Raising ph

Spazz101

Active Member
How can I raise the ph in my soil without watering I just waterd but I realized there at levels 3 and 4 and my plants aren’t growing.. also the top layer of my soil about 2 3 inches down is reading 4 and bottom isn’t even picking up a read saying low
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
What are you using to check pH? If your pH was 3 your plants would be dead. That's the pH of hydrochloric acid.

If you're using one of those cheap soil pH meters then toss it in the trash. They're worthless.
 

pulpoinspace

Well-Known Member
soil pH probes don't work unless you got some real equipment

what soil is it? do you give it tap water or distilled or RO or what?

"plants aren't growing" is not enough info. describe what you mean by this. or post a picture. worth 1000 words.
 

Spazz101

Active Member
What are you using to check pH? If your pH was 3 your plants would be dead. That's the pH of hydrochloric acid.

If you're using one of those cheap soil pH meters then toss it in the trash. They're worthless.
Yea It came with my set up lol I put it in a cup of soda and read the same ph as my filter water smh
 

Spazz101

Active Member
soil pH probes don't work unless you got some real equipment

what soil is it? do you give it tap water or distilled or RO or what?

"plants aren't growing" is not enough info. describe what you mean by this. or post a picture. worth 1000 words.
Ok so I got it in Fox farm ocean forest, and there’s growing it just slowed down after I transferd them from miracle grow to Fox farm 5 days ago... and I use filterd tap water... I’m post a few pics
 

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BluntMoniker

Well-Known Member
Ok so I got it in Fox farm ocean forest, and there’s growing it just slowed down after I transferd them from miracle grow to Fox farm 5 days ago... and I use filterd tap water... I’m post a few pics
FFOF is fairly "hot" in terms of nutrient content. Can be detrimental to young seedlings, and is likely the cause of the burning/yellowing you see.

Also, after transplanting, you will notice a vegetative growth slowdown, for anywhere from a couple days, to a week or so. The roots need time to re-establish themselves in their new container.

All things considering, your likely going to be fine. Just do NOT add any fertilizers for at least the next 30-45 days. Plain water is all you need. She'll likely continue to show signs of burning and such, but as long as the genetics are strong, they should be able to push through the hot environment, and grow some killer plants. Just be patient.
 

Spazz101

Active Member
FFOF is fairly "hot" in terms of nutrient content. Can be detrimental to young seedlings, and is likely the cause of the burning/yellowing you see.

Also, after transplanting, you will notice a vegetative growth slowdown, for anywhere from a couple days, to a week or so. The roots need time to re-establish themselves in their new container.

All things considering, your likely going to be fine. Just do NOT add any fertilizers for at least the next 30-45 days. Plain water is all you need. She'll likely continue to show signs of burning and such, but as long as the genetics are strong, they should be able to push through the hot environment, and grow some killer plants. Just be patient.
thanks .. Someone said the autos should be in the soil and pot they will remain in for Remainder of life is that true?... so I have a batch of 15 autos coming Bruce banner, Girl Scout extreme, and gorilla glue.. and I have 5 autos germinating in a paper towel I’m about to plant when spouting... so I have FFOF, FFHF, black gold seedling, superb soil from a pot for pot, and I have an super soil concentrate made for autos.. I also have myksos root enhancer, perlite, and some coco bricks If you were me give me a breakdown of what you would do from germination to final pot, with what I have
 

BluntMoniker

Well-Known Member
thanks .. Someone said the autos should be in the soil and pot they will remain in for Remainder of life is that true?... so I have a batch of 15 autos coming Bruce banner, Girl Scout extreme, and gorilla glue.. and I have 5 autos germinating in a paper towel I’m about to plant when spouting... so I have FFOF, FFHF, black gold seedling, superb soil from a pot for pot, and I have an super soil concentrate made for autos.. I also have myksos root enhancer, perlite, and some coco bricks If you were me give me a breakdown of what you would do from germination to final pot, with what I have
Well, I dont have much experience with autos, but ive heard both sides of the transplanting thing... in my mind, as long as you do a well executed transplant, you likely won't see any of the negatives (slowed/stunted growth), but would gain the positives of the better suited wet/dry cycle.

So really its your call... if you think you can transplant without disturbing the root system, id do that. Just let you medium dry out thoroughly, so the soil shrinks/compacts/hardens a bit and it makes transplanting much easier.

For me, id do a 3 to 1 mix of FFHF to FFOF as my seedling mix. Also, fuck the paper towel method. If your growing in soil, just drop the seed in a cup of water for about 6 hours (stir it every so often) until it sinks. Once it sinks, pull the seed out of the water, put it directly into your germinating medium in a small container (party cup size), and wait a couple days for it to sprout. The paper towel method simply replicates moist soil.. so why not just use moist soil? Lol

Once your plants are a couple weeks old, and outgrowing the cup, id up it to a half gallon sized container, followed by their final container. But again, thats if your confident you can transplant without damage. Otherwise id go straight to its final pot and just be careful not to over saturate the medium
 

Spazz101

Active Member
Well, I dont have much experience with autos, but ive heard both sides of the transplanting thing... in my mind, as long as you do a well executed transplant, you likely won't see any of the negatives (slowed/stunted growth), but would gain the positives of the better suited wet/dry cycle.

So really its your call... if you think you can transplant without disturbing the root system, id do that. Just let you medium dry out thoroughly, so the soil shrinks/compacts/hardens a bit and it makes transplanting much easier.

For me, id do a 3 to 1 mix of FFHF to FFOF as my seedling mix. Also, fuck the paper towel method. If your growing in soil, just drop the seed in a cup of water for about 6 hours (stir it every so often) until it sinks. Once it sinks, pull the seed out of the water, put it directly into your germinating medium in a small container (party cup size), and wait a couple days for it to sprout. The paper towel method simply replicates moist soil.. so why not just use moist soil? Lol

Once your plants are a couple weeks old, and outgrowing the cup, id up it to a half gallon sized container, followed by their final container. But again, thats if your confident you can transplant without damage. Otherwise id go straight to its final pot and just be careful not to over saturate the medium
Your probly going to hate me for this but I’m bad with wanting to see my seeds germination progress so I’ll dig up the soil to see if it popped or not... this is literally my first time even attempting this so I didn’t know if just straight putting the seed in moist soil would work but i see your right it same thing as moisten paper towel ... I guess digging it up, I never let it do it’s job huh? Lol
 

Spazz101

Active Member
Well, I dont have much experience with autos, but ive heard both sides of the transplanting thing... in my mind, as long as you do a well executed transplant, you likely won't see any of the negatives (slowed/stunted growth), but would gain the positives of the better suited wet/dry cycle.

So really its your call... if you think you can transplant without disturbing the root system, id do that. Just let you medium dry out thoroughly, so the soil shrinks/compacts/hardens a bit and it makes transplanting much easier.

For me, id do a 3 to 1 mix of FFHF to FFOF as my seedling mix. Also, fuck the paper towel method. If your growing in soil, just drop the seed in a cup of water for about 6 hours (stir it every so often) until it sinks. Once it sinks, pull the seed out of the water, put it directly into your germinating medium in a small container (party cup size), and wait a couple days for it to sprout. The paper towel method simply replicates moist soil.. so why not just use moist soil? Lol

Once your plants are a couple weeks old, and outgrowing the cup, id up it to a half gallon sized container, followed by their final container. But again, thats if your confident you can transplant without damage. Otherwise id go straight to its final pot and just be careful not to over saturate the medium
And would you use that same 3 to 1 FFOF and FFHF as the soil for there final container?also probably a dum ? But does it matter how to plant the seed. You know some seeds are tapperd I usally plant that side down
 
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BluntMoniker

Well-Known Member
Your probly going to hate me for this but I’m bad with wanting to see my seeds germination progress so I’ll dig up the soil to see if it popped or not... this is literally my first time even attempting this so I didn’t know if just straight putting the seed in moist soil would work but i see your right it same thing as moisten paper towel ... I guess digging it up, I never let it do it’s job huh? Lol
Thats why u do the seed in a cup of water until it sinks. What is happening, is the seed is popping open to allow the root to grow out, and when the seed opens, it allows water in and sinks. As long as the seed starts out floating, and eventually sinks, its viable. If the seed sinks immediately upon being put in the cup, or never sinks even after 24 hours and stirring it a few times, the seed is bad and can be tossed.

At this point, you know the seed is open, its viable.. NOW you put it in the soil. 2-3 days later you'll have a sprout. Doing it this way is better, I feel, because the paper towel method is essentially a transplant of the taproot itself, something which I feel is better avoided when you have the better option of a straight to soil germination.

This method cuts germination down to a total of 3.5-4 days MAX, usually half that in my experience, and its your not having to touch/move the tap root at its most fragile.
 

BluntMoniker

Well-Known Member
And would you use that same 3 to 1 FFOF and FFHF as the soil for there final container?also probably a dum ? But does it matter how to plant the seed. You know some seeds are tapperd I usally plant that side down
No, for final container if your doing some transplants id use full strength FFOF. essentially, as your up-potting you want to increase the FFOF and decrease the FFHF.

As for orientation, I dont think it genuinely matters... regardless of how you drop the seeds, or in your case the germinated seeds, they will grow the way they should. Because you germinated them, worst case scenario you put them in the wrong way, and they will take an extra day or 2 to sprout because it has to re-orient itself.. but the plus side of that, is that it would likely give the plant a stronger root system early on.

So really I dont think it matters, but if I'm not mistaken, the tap root faces down, the seed faces up. If your using my metho, just drop the seed in a 1/2in deep hole and cover it... usually 2 days later I have a sprout
 
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