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I got my new setup going. I'm still using my 1k, as I wait for the money for some QBs. Water temp without the 4"inline fan, and ducting blowing on the water, 77 degrees. With the ambient house air being 68 degrees, the water stays at 69 degrees.

I got my new setup going. I'm still using my 1k, as I wait for the money for some QBs. Water temp without the 4"inline fan, and ducting blowing on he water, 77 degrees. With the ambient house air being 68 degrees, the water stays at 69 degrees.

If you're not aware, you should hang your fans from ceiling hooks, as opposed to mounting them on the wall or ceiling. They create a hum that you'll be able to hear all through your house. I'm still organizing, but this is mine right now...

At 60 degrees, you won't need an AC, especially if you're running a sealed hood. It's so much easier to manage when you have the hood air isolated from the grow area. You can also mount your tent exhaust fan and your hood exhaust fan outside of your tent, as they generate heat as well.

LOL, I meant "Only run your fans when the lights are on", not "off". I gotta quit doing big dabs before texting!

When you have everything dialed in, your grow tent will be around 5 to 10 degrees warmer than the room it resides in.

If you run a single 6" fan for your hood, place the fan AFTER the hood. It is much more efficient to draw air than push it. Also, future proofing is usually a good idea, but unless you plan on scaling up to a commercial grow with several 1k lights, and a dedicated air conditioner, you'll never...

And no, don't run your fans all the time, just when the lights are out. When I'm around 2 or 3 weeks into flower, I'll have my tent fan run for 15 minutes, every hour, when the lights are out, to try and prevent moisture buildup with the plants.

You don't need 2 x 6" fans for your hood, if you're isolating your hood from the grow space. A single 6" fan will more than handle it. It's how I've had mine setup for several years now, with a 1000 watt Eye Hort HPS. Along with the 6" fan, get yourself a 4" fan to exhaust the tent air.

Yep, the test kits with the drops are effective. I keep a kit on hand in case I need to see if my pH pen is out of whack.

My post above originally said "terminate", but was supposed to say "germinate". I corrected it, but I wanted you to know, so you knew what I was suggesting you do.

40 degrees is way too cold for them. You don't want anything more than a 15 degree difference between the warmth of day, and the cold of night. Also, learn how to germinate your seeds before putting them in soil, using something like the "paper towel method". You should be okay with a 4"...

What you're going to have to do is learn how to grow weed, from "seed to smoke", because explaining how to grow cannabis cannot be summed up in a thread. There's tons of documentation and video, all for free, on the internet. I highly recommend starting at the GrowWeedEasy website, which can...

I like General Hydroponics' Floro series. Very easy to use, but that's just my preference.

Go to the GrowWeedEasy site and learn tons of what you need to know. Basically, you mix a certain amount of nutrients, based on many factors, such as age, into water, then water the plants. It's beneficial to balance the pH in your water after mixing in the nutrients, but soil acts as a...

I'd keep your light at the same distance, and see how they do with nutrients.

BTW, you should get yourself some red Solo cups, for the outer cups. Roots don't like light. Make sure you've got some holes for drainage as well.

Around he second or third week, just keep an eye on them and they'll let you know when they're needing some. You'll see pretty much what they're doing here.

Soil companies will claim to have 3 weeks worth of fertilizer, but it's more like half that. You're looking at a week while the starts feed them selves, then about a week or two worth of included ferts. Around the second or third week, you can start lightly adding nutes.

It doesn't look like the drooping you get from over/under watering. Kind of looks like nutrient deficiency. Instead of trying to determine the amount of nutrients you're providing, by the amount left in the container, you'd be better off with a TDS meter. They're cheap online. Little ones...