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Lights and how you use them will be what gets you the yield. I have seen upwards of 14 OZ out of 1 plant SCROG under 1 400watt HPS bulb. If you run four 600 watters you could see 80-100 oz running SCROG off of those 8 sites.... Kinda all depends on your experience, if you are like most and shoot...

Id say, nothing if you only have a few leaves like that.. your outside, leaves get beat up... Remember in hydro you can always correct most nutrient problems by simply mixing up a new baseline mix for your reservoir and change it all out...

Yeah, I never water at night, I grow in clay pellets as the entire medium, ebb and flow (flood and drain) with 4 waterings for 5 minutes each through the 12 hours of lights. Never seen any wilt from not watering at night... In fact, when I stopped watering at night and it cured my bud mold...

Dude, based on how they look, which is pretty darn good to me, I wouldn't get too carried away making radical changes. My opinion, address the heat, cut back reservoir PPM slightly, do weekly reservoir change out and let her go... What I learned from many years of growing, bad looking leaves...

85 ish degrees but check this at the tops of your plant.... When my room is at 85 I know I have a problem at the canopy which can be close to 100.. When my canopy is at 85 my room temp is around 72.

Meh, mid flower leaf drop. I get that at week 4-5 too, especially in old fan leaves. I can see by the way the serrated edges of your leaves are turned up - high heat, and you have leaft tip burn. Are your newer leaves kinda thick and brittle, and when bent break? If so, Id drop your ppm down...

I used to every two weeks in veg, weekly in flower. I follow the same routine but in an ebb and flow unit now.

The xtrasun looks like the same shape as my hydrofarm daystar, my daystar spreads light fairly wide so if you want spread go with the xtrasun. my daystar spreads good over a 6x4 table. The irradiator looks like the shape of my hydrofarm radiant, the radiant has a more straight down focus...

When your talking about 1 or 2 drops back or forth, that isnt such a big deal.. You were talking about going 10 ph down, then 12 ph up, that is a wild swing especially if there are already nutrients in the mix. I was also talking hydro or soil, doesn't matter, if you are ph-ing a nutrient...

I gotta stick with your nutrient level... .65 EC or 330ppm is insanely low... lack of micro nutrients. There are so many different deficiencies I am seeing in your pics, it has to be your nutrient level and possibly PH balance as well.... Here is the thing, you can fix this but those leaves that...

In your previous post you said something about 330 ppm, and you're in flower.... I feed freshly rooted clones at about 300 ppm, I feed flowering plants at peak flower around 900-1100 ppm... I suppose if you are using some sort of wonder nutrient maybe ~300 ppm is enough. If you are using tap...

An answer from experience. Dump and redo especially if you have salt based nutrients in the mix. These nutrients will precipitate out when you do this with ph up and down causing problems.

This is the trouble I always had with soil and salt based fert. It is likely salt accumulation in your soil causing this, I can tell by the rust spots on the leaves that there is also likely cal-mag deficiency probably due to this fert salt build up. IMO, soil is hard to rebound without causing...

Pics?

Hey, Here is the actual mix chart for the flora series nutrients. If you follow this you should get good results. Rule of thumb, when in doubt use a little less...

Your lights are fine for now. You are not gonna really get to far with those two little CFL bulbs anyway. Your PH is probably out of range and just because the flora series "buffers" the PH doesn't mean that it is correct after a fresh mix. It really means that once you get the PH correct it...

Also, have you ever grown using hydroponic method? What is your level of experience? I can help you a lot as I have eons of exp. with hydro, so.....

If you think there are problems, you can turn things around quickly just by getting your reservoir dialed in. You should get something to test PH and PPM. Cheap liquid PH testing would be good. A PPM probe will be a bit more but very necessary. I would get your PH around 5.8, with a liquid PH...

PH problems will make your new growth come out lime green and twisted too, cannabineer was right in suggesting the lime for repot. The lime will help buffer the soil near neutral. Edit, adding more nutrients can make your PH drop even more, correct the runnoff ph first fertilize later. You...

Your PH is one full point too low for soil my friend. 6.5-7 would be a nice area to be..