also designing a new version of heatsink for single board that will be around $20 and can handle more power.

Happy new Year
28th and 29th Jan @Stephenj37826 and I will be there at indoexpo In Denver. :weed:
HORTICULTURE LIGHTING GROUP
BOOTH:436
horticulturelightinggroup.com
 
MMJ Dreaming 99

MMJ Dreaming 99

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
SWEET
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Ha ha! As soon as I read Stephen's comment that it will take on SE as is....the same word came into my mind - Sweet.

Stephen when will you have this baby for sale on the web site? Thanks and Happy New Year. Keep up the good work. Amazing stuff!
 
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bassman999

bassman999

Well-Known Member
1000ppm said:
Looking at this board it seems like you could make 1 lens that covers the whole board. And is blacked out 1inch around the edges to cover the wire connections.

That connects to the heat sink maybe raised a half inch or inch off of the heat sink.
Sandwiching the board between the lens and heatsink.
Click to expand...
This what I was thinking, and I think what they are trying to get made?
 
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