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he HLG-80H-C500A has an internal dimmer which is accessed through a hole in the top of the driver. The C500B is the better version. It has a dimming cable which is really just 2 wires. All you need is a $2 100k linear taper potentiometer connected to the wires to utilize the dimming function.

That's right.

700ma is what I drive my flowering Vero 18s at. It's less efficient than 500ma but I rarely ever have them turned up all the way to 700ma. I figure the veg light is putting out a little north of 20,000 lumens when run full blast which has proven to be plenty for my veg needs. I would have...

. My veg light has 10 Vero 18 all driven by a single Meanwell HLG-120H-C500B. I use it for clones all the way up to when I transfer them into the flowering area. With the dimmable driver I can run at very low currents when they're real small and slowly increase the current to 500ma in the...

It seems that the Fcopto claim to fame is the huge size of their cobs. Personally, I don't see that as an advantage. After all, one of the great advantages of using led is multiple points of directional light.

I agree with that. More information would be helpful. Maybe it was left out for a reason? If 25% is the best the cob can achieve, I'm sticking with the more efficient Bridgelux and Cree.

Great Yoda graphic! I'd give it more likes if I could...

About 8% of my total wattage for my flowering area is deep red. I have everything switched so I can choose when to deploy the deep red. I run them at ~650ma. I am using Luxeon Es deep reds from Stevesleds.com but only because the Cree XPE Photo red wasn't available when I bought mine...

I totally agree with that. I was just trying to point out that there are not many whites that have enough deep red for my liking. I prefer to just add some deep red to supplement lower CRI whites with more punch rather than use high CRI emitters that have more deep red. High CRI is made for...

I use 3500k with good results. I like the slightly higher K-temp because they make more light per watt and they have enough red to flower nicely. I also use 660nm deep red though and that makes a big difference in but density. Most whites come up short in the deep red area. From what I seen...

That's going to be an exceptional light. Super efficient even with the Z2s. I would wait until the newer CXB version comes out instead of adding more CXA3070s.

Very nice polish job! I recently polished a 12"x12" heat sink for my mother light and can appreciate the amount of elbow grease needed to get it close to mirror finish.

Supra is right about UVC. Big Blue ozone generators use UVC bulbs. They'll cook retinas and the ozone they emit will oxidize living tissue. There are very few leds that even qualify as UVB. The few I found are used in medical equipment and cost too much for us mere mortals. Fluorescent reptile...

I bought a bag of 10 off ebay. I think it was $7. Here's a listing for 2. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-100K-OHM-Linear-Taper-Potentiometer-Pot-B100K-/260807160534?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb95172d6

It is. To dim 2 at once you can use a 50k pot. There's a chart within the datasheet that gives the values for multiple drivers. Take a look at Stardustsailor's thread. He explains the dimming function in far better detail than I can...

The A version has a plug in the top of the driver which covers a small trim pot. It's a little less convenient than an accessible knob and the dimming range is less. It can be dimmed to 60% (210ma). The B version can be dimmed to almost zero. And they cost the same. That's why I like and...

Full power should be 26.5volts X 8 = 212 volts X .35 amps = 74.2 watts The driver comes with a dimming circuit which can be operated with either 0-10v source, pwm generator or a potentiometer. I like the potentiometer because it's cheap and it works well. To dim a single driver you will need...

This is the best match for 8 V10s. HLG-80H-C350B

Thanks Pos. This light has been around for awhile. A few years ago it was outfitted with 120 1w cheap diodes and 6 cheap drivers It was passively cooled. Next upgrade was to 12 Vero13s, 4 cheap drivers and still passive cooling. The latest is the addition of, the Vero 18s, active cooling...

My veg area is 2'x4' but I really only use 2x3 or 6 square feet. 80x80cm is a bit more area at 6.8 square feet. Maybe a different shape of light with the same number of emitters?