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Wow you gonna cook yourself bro lol. It's ok to leave it where ya are .. just saying for a bit of a bump in growth but they will be fine like that

Yeah if you. Can get temps up to 80f and humidity to 55% that should be good for this stage. Led usually lacks IR that warms the leaf temps so we need to runn warmer air temps to compensate. It should give you a bit of a boost to growth rates

Do you have control to adjust them? 80-82f day and 68 night is fine. RH 55%ish should give you a good VPD and nutrient uptake and increase growth rates. I'm basing this off LED that's what you are running right?

No cal mag and epsom only on res change

What are your temps and humidity?

I think your issue was magnesium before because it's mobile. That or old calcium damage. Calcium will be in new growth. I think the epsom just help balance the ratio a bit since using tap. Your ph is stable which means you will have much better nutrient uptake and less plant stress.

Yeah just don't want to confuse the OP is all bro

They are looking much better I think your back on the right track. Yes you can use a seperate 5gal. I would top up and adjust back to 850ppm and let's give it a couple days I think you at about the right ppm

Difference is your is made up of various minerals. His minerals is are being exchanged for all sodium. Not good for plants

You are 100% right. I have never done or even considered that. Thank you.

And with that like button I'm sure goes the report button... Later ppls no fucking way I will come back here if I get a warning or anything for having to deal with stupidity

They are both seals you fuckin retard... Just applied differently and not at all comparable to what we are talking about

It's works the same way as a shingle. Your like the gift that keeps giving only it's stupidity. Get off the subject already it's just gone to a laughable excuse for an argument I agree with @Airwalker16 a bulkhead with a flat surface is best but the flexibility of a 5gal pail make it a viable...

You just keep making my points. You see the top sides get worn and the bottom side has almost no exposure as the heat in the summer let's the shibgles lay flat and literally stick together. As I said exposure is key and a gasket has very little compared to a uniseals Infact just the edges. Now...

Wow you have to be the single most challenged person I have ever met. Look up degradation and see if you can piece together the difference between a seal and shingle. It's not like 5 yrs it just diacipates. You got to be fuckin kidding me you are comparing a shingle to a seal... WOW. Stop just...

Yup your right im worng... Have a good day I have better things to do than educate you on the properties of rubber. Like I said they work... So have at it

Go back and read my post about exposure and not being disturbed after installation. Of course I have seen the effects that's why I made the post. Gaskets can last 50+years if installed properly... Wow your some kinda special. Ok out... Sigh I bet @Airwalker16 gets what's I'm saying.

Anyhow another thread I'm just gonna stay out of... Trying to avoid the broscience crowd.

Lol dude now you just arguing to argue. You really saying as many people have leaks with bulkheads as uniseals. Anyone can google the effects of time on rubber. I spent 20 yrs in the railway doing QA I have a pretty good idea of what I'm talking about. The aquarium hobby has been around forever...

I don't get the recommended 3" inch returns which imo is overkill then recommend unileaks...makes no sense to me. Overdo one and skimp on the other? I know they are designed for curved surfaces but generally those are ones that have little to no flex... Not like a 5 gal pail