ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Nothing wrong with the color. Mine developed more as well.
I've had no such problems with underripe nugs beneath the tops.
10,000 Watt 10 Plant 13 Gallon Rdwc [3d Model Incl. Inside Thread]
- Thread starter CCCmints
- Start date
I've had no such problems with underripe nugs beneath the tops.
BabyLobsterito
Active Member
I've most likely made a mistake somewhere down the line, I'm sure... Because my tops were purpling around week 4, and still are a slight lavender tinge, but none of the bottoms are purple, they're a nice typical shade of green as usual. Wednesday 10-6-17 was day one of week 6, and it still isn't getting much of a swell. There are so many variables though, that I think I'm better off just letting it finish out and starting out next run without these terrible designs
BabyLobsterito
Active Member
I also noticed that the purple coloration is more of a gradient, darker on top and quickly fades out as it reaches the lowest bud of the cola. I should note that all foliage blocking light to the lower branches has been periodically removed, so the lowers are definitely getting light, just not nearly as much.
BabyLobsterito
Active Member
I had no choice at first lol. This clone came through our door and within 10 seconds of inspection (I didn't go to pick it up, I stay home with the ladies) I saw that it was the beginning of a spider mite circus
So I started pruning away the affected foliage and gave her a good rinse until I was able to pick up some neem...Now, because of the lack of sealed/contained environment and control, the poor air circulation, and the automated watering being out of my control (I'm not a programmer) has caused a lovely fungus gnat cabana to develop in the topsoil. Luckily I've only got a week and a half left, and the guy who made this atrocity decided to back out for a multitude of reasons. So next crop is a fresh start.
BabyLobsterito
Active Member
Tried clay aggregate but I figured it wouldn't help much, and it hasn't. I've been reading about the 3% solution, I'm probably going to go that route. Other than the layer of aggregate on the topsoil, I tried a mild neem emulsion but it only worked for a day. I didn't want to spray the topsoil everyday and risk feeding my plants neem, I've smoked some flowers with residual neem in them and dear god...
Lucky Luke
Well-Known Member
if the eggs or whatever have already been laid then adding a top layer like Perlite wont help that cycle. It will however stop the next cycle.
BabyLobsterito
Active Member
Mental note taken, thank you for that. I plan on purchasing a large amount of perlite in the near future, i'll add the top layer before the problem even arises next run.
ANC
Well-Known Member
You want lots of blue light in your under canopy lights to increase transpiration.
Never heard of using clay but you could try topping with diatomaceous sand, it is very cheap and available at the hydro place.
BabyLobsterito
Active Member
I'll try the cool spectrum for the transpiration, as I don't recall reading about that before, and I love to experiment.
The clay wasn't so much a preference/choice, it was all I had available to use at the time. This was supposed to be a 3-way project but person #3 never wanted to contribute but wants to reap the benefits, and as of today he bailed, so his share will be equal to his contributions and what I had to work with (my budget has become very limited)
BabyLobsterito
Active Member
Ok, I'll do that. It's only a 3gal Aurora pot so it won't take much. I reset the water controller (unplugged it) so it would go a day without watering, then did it again to dry out the soil as I noticed it's slightly over watered. No more gnats flying around, but I'm not ruling out that the larvae didn't just push down further to the moisture. I can't wait until this plant gets chopped and the insect habitat can go back to its owner... 1.5 weeks left.
That's some good power, can't wait to hear how it works out. Looks like its putting out some good Lux
BabyLobsterito
Active Member
Damn, that's a solid canopy lol. Plants look very good by the way. It definitely lit up the bottoms!
BabyLobsterito
Active Member
Nice. I love the idea of things being modular/swappable.
atriumfall1
Member
I started a Medical Grow when prop 215 first was passed, was licensed by the State of California and ran one of the first approved Outdoor Grows in Santa Clara county. I have been doing this for 20 years. Both "Endo" and "Outdo". Your plants are impressive. But these are the Strain. Say for example Gold leaf will produce colas that look like Coke Bottles. But the quality is sub par. There are of course strains that grow huge and big, that means crap. Things like OG which is popular in say Los Angeles, wont ever grow this big without massive PGRs.
No it is not possible to get 8lbs a plant as some one said which is what I responded to. Further more, it is a complete waste of time to grow 1 plant per light as the op suggested. NO LED is not as good in my own opinion after actually using them as HPS or Ceramic lighting. I am not gonna argue this very silly argument that has been posted thousands of times on this and other boards.
No it is not possible to get 8lbs a plant as some one said which is what I responded to. Further more, it is a complete waste of time to grow 1 plant per light as the op suggested. NO LED is not as good in my own opinion after actually using them as HPS or Ceramic lighting. I am not gonna argue this very silly argument that has been posted thousands of times on this and other boards.
Lucky Luke
Well-Known Member
Depends on the climate of where you live but 8 elbows per plant is a achievable target with the right strain
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=175243
Stltoed
Well-Known Member
What about food grade DE(diatomatious earth)? That stuff clobbers little beasties
GreenLogician
Well-Known Member
DE needs to be dry to be effective, doesn't it?
Then watering through a top layer of it would make it permeable to them for a bit.
Then watering through a top layer of it would make it permeable to them for a bit.
CCCmints
Well-Known Member
Yeah, its a silly argument because the correct choice has been proven.
CCCmints
Well-Known Member
Most, yes, but I've seen a few with a lot of posts/likes and even some nice grows showcased on their profile. I think it really boils down to people having success with HPS (because yes, they do in fact work...) and they aren't willing to put the work into figuring out if LED is now a better alternative. Having only ever grown with HPS before, and only just recently beginning serious research into the subject, I completely understand where those people are coming from. The research is hard. You have to dive into some very complex material and spend a lot of time figuring out what LED configuration works best for your specific circumstances. Its just a lot more complicated than HPS: "hey guys i have a 4x4 space how much light should i use?" - "easy bro just throw a 1k watt hps in there and make sure you have adequate cooling!" - "ok thanks man!"
The LED conversation is a bit more elaborate than that lol. People just don't want to put in the effort to learn for themselves. I'm confident I won't get an argument in favor of HPS over LED that will change my mind. But you know what the funny part is? I want that! If someone has a real argument that leads me to the best lighting system for my grow, then I want it! Lol...I'm not a LED re-seller. I don't profit from advocating LED. I just want to grow in the most efficient way I can and produce the best buds I can.
BTW...
I see this thread has become fairly active. That's pretty cool so I'd like to pose this question to you folks here and see what you think.
We've all heard of vertical growing, standard horizontal growing, supplemental lighting as well for the sides of the plant, but I've never seen a serious discussion on the benefit of surrounding the entire plant with light. Almost like keeping the plant enclosed in a cylinder of light with light also shooting upwards from the bottom of the plant. I'd like to experiment with that. My idea is, regardless of what lighting system you choose, the operation pays for the lights and eventually you are profiting, and with the benefit of not needing to change bulbs often with LED as you would HPS I'm wondering how this would work out...
I've decided when I make the move to Colorado I'm going to stay within the plant limit. This allows me to give each plant as much light as achieving an optimal outcome requires. If it were a warehouse or something I see how the added cost would deter someone from doing this. But with a limited amount of plants, I'd have no problem putting way more money into the cost of lights per plant.
Anyone want to chime in on this?
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