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The reason most people run leds is that they are more efficient at producing PAR light while using less power, producing less wasted heat and doing so for many times longer than HID. Upfront cost with led is higher but is offset by the efficiency and longevity advantages. Driving them hard...

The 2700k Vero has more in the deep red range than the 3000k Cree. Efficiency wise, the Cree is better when comparing like colors and cri but not by a great deal. I like the Vero chips. So far I have built 4 lights using the Vero 10 and 13 chips. I run them a bit soft to get higher efficiency...

You only need a single pole switch. The ground side doesn't need to be switched. Better yet, switch the feed line to the driver.

I run 1 mother plant and use one of these. http://www.amazon.com/Philips-423426-19-5-Watt-120-Watt-Dimmable/dp/B008RWSC94/ref=sr_1_21?s=lamps-light&srs=2530135011&ie=UTF8&qid=1395671757&sr=1-21&keywords=philips+led I removed the lens to spread the light out. 5000k is perfect for veg. This...

Those heatsinks should be more than enough for the Vero 18. I agree with the fan noise may be high at 12v. A potentiometer or a 5-6v power supply should reduce the noise while still providing adequate airflow.

It my be that calcium was locked out because the ph was low. Nutrient lockouts often occur when ph gets out of range. Your runoff should be closer to 7 than to 5. You may not need to use anything special on your next grow if you start with and keep the ph within normal ranges.

I use that silicone based stuff on everything. I love it because the led stars are easy to replace although in 2+ years I have not had to replace a single one out of the few hundred I have burning.

Ground up egg shells are a good source of Calcium. Grind them into a fine powder and either mix into your water or just sprinkle the powder onto the top soil and water through it. It isn't as fast or good as Calmag but it should help.

That looks like a calcium deficiency. Give it a good flush with water and after a few days give it some calmag with your normal nutrients. I like General Hydroponic's CaliMagic. Also, with your current setup, you should follow A51's guidelines. Maybe a little closer but the tight lens angle...

Those T5HO lights will definitely give you more punch. 6500k has too much blue for optimum flowering. It will work but you will get bigger and frostier buds if you use a warmer color. 2700k is good for flowering.

You should be able to yield 3 ounces with the light you have. Supplementing with CFL will improve that. For flowering, which is where you will benefit most from added light, 2700k is a good spectrum to look for. I don't actually use all of the lighting I have until the final month of...

The light you have should grow out one plant nicely. If you end up with more than one female, you will benefit from more light. CFLs or T5s would work for supplemental. Your light probably uses around 200w at the plug. I use 400-500w of LED and grow 2 at a time. Usual yield is around 6oz...

I found this http://www.ia.ucsb.edu/pa/display.aspx?pkey=3156 interesting and encouraging. We may yet see that high efficiency in a few more years.

The E designates the 80CRI, G=90CRI, H=97CRI. There higher CRI LEDs typically have a lower Lumen/watt output. I suggest going for the higher output. The discussion about 5000k/2700k 2:1 is valid for flower only for sure. I was trying to get you the most lumens with a good spectrum for both...

Very nice. Another great example of how capable LED really is. Only LED could do that with only 100 watts. That ought to look awesome by the time it's ready!

The 5000k has pretty good spectral coverage with a real nice peak at 450nm and has some red although not enough for flower IMHO. That's where the 2700k balances it. When the 660/470 chips are added all of the major peaks get covered. Apachetech makes lights that are heavy on the 5000k and...

The Vero is an excellent choice. I would use the Vero 13 and drive it at 300ma. The reasons for under driving them is that they are more efficient (lumen/watt) at lower amperages and they make less heat as well. Here is the vero13 data sheet...

That's a great price for the driver. I like it better than the more costly one I suggested because it runs a little lower amperage. Leds are more efficient when driven under the rated amperage plus they don't get as hot. I've been tossing around building a small panel using Bridgelux Vero 18...

Looking good! Now you could, if you desire, do a little strategic defoliation to get light to the lower bud sites of your plants. I just remove the oldest leaves that are also blocking light to the lower parts. Nothing crazy. Just a little makes a big difference. It will increase your...

What you need are constant current drivers. Use one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/30W-High-Power-LED-Driver-Waterproof-Transformator-DC-24-38V-1000mA-/190929476028?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c744899bc drivers for each of the 30w chips. Make sure you have adequate heat sinking/cooling!