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So I'm pretty excited about the right plant. It's pretty ripe, and the plant is fading out. SIP reservoir is full, but the leaves droop. Is it just old and tired? I'll likely harvest this weekend. I'm very excited to try this one!

This might be the last update here. Moving over to SIPS! So the left plant got super stinky (I call it Mop Closet) and started throwing tons of bananas. I don't think it likes my heavy humus compost. I moved it out of the tent, but where I put it didn't have great access. So rather than fight...

Well, if you're going to plant something, you have to dig a hole. No matter what I plant, I do this and add a bit of compost (and gypsum, for my local conditions). I doubt that level of damage to fungus and bacteria will take long for the soil to repair--especially with plant roots now there...

Exactly! And every time I think about going back to watering by hand--I shudder. Getting close to harvest!

Indeed. It's also a bigger deal in my current setup because my soil is super hot and it's the first run with it. As usual, everything must be taken into account. Like you, I only top-water now when the reservoir is not as full. I tested the reservoir water yesterday and it was basically still...

Folks the last few posts have been talking about top-watering a SIP. I do so fairly regularly, since I mulch with leaves and top-dress with compost/EWC, and am trying for no-till (top-water simulates rain, I guess, and my SIP doesn't soak the top layer into breaking down very well). But I do...

It's a MH TSW-2000, 300 watts. The tent is big enough with enough air exchange that I only get about 2-3dF rise out of it. It's been a good light, but I'll upgrade to something with better coverage (LED strips, probably). Is it just the HLG heating up your space?

It hovers around 70-72dF the whole grow. I keep the tent in a conditioned space and let the LED heat it as much as it wants. I don't do a lot of fine tuning with conditions, and tend to keep it simple. I'm not sure how the low temp and low RH play into VPD or nutrient uptake. Like what you say...

All three grows I have finished involved turning down the lights at about week eight--one grow with a SE HPS, two with a 300W LED. They just start to show heat or light damage. I don't push my plants much. They stay near 72dF and 30% RH, with a small drop in temp at night. Sometimes the RH goes...

Coming along. Love to see the narrow long leaf traits! Had a bad lockout issue and lost about a dozen leaves from each plant last week. I top-water a bit to keep the mulch breaking down and I guess I created too much hydrologic pressure in the soil--which dumped compost tea, basically, into...

I would try a citric acid foliar spray treatment regimen before giving up, if it were me. I'm not sure if such a treatment works on russet mites, but it works great on spider mites--and, incidentally, cucumeris mites. If you do so, just be careful and follow good instructions. Too much citric...

My tent is on my shop slab. Underneath I put those shop pads that interlock together over a layer of cardboard. Insulates the whole tent floor, and I have set five-gallon and 15-gallon pots, and 17-gallon SIPs, right on it with no problems (gets sub-zero F outside for weeks at a time).

Glad you're moving around, was starting to wonder!

This looks more like a wicking bed design! I don't have a lot of experience with those, but I will say this: in that design type, the "wick" is huge (the size of the tote!). I would be worried that would lead to oversaturation, root rot, drowning. I am not saying it will! But I would worry...

Seems like an extra gallon of soil might fit in there. I will be maintaining the air space in my wicking bed. As wet as the soil is, the last thing I need is more surface area contact between soil and water! But for SIPs with wick baskets? Dunno. I would think the wick size and soil makeup...

Plants need actual O2 as well. It's used in breaking down sugars as part of cellular respiration. It's not part of the typical 6CO2 + 6H2O + light = C6H12O6 + 6O2 process to make sugars, so it's not commonly known. But when a plant needs to use its own sugars, O2 is needed (if I understand...

Sure, I've wondered about all this. The roots grow around the gravels in my air gap. I imagine they stay wet, and even contribute to the wicking. But my air gap has always been more functional (less soil saturation), and less chemical (oxygen to roots) in design intent! I also mulch my soil's...

In your system, is there an overfill hole, or do you carefully maintain water level? Air pressure must equalize through the soil if no hole? I can see how this would work with holes only in the bottom of a wick. Is your wick bigger in diameter than those we typically see here? I never thought...

It's gotta be something. The investigation might end up as @weedstoner420 suggests (dump/repack)!

Well, since folks use gravel or 100% perlite for a reservoir wick, I doubt a loose soil would impede the wicking of water, even in peat. Especially if water wicks to the top elsewhere. I suspect something else is going on. Perhaps that side of your SIP is a lot warmer, or it's closer to the...