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is it pretty light? i bought a decent amount of samsung F strips that are about a foot long, and im guessing i need a u channel for each one. i bought like 50 of them, hopefully the aluminum channels dont cost a ton

W, lumen, lux, relative intensity, these are all somewhat similar right, so all of these y-axes would be fine as plotted and not misleading? " adding 2 identical monochrome (450nm) royal blue chips...your resulting graph will have the same relative intensity, but double in w, lm,...." so the...

thanks for the science lesson! now can you explain how CRI factors into this and discuss what is more important, and if its signficantly noticeable? i hear cri90 all the time but couldnt find light strips of cri90 for my first grow so yeah, went with the 80s samsung f-series strips :\

appreciate it! didnt know i needed wagos, are wagos universal, and can i just order from amazon? found the 18awg and kapton tape on amazon, so that hopefully will work. just curious, for the wiring, what makes 18awg the go-to choice here? and 14g power cables - hopefully the arrow hlg drivers...

agree with all of you guys, arrow is great. too bad they dont sell lights too. what else do you guys buy from them?

i just have those 2 coming in. im guessing some sort of wiring and then im kinda lost on aluminum/bracketing to put the strips on. any ideas, or what else is needed? not sure if ppl just glue them on

great thanks, so it is spossible to bump up the A version from 1050mA to 1120mA with the potentiometer?

that kind of went over my head. since the y axis is maxed at unity, i presume we cannot add each graph and superimpose it, since itll reach a potential max of 2 instead of 1 as for 3000k and 5000k mixed together, does that indeed create a 4000k effectively, or does it not work that way?

looking at samsung f-series. 46v, 1.12A 2 drivers im looking at - hlg-480-c1400a : 343v, 1.4a hlg-240-c1050a/b: 250v, 1.05a from the looks of it, the 240 is under the current. however, the a version someone said can but bumped up because of a potentiometer to run at 1.12a. not sure if true...

furthermore, can we assume that 3000k and 5000k mixed together evenly (say 1 of each strip) basically averages out to 4000k? or does it not work that way? (definitely curious since 3000k and 5000k seem to be opposites in peaks, yet 3500k has 2 peaks at 450 and 600nm, like 4000k was looking at...

where did you get the mounting backet for the lights? also can you point to a guide for making these? im guessing these are cobs given by the 2 cylindrical heat sinks, suggesting its hot (i presume qb/strips dont need heat sinks)

the driver is 1.4A though, how do i drop it down to 1.12A? redoing your calculation above outputs 450.8W, is that within range (i presume yes since im guessing the hlg-480 refers to max 480 watts?) probably need 12 drivers for my room now, so the heat may add up. regardless, how would i put...

thanks. checked those, 320s are not really in stock here much. there are a decent amount of 240 1050B, whts the difference between A and B usually? also, can 1050b be boosted? lastly, for my 46V 1.12A Strips, is there any benefit to the 480 I mentioned (343max V, 1400ma) aside from its higher...

ok so if i understood this right, the color temp usually corresponds to light emitted by thermal radiation of something very hot. LEDs dont emit light this way, so a "cct" was made for LEDs just to match the 'normal' light sources from heating? also, does this mean that 5000k cct for LED is...

yes perhaps you're right. just at 130$ each and needing 12, costs just look scary :P

care to share reasoning?

also can you explain what the K means? i know its kelvin but thats a value for temperature based off celsius linearly. no lights are running at 3000k let alone 5000k! everything would burn up! for spectrum graphs, im not really sure how to read them. i know 400-700nm is the visible light...

thanks! do you know what model that is? i looked for it but didnt find it. the reason i went with the 480h-c1400a is that it goes up to 343v, so i can throw 7 of the strips in series instead of buying a ton more drivers (going to have 80+ strips, each drawing 46v each) in that case, i prob do...

do you have a link to this experiment? would love to see what he did

have you found it to be better, the 3 to 1 ratio, than just normal builds?