Cutter Electronics: Complete DIY COB kits

welight

Well-Known Member
Are those heatsinks predrilled and tapped for the 3590 to be screwed down directly, without the holder? Any alternative for the heatsinks that can take 100+ W passively?
The heatsink 140mm is realistically good to around 80 watts, i have not tested it 100 watts. There is no real drill pattern that suits 3590 as the chip has no holes, we can presolder wire lengths to the chip and even use thermal epoxy to lock it down, however the chip would be destroyed should you try to remove it after epoxy set, but that does not resolve it for Angelinas, but you could use it in this instance with glass lenses or the Khatod silicon lens as an alternative
http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut3011
Cheers
Mark
 

Toaster79

Well-Known Member
The heatsink 140mm is realistically good to around 80 watts, i have not tested it 100 watts. There is no real drill pattern that suits 3590 as the chip has no holes, we can presolder wire lengths to the chip and even use thermal epoxy to lock it down, however the chip would be destroyed should you try to remove it after epoxy set, but that does not resolve it for Angelinas, but you could use it in this instance with glass lenses or the Khatod silicon lens as an alternative
http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut3011
Cheers
Mark

Oh, I totally forgot CXB series have no holes and have ceramic base :wall: I wanted to reflow them directly to the copper core heatsink but in the end had to glue them down. Still looking for that S-bond stuff to have ceramics soldered to other metals. The noctigon style.
 

welight

Well-Known Member
Oh, I totally forgot CXB series have no holes and have ceramic base :wall: I wanted to reflow them directly to the copper core heatsink but in the end had to glue them down. Still looking for that S-bond stuff to have ceramics soldered to other metals. The noctigon style.
understand, ceramic not a bad thing but the lack of holes makes holders a simple goto solution
Cheers
Mark
 

Bud Assasin

Well-Known Member
Greetings Growmau5, I ripped all your Youtube Content and watched in fragments over the course of a few weeks, re watched a few vids just for shear entertainment.
First I would like to say thank you very much for being so generous with your knowledge and not trying to capitalize on it the instant the thought of generating a revenue stream crushes the thought of just sharing information, your a rare Youtube Gem.

I plan to build a CANOPY ish type light, not because I think your design is not feasable but I have a Daughter in University so I should remain Budget conscious so as not to alert the Boss / accountant hee hee.

So I have taken a page out of your book of "Detailed Information" and uploaded some pics of a LED I bought 3 years ago on Ebay, it was not advertised as a 924 watt LED and I paid around $600 CAD.

I believe it has 308 of your typical garden variety (pardon the pun) spectrum 3 watt LED's

There are 9 drivers, as per the pics they are no name, Manufactured January 24 2013
100 - 240 Volts input
55 - 100 volts Output
500 - 550 ma

From what I gathered from your videos and pleas correct me if I am wrong I can replace the OEM LED array with COB's.

If I do how can I articulate the Ma Voltages to run reliably, I want reliability,

Whats your opinion on these? Anyone?

http://www.newark.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?pageSize=25&st=mpl&catalogId=15003&categoryId=800000005570&langId=-1&storeId=10194

Ideally I would want the best Spectrum for essential oil production, I like my flowers more smelly than big, and I will be doing some Lab terpene extractions, or fractional distillation with the final product.
 

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Bud Assasin

Well-Known Member
I would start googling numbers on the components see if you come up with spec sheets.

Maybe we can use ohms law to figure some of the values.

110v -120v in right? 710ma is 7.1 amps I think do you know how many watts the fixture was at the wall?
 
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