Anyone know about Ecoscraps? Opinions

420BongRips

Well-Known Member
I bought this organic compost and wanted to know if anyone here has ever had any experience using it or knows he about it and how good it is. I need to know how nutrient rich it is because I want to add my own nutrients if it's weak.
 

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Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Is there no nutrient analysis on the package? Without that it's hard to tell. Probably fine for the first stages then your plants will let you know if they're hungry but my compost is pretty good for at least a month then I introduce blood and bone meal as well as other things slowly.
 

420BongRips

Well-Known Member
Is there no nutrient analysis on the package? Without that it's hard to tell. Probably fine for the first stages then your plants will let you know if they're hungry but my compost is pretty good for at least a month then I introduce blood and bone meal as well as other things slowly.
No nutrient analysis. I will be adding a bunch of stuff to my soil when I use it
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
I bought this organic compost and wanted to know if anyone here has ever had any experience using it or knows he about it and how good it is. I need to know how nutrient rich it is because I want to add my own nutrients if it's weak.
Compost is the driver of your soil but does not always contain actual nutrients to feed plants with. Compost should contain high populations of active soil microbes, fungus, and bacteria that breathe, fart, fuck, fight, & consume each other which very slowly breaks down all organic matter. Decomposition is what makes dry soil amendments like blood & bone meal available to the plants root systems. Synthetic nutrients can kill microbial life by drying out their bodies; that's why a lot of soil growers ditch their bottles. The plants don't care they just want food and nutrients are available to them without the need for microbes to break them down which is why a sterile medium works well with nutes.
If you plan to use compost in your grow you should mix it in with some good fresh soil and fertilizer or your choice. Then all they will need is water for pretty much the whole grow if you have them in a big enough container.
Compost needs time to break down anything you add in so its a good idea to mix it all up & let it set for up to a month before putting your plant in it. This is not necessary if you are adding stuff that's already composted like chicken manure or guano. If you want to give blood/bone meal and/or minerals like azomite that does need to be "cooked" for 30 days. The beautiful thing about doing organics is you can easily recycle your soil by adding more compost and amendments to your old root balls & break them up & reuse the soil over & over. Your mix gets even better with each recycle.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Compost is the driver of your soil but does not always contain actual nutrients to feed plants with. Compost should contain high populations of active soil microbes, fungus, and bacteria that breathe, fart, fuck, fight, & consume each other which very slowly breaks down all organic matter. Decomposition is what makes dry soil amendments like blood & bone meal available to the plants root systems. Synthetic nutrients can kill microbial life by drying out their bodies; that's why a lot of soil growers ditch their bottles. The plants don't care they just want food and nutrients are available to them without the need for microbes to break them down which is why a sterile medium works well with nutes.
If you plan to use compost in your grow you should mix it in with some good fresh soil and fertilizer or your choice. Then all they will need is water for pretty much the whole grow if you have them in a big enough container.
Compost needs time to break down anything you add in so its a good idea to mix it all up & let it set for up to a month before putting your plant in it. This is not necessary if you are adding stuff that's already composted like chicken manure or guano. If you want to give blood/bone meal and/or minerals like azomite that does need to be "cooked" for 30 days. The beautiful thing about doing organics is you can easily recycle your soil by adding more compost and amendments to your old root balls & break them up & reuse the soil over & over. Your mix gets even better with each recycle.
So I've been doing it wrong by just adding the bone and blood meal to the top of the soil in the container and working it in :( should I have a pile of compost and just add it to that, then add the mix to the plant? Sorry to stray from topic :(. Soil is way to complicated lol.
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
So I've been doing it wrong by just adding the bone and blood meal to the top of the soil in the container and working it in :( should I have a pile of compost and just add it to that, then add the mix to the plant? Sorry to stray from topic :(. Soil is way to complicated lol.
No you can top dress with those but just know that it will take time for what you add to become available to the plants. If you wanted blood or bone meal to be there for your plants on day 1 then yes you can add it 30 days beforehand and just let it set, hydrated of course. Some minerals like soft rock phosphate must be cooked in or it can cause issues later on. You can always add compost because it's already broken down; a lot of no till growers simply mix up their containers & let it set for a month before adding plants. Growing in soil is very simple but microbiology is not. I suggest checking out these 2 books that were a game changer for me:
True Living Organics by The Rev
Teaming with Microbes by Lowenfelds and Lewis
 

420BongRips

Well-Known Member
Compost is the driver of your soil but does not always contain actual nutrients to feed plants with. Compost should contain high populations of active soil microbes, fungus, and bacteria that breathe, fart, fuck, fight, & consume each other which very slowly breaks down all organic matter. Decomposition is what makes dry soil amendments like blood & bone meal available to the plants root systems. Synthetic nutrients can kill microbial life by drying out their bodies; that's why a lot of soil growers ditch their bottles. The plants don't care they just want food and nutrients are available to them without the need for microbes to break them down which is why a sterile medium works well with nutes.
If you plan to use compost in your grow you should mix it in with some good fresh soil and fertilizer or your choice. Then all they will need is water for pretty much the whole grow if you have them in a big enough container.
Compost needs time to break down anything you add in so its a good idea to mix it all up & let it set for up to a month before putting your plant in it. This is not necessary if you are adding stuff that's already composted like chicken manure or guano. If you want to give blood/bone meal and/or minerals like azomite that does need to be "cooked" for 30 days. The beautiful thing about doing organics is you can easily recycle your soil by adding more compost and amendments to your old root balls & break them up & reuse the soil over & over. Your mix gets even better with each recycle.
Thanks, Im buying an npk meter and some soils today but I'm still working sering how good this organic compost is. I'd imagine it is decent for my plants :)
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
If it has no numbers on it its just compost with no fertilizer. It will be good for your plants but you'll also need fertilizer or a fertilized mix. I like FFOF or equivalent but any good garden soil like black gold will work. Look for the NPK numbers
 

420BongRips

Well-Known Member
If it has no numbers on it its just compost with no fertilizer. It will be good for your plants but you'll also need fertilizer or a fertilized mix. I like FFOF or equivalent but any good garden soil like black gold will work. Look for the NPK numbers
Yup I will be adding Espoma, Fox Farms and Bioag Cytoplus humid acid. :D
 

GrnMonStr

Well-Known Member
I just bought a bag of this and mixed a little of my own compost, and some organic humus & manure that was $1.50 a bag that was hard to pass up. I also added a lot of perlite and some sand as well as bone meal and blood meal. Letting this mixture sit outside damp and over time will be adding worm castings to it. I am using FFOF now and it seems like a good soil, with lots off good things added, but a little pricey to buy all the time.

I want to learn more about the natural microbes and will be reading the books that "Richard Drysift" recommended. I think ensuring that a soil has these microbes in abundance is key to growing organic when using soil. I just wonder now how will I know I have enough or when the soil is ready to use?
 

420BongRips

Well-Known Member
I use a whole selection of additives to these ecoscraps. Amazing soil and has brought me far into this grow. Been dormant for a while due to being busy, will provide some info in a new thread.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Compost is the driver of your soil but does not always contain actual nutrients to feed plants with. Compost should contain high populations of active soil microbes, fungus, and bacteria that breathe, fart, fuck, fight, & consume each other which very slowly breaks down all organic matter. Decomposition is what makes dry soil amendments like blood & bone meal available to the plants root systems. Synthetic nutrients can kill microbial life by drying out their bodies; that's why a lot of soil growers ditch their bottles. The plants don't care they just want food and nutrients are available to them without the need for microbes to break them down which is why a sterile medium works well with nutes.
If you plan to use compost in your grow you should mix it in with some good fresh soil and fertilizer or your choice. Then all they will need is water for pretty much the whole grow if you have them in a big enough container.
Compost needs time to break down anything you add in so its a good idea to mix it all up & let it set for up to a month before putting your plant in it. This is not necessary if you are adding stuff that's already composted like chicken manure or guano. If you want to give blood/bone meal and/or minerals like azomite that does need to be "cooked" for 30 days. The beautiful thing about doing organics is you can easily recycle your soil by adding more compost and amendments to your old root balls & break them up & reuse the soil over & over. Your mix gets even better with each recycle.
Oh, I like how you said that!

EWC and my well composted Cow/Steer manure = Gold standard of myco diversity!
 
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