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That sounds like a good plan. Arctic Silver epoxy is pretty good at heat transfer so your emitter should last for a very long time as long as the fan keeps turning. Happy growing!

That adhesive is permanent. If you want to do a future upgrade using that heat sink you would be better served using a good thermal paste and a holder for your led. You would also be able to reuse your Z2 since it wouldn't be destroyed in the removal process.

It's usually a strand of jute. It's added to the wire bundle to give it more tensile strength.

Of the two flat connectors on the plug one is wider than the other. The wide one is the neutral or white wire. The narrow one is the line or black wire.

I like to use a terminal block similar to this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Armacost-Lighting-Quick-Connect-Terminal-Block-3-Pack-RFTERMBK/203569123 They are available in different sizes and lengths. What you really need is a mini bus bar. It's easy to make one with a terminal strip. You just...

The best way to make a stranded wire work with a push-in type connector is to twist the strands tightly and tin the twisted strands with solder before making the connection. That will keep the wires all together for a nice clean connection.

For connecting the driver to the led string I have used these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Sets-2-Pin-Male-and-Female-Connector-DIY-New-/111403413862?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f0293166 They are 22 gauge and are in the US. Most of the ones available on Ebay are 26 gauge and/or are shipped...

I was having some similar issues earlier this year. Calcium and Magnesium lockouts. Adding Fulvic acid made a huge difference. Fulvic acid acts as a chelating agent making immobile nutrients like calcium and semi-mobile nutrients like magnesium available for uptake by the plant cells...

That looks more like a magnesium deficiency than a light specific issue.

16 gauge is overkill. 18 gauge will work just fine.

Heatsinkusa just released a 12" heat sink today. It has the same base and fin height and fin width as the 10". $5 per inch.

I don't know the answer to your question regarding the efficiency of the 1400ma driver under the conditions you describe. Using only 80 of the 143v volt output would only use 56% of the available voltage which is not a good choice for best efficiency. The best choices are the HLG-185-C1400A...

The HLG-185H-C1050A will work just fine for driving 4 CXA 3070s in series and you will have full dimming function for when you only need a small amount of light. You'll have a more efficient light at 1050ma than 1400ma too. The lower current is a good choice.

I don't know about the CXA holder but the potentiometer you need for dimming a single HLG Meanwell is a 100k linear taper potentiometer. The Meanwell datasheet shows how the dimming function is wired and potentiometer requirements. As for driving, I think you asked earlier if you should use 2...

That makes sense. The cheap drivers tend to be optimistic with theire ratings. Keep looking. You may find what you're looking for. I have a few drivers that claim to put out 320ma which run at ~300ma. The only actual 350ma drivers I have found are quality ones like the Meanwell APC-12-350...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-10-1W-LED-External-Driver-Power-Supply-85-260V-Short-Circuit-Protection-/271316111004?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f2bb34e9c $2.07 each They also are offering 5% off for 3 or more.

I might mention that in 172 months fluorescent bulbs will need to be changed like 12 times. That should be part of the calculation. Also, 4 32w fluorescent bulbs output about 12800 lumens when new. That works out to 100 lumens/watt. The Vero 10 4000k outputs 126 lumens/watt. 26% greater...

Here's a cheap driver that will power one Vero 10 at 300ma. http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-10-1W-LED-External-Driver-Power-Supply-85-260V-Short-Circuit-Protection-/271316111004?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f2bb34e9c $2.09 each

With the Vero 10 at 350ma you can passively cool them. I have 3 mounted on a 4" x 12" heatsink ~3/16" base and 8 3/4" tall fins.in my clone chamber with no fans. The heat sink gets warm but not hot. You could use a 3" piece is this...