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another update on the fox farm nutes in dwc- i have learned that i need to use half strength or my plants get burned. might just be the high ppm i start with before adding nutes: 580ppm after PHing the water but before adding nutes. gonna test this with r/o water. it seems as long as i don't let...

that was just an assumption about the water being that expensive, now that i have done research, i realize i was way off. so is this hard tap water with high ppm's the reason i am getting brown slimy roots or could that be over fertilizing? i have also read that it may be caused by some light...

isn't ro water like $3 a gallon? i have 6 5gal buckets, that would be more than $30 for water alone each time i switch out my water. is it possible i'm not testing it right? i calibrated the tds meter already...

It is an "eco testr" only 1 e in "testr" and it says "tds low" on it...

was the pump running while you were cleaning it?

ok thanks all who responded so quickly! just so i understand correctly, when fox farm says 1280ppm, they mean 1280ppm total, not add 1280ppm of nutes to the tap water. i want to only add 700ppm of nutes to my 580ppm tap water?

hi i have a question about how to set the ppm in my dwc. i have heard that if you want 1000ppm for your res, add nutes to the water and when the ppm reads 1000ppm, you're golden. i have also heard that if your water starts at 500ppm, and you want 1000ppm, you add 1000ppm of nutes, making it...

just an update on my last post, the fox farm nutes seem to be doing just fine in the dwc as long as i keep the res temps below 72. so is it not necessary to flush in dwc unless you over-nute your plants? if you were to flush in dwc, do you just use plain water just in the res or do you pour...

Merlin, What if exhausting the room is not possible? Would a bigger pump for the icebox work? I have a grow cab that is completely sealed, no air exhausted. I have 449cfm fan in the cab blowing right at the light and the icebox.

mrduke, when you say "more water" that is referring to a larger reservoir, but what does "more air" mean? larger fan? also, i have a 35 gal reservoir, do you think i should upgrade? or should i insulate it? it's a plastic garbage can, any suggestions are welcome.

sweet! thanks flo!

i do not have more than 10 feet of lift. anyone think a more powerful pump would help?

that is actually a dehumidifier for when the plants are bigger and making the room more humid. it's kind of a vicious cycle though, if the humidity is high the dehumidifier is on, creating more heat and then the chiller needs to be colder, causing condensation, which seems to make the humidity...

first pic is my cab. second pic is of the chiller, which is in the other room with black tubing running from the chiller under the door to the reservoir and the ice box. third pic is the whole cab open. i flower on the left side and veg on the right side. fourth pic is the veg side. fifth is the...

i had a 1/4 hp chiller before because the hydro shop said it should be sufficient to cool in my situation. the chiller ran all the time-did not ever turn off and didn't really chill all that much, so i got the 1hp chiller. it does chill way better than the smaller one, and it only turns on like...

i have a 1hp chiller and a 400watt light with a 6 inch ice box. i am having the same problems, but should i upgrade to a bigger reservoir or a larger water pump? i have a 633gph and i am wondering if it would be worth it to get the 1584gph or higher? anyone have any thoughts on this or any...

yep that would be ideal but i do live in an apartment so my wife said no drilling holes in walls. do you think it would be worth it to still buy the larger pump since i can't extract the heat? i would really like to get my temps down to 80ish if possible so my nute res temps will go down. i have...

ok i went to a different hydro shop and the guy said as long as i keep my res temps in check, i should be fine with little to no fermentation. i am gonna go for it and i will report back to let you guys know how it goes.

ok sweet! flo- what does if extraction is up to par mean? are you referring to heat extraction? also this may be a question for a different thread, but does anyone think that if i went from a 633gph to a 1584gph water pump that i may have better luck with getting rid of the heat?