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There is a saying in the aquarium hobby which goes 'The solution to pollution is dilution', basically the more water volume the longer it takes for toxins to build up. That was my thinking for such a large tote, more water = more stability (but also means more nutes, so it is a trade off). If I...

Pics from today.. starting to get frosty on the leaves, went from smooth fan leaves to bumpy near the base overnight and it is smelling so good today. Played around with fans some more, changing voltages and currents to try and make them as efficient as I can and also keep the noise down, as the...

Maybe it is the 35G of water. I was used to 5G bucket before, and 10 drops would scare me as well. I used to add 3-5 drops max in a 5G bucket when I used to grow. After mixing nutes the pH was 5.2. The bottle does look really old as well even though we just bought it, and may be more diluted...

99% of the time when an LED burns out it still allows current through, meaning only 1 LED will be out. When a string of LEDs goes out that usually means a loose solder connection somewhere in the string. Easiest way to check is just use the continuity setting on the multimeter, the one that...

Did a full rez change yesterday and added 3:2:5 of GH + cal-mag. Ran out of bloom nutes and didn't want to mess up the ratio so was only able to get the PPM up to 700. Getting more nutes today. Also needed to add 100 drops of pH up to raise the pH to 6.0 after adding everything. Added 2 more...

You can make those things much cheaper by just going to your local pet store/wal-mart, picking up some aquarium filter floss (blue+white kind, usually $5 a bag), and a small container of carbon. Cut a rectangle piece, pour carbon on 1/2, fold it over, and tape it to the vent. Probably cost you...

They make A/C LEDs, just not common or useful in this hobby at this time. http://ledsmagazine.com/features/9/7/10

Yes, the black coating on the back is simply to keep it from being scratched, but the light has to go through the glass to reach the silver coating, then bounce back through the glass. It is that process of having to go through the glass twice that reduces its reflectivity. No one is saying...

A mirror is a reflective coated piece of glass with a black backing. So the light has to go through the glass to hit the reflective part, then go back again to reach the plant. That is why mirrors don't work good even though our eyes may seem to tell us otherwise.

I just re-read your problem again. You said "if leave the led for a couple of hours all the lights come back on but after about 10mins or so all but 20 leds go out". So 20 LEDs stay on? Then that would be the bigger driver. What I am not understanding is how it all goes together. I know I can...

You are right, that makes a difference. Very odd way of going about it, most of the time with LEDs when you use multiple drivers you try and make things equal. Still, the label seems wrong. It shouldn't even fire up with an input voltage that low. This is one of the reasons I hate china crap...

It looks like 1 driver is dedicated to the LEDs and a smaller driver is used for the DC fans from the looks of it. Yes, they are both 'drivers', but if you had 2 drivers for the LEDs they would be identical. The input on the smaller driver is what seems odd... not sure how that one is even...

That is better info on the problem. I have seen that issue many times and it isn't a driver issue. Initially you said 1/2 the LEDs wouldn't light up, which made me think there were 2 drivers for the LEDs. After you opened it up it appears to be only 1 driver for the LEDs, so with the problem you...

There are 5 plants in 35G of water, so it looks like I did good with that part. 650ppm seems to be as high as I was comfortable going before I started seeing first signs of nute burn. I read DWC needs less nutes so I figured 650 was high enough. Should I try and push it higher after a full rez...

I am looking for some guidance with nutrients. I am completely clueless in this area. Totally winging it right now. Plants look healthy, no deficiencies are visible on the leaves today, just a tiny touch of nute burn at the tips. Only issue is small patches of powder mold due to slightly...

Thanks for the heads up! I have often wondered if the gauge is accurate, to the point I have replaced the battery 3 times and it is only 2 months old. I look online for the humidity reading in my city (there is a weather station 2 blocks away), then take the gauge outside and it seems to always...

I was a little off on the plant count, it is actually 'less than 90', not 99. Here is the license w/ personal information blacked out.

I am here to learn.. so I appreciate your insights. I agree the Li-Cor meter is much better than the Apogee. With the Apogee you must use the 'Sun' setting to get a semi-accurate reading with LEDs. The electric setting is way off. These are the graphs I go off of for chlorophyll, first one is...

Curious what that would tell you? An example I like to use is 'You can give a plant 2000 PAR but if it is only in the 550nm area it will do nothing for plants, where as you give them 100 PAR of blue/red light they will grow like crazy'. So knowing what the PAR is from 400-700nm doesn't really...

PAR is meaningless when comparing different lighting technologies unless you know the exact spectral output and can measure spectrums independently. Even comparing PAR from a 'white LED' grow to a 'Red/Blue LED' grow doesn't work.