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You might wanna consider the vero 18's for that rig, the vero chips don't really gain much from underdriving so better to match your cob selection to your rated driver output, you could go with the 72v 29's and just drive 2 at near their rated output (120w each). 5 x vero 18 = £50(ish) uk...

wot he sed^^ :-) you could also use a relay to switch your ac to this driver from the dc of your vero's.

Doable in theory, tricky/expensive in practice. Mosfet regulation relies on the transistor dumping unwanted amps as heat, this means you need a real hefty transistor which is expensive and very energy inefficient.and yeah that amazon gadget will probably work but it will get damn hot if you are...

http://ce.citizen.co.jp/lighting_led/dl_data/datasheet/en/COB_5/CLU048-1812C4_P3401_1115.pdf Good example, 50w(ish) cob rated at 110lm/w @$135 plus customs, shipping and driver bringing that light in at around $3.50 per watt plus postage, for 6,135lm, I build in the uk for £1 per watt (approx)...

Simply put, yes. If you get one of the digital adjustable ballasts, its the only way of filling that space on your budget without going self build cob/qb. The light you posted initially is impossible to give any real scientific comparison because all we have to go on is marketing wank with scant...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panopticon :bigjoint:

Here's objectivity if you want it, that light is a shit object! it gives shit light, is poor value for its growing efficacy and you would be better off with hps but you seem to wan't everyone to jump on and tell you how great it is. As an experienced grower, light builder and horticultural...

Dont buy blurple, you will be disappointed, if yer uk based like me, building yourself is the best bet currently as we have zero uk light building companies worth shite. Happy to provide you with a couple of different parts lists. Can even offer to engineer the heatsinks or fully build the light...

BAH ! hps? meh, hydro? meh! duck! (fmj flicks peanut from the gallery @Doc derp) and saucers to 'keep the bugs out? meh, add more bugs! As they say in the permaculture movement; you don't have a slug excess, you have a 'duck deficit'. :bigjoint:

Sorry but I don't have time to hunt for spec sheets for every cob manufacturer, you need to google the cobs type followed by 'specification' then post the link here, as to numbers of wago's first you need to know what driver combination you are needing, it will vary depending on number of...

Good feckin point! ONLY ever alter ONE variable per run unless forced to due to health issues otherwise you will derive no meaningful data. The urge to 'fiddle about' with an experimental setup is hard to resist but you are quite right, caution is always the better part of valour!

If you can post a cob spec sheet here and let me know what your ac mains standard is (110/240 ac) I can advise on driver selection.

Simple answer; thick enough to be perfectly flat to accept the flat cob heatsink without bending the cob. The longer answer is to consider heat like a fluid, we have an emission surface from which we need to conduct about half the total consumed wattage as heat, the holes in this case can be...

Virtually every thing i do is experimental, i not only tore up the rule book, i used it for firelighters after! :bigjoint:

I tend to start clones/beans in smaller pots too and pot on frequently, its like the babies know how big their root space is and by restricting the root space just a little you control canopy size/shape easier during the initial phases (avoiding letting them get 'pot bound'), then from a week...

those seedlings look to be stretching a little too much, i'd give em more light personally. Good luck with re-vegging, never works when i try it.

I would put a maximum of 100w's of cobs on those sinks actively cooled, the cobs will need to attach to undrilled areas, the holes will cause hotspots. You could use a piece of copper or ally sheet thermal pasted to the sink to bridge the holes. The 120v fans are likely to be high ft/min but...

if you look at the board of this fairly typical audio amp you can see the big torriodal transformer (donut shaped coil) if you trace the leads from that coil, 3 will go to the mains socket/switch/voltage selector and 3 will run into the bridge rectifier (the four little black cylinders just...

Cool, well, attached to those pair of heatsinks were a whole bunch of power transistors, looked to be a kilowatt or so of em on each sink, they are very likely taken from a big pa amp or similar, most pa system amps use full wave bridge rectified power supplies and audio amps routinely run on...

So sorry to hear that but yeah yer quite right, the plant chooses us, we don't choose the plant! Now start makin the medicine to save others from yer dads fate eh? Check out the Arthritis Cream thread in 'medicating' that recipe works equally as well for cancers as it does for arthritis and...