Bridgelux Vero 29 Se, Possible Heat Issues, Not sure what it can be

spoonayyy said:

Correct

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Thanks heat problem and smell is sorted, removed heatsink tape was burned and add thermal paste and sorted, pumped them up to 37.8v and no problem, heatsinks get hot when fans are off but when on they keep real nice and cool

HalfBee said:

Nope, not on the LRS those pump out the full current ALL THE TIME if you want to limit you need something like the LDD buck converters.
Talk to the folks over at RapidLED about that type of driver and they'll tell you why what you are doing is so dangerous.
Ran Vero 18 and 13 with LRS for years with LDD drivers...

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I have a LSR-150f-24 its rated 154w 24vdc@6.5A they arent constant current drivers. Its adjustable 21.6vdc to 28.8vdc the rating is 24vdc@6.5A if you go above that. Say 26.5vdc the current should drop to keep the output at 150-154w I dont think the current stays at 6.5a bc if it did it would put out 172.25w which isnt what the driver is rated for. So I'm pretty sure the current drops to 5.811A but you're saying yours puts out 9amp at no matter the voltage setting? I'm assuming you have the LRS-350-36 puts out 9.7A adjustable from 32.4vdc to 39.6vdc doesnt it put out 9.7A @ 36.01vdc give or take. And above that the current lowers to maintain the 350w. So at 38.5vdc the current would only be 9.09A wouldnt it? Or is the driver that far underrated and pushed 39.6vdc @9.7A for 384.12w can you confirm the current doesnt drop? Just curious bc I have the LSR150-24 I was gonna use for some H inFlux_L06 strips. But if it doesnt lower the current I dont wanna use it. Bc itll push the strips super hard.

whytewidow said:

I have a LSR-150f-24 its rated 154w 24vdc@6.5A they arent constant current drivers. Its adjustable 21.6vdc to 28.8vdc the rating is 24vdc@6.5A if you go above that. Say 26.5vdc the current should drop to keep the output at 150-154w I dont think the current stays at 6.5a bc if it did it would put out 172.25w which isnt what the driver is rated for. So I'm pretty sure the current drops to 5.811A but you're saying yours puts out 9amp at no matter the voltage setting? I'm assuming you have the LRS-350-36 puts out 9.7A adjustable from 32.4vdc to 39.6vdc doesnt it put out 9.7A @ 36.01vdc give or take. And above that the current lowers to maintain the 350w. So at 38.5vdc the current would only be 9.09A wouldnt it? Or is the driver that far underrated and pushed 39.6vdc @9.7A for 384.12w can you confirm the current doesnt drop? Just curious bc I have the LSR150-24 I was gonna use for some H inFlux_L06 strips. But if it doesnt lower the current I dont wanna use it. Bc itll push the strips super hard.

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The usable amps should drop when the voltage goes up yes for sure, but for my 4 veros i only need 8.4amps about at 37.6v so that should be reachable, i did not test the amperage draw again but it was pulling around there on that voltage when i tested previously. Thanks

john073 said:

The usable amps should drop when the voltage goes up yes for sure, but for my 4 veros i only need 8.4amps about at 37.6v so that should be reachable, i did not test the amperage draw again but it was pulling around there on that voltage when i tested previously. Thanks

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Something isnt right. With the voltage of the driver set exactly at 36.0vdc the driver should push its max amperage 9.7amps over 4 cobs wired in parallel I'm assuming. Each cob should get 2425mA at 36v for 87.3w how are you only getting 8.4A at 37.6vdc that's only 315.84w the driver doesnt put out 315w its gonna push 350w at 37.6vdc you should be right at 9.308A not 8.4A

Edit: or am I missing something

whytewidow said:

Something isnt right. With the voltage of the driver set exactly at 36.0vdc the driver should push its max amperage 9.7amps over 4 cobs wired in parallel I'm assuming. Each cob should get 2425mA at 36v for 87.3w how are you only getting 8.4A at 37.6vdc that's only 315.84w the driver doesnt put out 315w its gonna push 350w at 37.6vdc you should be right at 9.308A not 8.4A

Edit: or am I missing something

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The driver does not push out its max because it has it to push out, it only gives out what is needed by the lights, and the lights only need 8.4A at 37.6v, if they needed more lets say 10A then the driver would give out its max

john073 said:

The driver does not push out its max because it has it to push out, it only gives out what is needed by the lights, and the lights only need 8.4A at 37.6v, if they needed more lets say 10A then the driver would give out its max

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I always thought LSR were set to push the full amperage at their rated voltage. No matter what. Like the lrs350 is rated at 36.0vdc and 9.701A

So you've actually put a meter on it and it's only pulling the 8.4A and not 9.308A?

whytewidow said:

I always thought LSR were set to push the full amperage at their rated voltage. No matter what. Like the lrs350 is rated at 36.0vdc and 9.701A

So you've actually put a meter on it and it's only pulling the 8.4A and not 9.308A?

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Yes, i tested them on a lower voltage aswell i think it was like 35.5v and the 4 veros where pulling like 3A if i remember right, i have a a 48v LRS350 aswell with 3 samsung led strips on them and they are also not pulling the full amperage

john073 said:

Yes, i tested them on a lower voltage aswell i think it was like 35.5v and the 4 veros where pulling like 3A if i remember right, i have a a 48v LRS350 aswell with 3 samsung led strips on them and they are also not pulling the full amperage

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That's the reason I had been buying HLG series. Bc I thought the LRS series pushed the max all the time. And here all this time I couldve saved a bunch of money lol.

whytewidow said:

That's the reason I had been buying HLG series. Bc I thought the LRS series pushed the max all the time. And here all this time I couldve saved a bunch of money lol.

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Yeah that was what i was thinking aswell but then i thought rite id buy these to test and worked out good, i think only problem is when you thermal runaway then the item will pull all the amps it can get and nothing limiting it but that can happen when something fails in the component(light) you are using

I have a LRS-150f-24 that I wanted to run H inFlux_L06 strips on. Bc it adjusts voltage clear down to 21.6vdc and the strips at typ are 22.4vdc @1430mA over 5 strips. Its rated at 6.5A and I didnt wanna push them that hard with the full 6.5a so I didnt use them and have been buying hlg series for almost double the price. But if it works the was you're saying if I set it at 22.4vdc each strip will the 1430mA they are rated at. For that voltage. For 4.560A and not the full 6.5A

john073 said:

Yeah that was what i was thinking aswell but then i thought rite id buy these to test and worked out good, i think only problem is when you thermal runaway then the item will pull all the amps it can get and nothing limiting it but that can happen when something fails in the component(light) you are using

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Might be able to put a resistor in series with the cobs to balance it. To stop thermal runaway. I'm not 100% on that.

Edit: or a dc fuse. Jus incase to save the leds.

whytewidow said:

I have a LRS-150f-24 that I wanted to run H inFlux_L06 strips on. Bc it adjusts voltage clear down to 21.6vdc and the strips at typ are 22.4vdc @1430mA over 5 strips. Its rated at 6.5A and I didnt wanna push them that hard with the full 6.5a so I didnt use them and have been buying hlg series for almost double the price. But if it works the was you're saying if I set it at 22.4vdc each strip will the 1430mA they are rated at. For that voltage. For 4.560A and not the full 6.5A

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Thhat is correct yes,

whytewidow said:

Might be able to put a resistor in series with the cobs to balance it. To stop thermal runaway. I'm not 100% on that.

Edit: or a dc fuse. Jus incase to save the leds.

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Hi, yes there is something you can add, i did not go for that option though, will add it maybe later on, but yeah im not expert lol, you can possibly ask some of the wise guys on carbonite that work with this stuff a lot one guy told me what i could add but that wouldnt work for me because my cobs amps that they use are to high up

john073 said:

Thhat is correct yes,

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Yeah big difference in price. I got the LRS150 for 18.99 shipped to my door. And the hlg150 is 50ish shipped.

john073 said:

Hi, yes there is something you can add, i did not go for that option though, will add it maybe later on, but yeah im not expert lol, you can possibly ask some of the wise guys on carbonite that work with this stuff a lot one guy told me what i could add but that wouldnt work for me because my cobs amps that they use are to high up

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You could probably find a 3amp DC inline fuse. If you're running at 2.5A and something happens that causes thermal runaway and the amperage starts to rise. And say your cons max out 4500mA just a guess idk what the veros are rated for. But put a 3amp dc fuse in series on the positive side and if they start pulling too much it will pop the fuse and in turn cut the DC+ side of the feed to the cob.

whytewidow said:

Yeah big difference in price. I got the LRS150 for 18.99 shipped to my door. And the hlg150 is 50ish shipped.

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My problem was budget lol so i had to choose smaller light or the LRS

whytewidow said:

You could probably find a 3amp DC inline fuse. If you're running at 2.5A and something happens that causes thermal runaway and the amperage starts to rise. And say your cons max out 4500mA just a guess idk what the veros are rated for. But put a 3amp dc fuse in series on the positive side and if they start pulling too much it will pop the fuse and in turn cut the DC+ side of the feed to the cob.

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Souns like something that can work yes

john073 said:

My problem was budget lol so i had to choose smaller light or the LRS

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I'm all about budget man. I've built 2 Samsung F Series Gen 3 strip lights. With single row f562b strips. The second light has 7 strips. Spaced out. And I got a great deal on the H inFlux_L06's so I figured why not put em inbetween the F series strips. So that's what I'm doing. And I still need a driver. I've had the LRS for awhile and nvr used it. Bc I thought that about the amperage on them. Pushing max all the time. So I never used it. But now that I know that I can use it. So now I get use out of it. And save money by not having to buy another HLG.

whytewidow said:

I'm all about budget man. I've built 2 Samsung F Series Gen 3 strip lights. With single row f562b strips. The second light has 7 strips. Spaced out. And I got a great deal on the H inFlux_L06's so I figured why not put em inbetween the F series strips. So that's what I'm doing. And I still need a driver. I've had the LRS for awhile and nvr used it. Bc I thought that about the amperage on them. Pushing max all the time. So I never used it. But now that I know that I can use it. So now I get use out of it. And save money by not having to buy another HLG.

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Yeah definately save some money on that, dont get me wrong on the long run the HLG are the way to go probably but on a budget LRS is it for me

Not tryna hijack your thread or anything.

Second one I built. (4) Sammy F562b 560mm 4ks running on a HLG-150H-24B (3) Sammy F562b 560mm 3ks running on a HLG-120h-24A. And (2) older Cree cobs I had laying around. Cxa3050s in 4k running on a 1800mA CC Chinese driver in parallel so only getting 900mA each. But they were designed to each be a driver. 1800mA I got 4 drivers and 4 cobs. But only used two cobs and 1 driver.. Mounted on cpu heatsinks active cooling. I'm not a cob fan. So I'm pulling them off. And putting the new L06s I jus ordered in the gaps between the sammies.

Running just over 330 watts in a 32x32 tent. Flower only. Just over 45w per sqft.


First one I built. (10) Samsung F562b in 3k on a HLG-320H-24B driver. (5) Samsung Sunboards 96 lm561c diodes in 2700k on a HLG-240-24B driver. And (4) custom made 120 diode copper pcb strips. 60 of each Far red and 660nm HE Photo reds. Alternated. So they blend together. On a Meanwell LPV-60 driver. But I made custom heatsinks so I saved a ton of money with not having to buy anything. I just took 2x2 thickwall aluminum tubing. And cut 3 sidesi. And mounted the strips on the uncut side. And then mounted 50mm × 50mm PC fans on each tube inside on one end. And I used sonoff wireless switches to control everything. It has a temp sensor that controls 120v switch. So I mounted the thermocouple inside the heatsink right against the backside of the led. And set points for the fans to kick on n off with the sensor. So they dont run all the time. All controlled from my phone anywhere.