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I mean, you dont need to stop for the sake of "flushing" as that isn't a beneficial practice. But if you WANT to stop feeding, and your plant can survive and be HEALTHY for 2 weeks without feeding her, then sure id stop feeding. But really that's your discretion, not a necessity of...

Yea, so flowering likely wouldn't have started until late august, even early September. Definitely 2-3 more weeks id say just based on what I can find on Google about your light cycles for this year

also, consider your night time temps. You want to avoid frost. And your dealing bugs, so keep that in mind as well... depending on where you live, id say you have a few more weeks left, but it really depends on your region of the world. 14/10 light is when flowering likely would have begun. For...

Hard to tell... pics zoomed in, at best I see blurry Pixelmator trichs where some look clear some look cloudy. Just go old school, clip a small nug off, and dry it. I use a dessicant chamber (damp rid in a closed container with the bud *dont touch bud to chemicals lol*) of some sort to get it...

I personally drop my seeds in a cup of water, and let it sit for a few hours until it pops open and sinks. Then I drop the seed in a 1/2inch deep hole, cover it, and water it in. Usually have a sprout in no more than 3 days.

I'm finding that some of the old growth buds that are lower down on the plant, are having the outer leaves of the calyxs brown and die off, similar to what im seeing in regular leaves. Removed 2 buds just to inspect them further... the stems themselves are green, and the interior of the buds...

Indicas all day every day

Yea its POWERFUL. Did you get the XL heatsink? I didn't and I regret it. I'm also considering dismantling it, adding thermal paste, and putting it back together... feel like its not enough heat transfer as is. I run it at roughly 75% @ 16in and have had pretty good results so far. TONS of...

People are slacking! Cant believe nobody has said "give it 2 more weeks" yet on an "Is my plant ready yet?" post. .... but in all seriousness..... 2 more weeks....

Depends on how many watts you run in your space. I have a 260w HLG Diablo in my 2x3 and I need exhaust plus a fan pointed at the driver and another pointed up at the LEDs just to keep temps reasonable. Without the fans moving the hot air into the exhaust fan, my temps range from 85-100...

The genuinely good advice, was to get a better light. Those lights can't even keep a seedling alive now, let alone a flowering plant down the line. Invest the time and money into learning and setting up a good grow environment so you can actually take advantage of the seeds you have.

USA entry number 487

Yep, once is pollinated, its pollenated. I would wet her and everything else if possible to prevent further pollenation, and add pre-filters and procedures to prevent this happening in the future. Id just be sure to give the plant enough time to allow the seeds to mature (3-4weeks from...

What are you spraying on the leaves? What is your lighting? How far is light from plant? Are these dots all over, only on the upper half, lower half, only one a few leaves sporadically, etc?

You already posted this. It will get answered in the other one... No need to ask all over.

Yes you can. If you made 10gal of 550ppm feed, an additional 10gal should decrease ppm by 50% to 275ppm.

No, for final container if your doing some transplants id use full strength FFOF. essentially, as your up-potting you want to increase the FFOF and decrease the FFHF. As for orientation, I dont think it genuinely matters... regardless of how you drop the seeds, or in your case the germinated...

Thats why u do the seed in a cup of water until it sinks. What is happening, is the seed is popping open to allow the root to grow out, and when the seed opens, it allows water in and sinks. As long as the seed starts out floating, and eventually sinks, its viable. If the seed sinks immediately...

Well, I dont have much experience with autos, but ive heard both sides of the transplanting thing... in my mind, as long as you do a well executed transplant, you likely won't see any of the negatives (slowed/stunted growth), but would gain the positives of the better suited wet/dry cycle. So...

FFOF is fairly "hot" in terms of nutrient content. Can be detrimental to young seedlings, and is likely the cause of the burning/yellowing you see. Also, after transplanting, you will notice a vegetative growth slowdown, for anywhere from a couple days, to a week or so. The roots need time to...