Anyone know about Ecoscraps? Opinions

Budley Doright said:

Is there no nutrient analysis on the package? Without that it's hard to tell. Probably fine for the first stages then your plants will let you know if they're hungry but my compost is pretty good for at least a month then I introduce blood and bone meal as well as other things slowly.

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420BongRips said:

No nutrient analysis. I will be adding a bunch of stuff to my soil when I use it

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420BongRips said:

I bought this organic compost and wanted to know if anyone here has ever had any experience using it or knows he about it and how good it is. I need to know how nutrient rich it is because I want to add my own nutrients if it's weak.

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Richard Drysift said:

Compost is the driver of your soil but does not always contain actual nutrients to feed plants with. Compost should contain high populations of active soil microbes, fungus, and bacteria that breathe, fart, fuck, fight, & consume each other which very slowly breaks down all organic matter. Decomposition is what makes dry soil amendments like blood & bone meal available to the plants root systems. Synthetic nutrients can kill microbial life by drying out their bodies; that's why a lot of soil growers ditch their bottles. The plants don't care they just want food and nutrients are available to them without the need for microbes to break them down which is why a sterile medium works well with nutes.
If you plan to use compost in your grow you should mix it in with some good fresh soil and fertilizer or your choice. Then all they will need is water for pretty much the whole grow if you have them in a big enough container.
Compost needs time to break down anything you add in so its a good idea to mix it all up & let it set for up to a month before putting your plant in it. This is not necessary if you are adding stuff that's already composted like chicken manure or guano. If you want to give blood/bone meal and/or minerals like azomite that does need to be "cooked" for 30 days. The beautiful thing about doing organics is you can easily recycle your soil by adding more compost and amendments to your old root balls & break them up & reuse the soil over & over. Your mix gets even better with each recycle.

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Budley Doright said:

So I've been doing it wrong by just adding the bone and blood meal to the top of the soil in the container and working it in should I have a pile of compost and just add it to that, then add the mix to the plant? Sorry to stray from topic . Soil is way to complicated lol.

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Richard Drysift said:

Compost is the driver of your soil but does not always contain actual nutrients to feed plants with. Compost should contain high populations of active soil microbes, fungus, and bacteria that breathe, fart, fuck, fight, & consume each other which very slowly breaks down all organic matter. Decomposition is what makes dry soil amendments like blood & bone meal available to the plants root systems. Synthetic nutrients can kill microbial life by drying out their bodies; that's why a lot of soil growers ditch their bottles. The plants don't care they just want food and nutrients are available to them without the need for microbes to break them down which is why a sterile medium works well with nutes.
If you plan to use compost in your grow you should mix it in with some good fresh soil and fertilizer or your choice. Then all they will need is water for pretty much the whole grow if you have them in a big enough container.
Compost needs time to break down anything you add in so its a good idea to mix it all up & let it set for up to a month before putting your plant in it. This is not necessary if you are adding stuff that's already composted like chicken manure or guano. If you want to give blood/bone meal and/or minerals like azomite that does need to be "cooked" for 30 days. The beautiful thing about doing organics is you can easily recycle your soil by adding more compost and amendments to your old root balls & break them up & reuse the soil over & over. Your mix gets even better with each recycle.

Click to expand...

Richard Drysift said:

If it has no numbers on it its just compost with no fertilizer. It will be good for your plants but you'll also need fertilizer or a fertilized mix. I like FFOF or equivalent but any good garden soil like black gold will work. Look for the NPK numbers

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Richard Drysift said:

Compost is the driver of your soil but does not always contain actual nutrients to feed plants with. Compost should contain high populations of active soil microbes, fungus, and bacteria that breathe, fart, fuck, fight, & consume each other which very slowly breaks down all organic matter. Decomposition is what makes dry soil amendments like blood & bone meal available to the plants root systems. Synthetic nutrients can kill microbial life by drying out their bodies; that's why a lot of soil growers ditch their bottles. The plants don't care they just want food and nutrients are available to them without the need for microbes to break them down which is why a sterile medium works well with nutes.
If you plan to use compost in your grow you should mix it in with some good fresh soil and fertilizer or your choice. Then all they will need is water for pretty much the whole grow if you have them in a big enough container.
Compost needs time to break down anything you add in so its a good idea to mix it all up & let it set for up to a month before putting your plant in it. This is not necessary if you are adding stuff that's already composted like chicken manure or guano. If you want to give blood/bone meal and/or minerals like azomite that does need to be "cooked" for 30 days. The beautiful thing about doing organics is you can easily recycle your soil by adding more compost and amendments to your old root balls & break them up & reuse the soil over & over. Your mix gets even better with each recycle.

Click to expand...