DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes

zzzzzzzzztop

New Member
EVERYONE just to verify, does your reservoirs pH skyrockets (goes up, alot) when your res is slimed? Mine goes up from 5.5 to 7.1 over night or maybe in a day, bottom line is it SKYROCKETS. There doesn't seem to be any substantial info regarding this ongoing issue (slime and it's affect on pH).

I sterilized my roots and my buckets, equipment, airstones, airlines, etc in a H2O2 solution, then innoculated a fresh res, 12 hours later I added the nutes. After 48-72 hours or so of using the tea in a low nutrient reverse osmosis water solution, I think im beginning to see a couple very small new white roots. The problem is, my pH is STILL skyrocketing (going from 5.5 to 7.1 over night)........... I have no idea what is causing this, i thought it was the cyanobacteria that caused this, does this mean it is back? I have new roots growing yet I have the pH problem persisting, it is very perplexing.


Anyone have any input for this? Pulling my hair out here.... The tea appears to be creating new white roots slowly, but the pH of my res solution will NOT stay still, it is rising and rising and rising. (it seems to stop rising as much once it reaches ~7ph)
 

Malevolence

New Member
yes, ph skyrocketing up usually means you are slimed.

I've had the slime before and fought it with the tea. I just want to get away from the tea if possible. There is to much margin for error when using the tea.
I also dicked with the tea for a while, and then I just moved to aquashield with pondzyme. Once I moved from 5 gallon buckets to 100 gallon res, I just use pondzyme now. Half a teaspoon once a week... serious. I don't promise or claim it will work for you, but it is $15 for a year+ supply and sure as fuck works great for me and other DWC growers.
 

Scroga

Well-Known Member
Like I said mate, if your willing to listen. The bottle was old, munted,spoiled, cross contaminated, been sitting through 40+ heat wave last summer, it clearly had a sludge.. think it may have been Dr repair or the silica? I have 4 separate rez, 3 for 5 plants in flower, 1 for the 12 baby's in veg.. all dropped at the same time..same nute change.. when I decided to try again a few months later ...(I hadn't realized the bottle was the problem) it started again. .than I discovered, removed, cleaned, new nutes.. +aquarium bacteria just in case.. and my perpetual is back in action! :cool:;)it's coming into the height of summer here in Western Australia..cooking! My plants are showing great vigor in water that must be over 30c because the ambient room temp is about 37c.. peakin..I must say that we have really clean water in my town, pumped from limestone aquifers, treated, no fluoride, either I got the best Bennies ever or it was that bottle.
 

Meanyaf

Active Member
Well my understanding is that ph rise is due to dead roots in system decaying the same reason you add dolomite lime to soil to raise ph it causes decomposition just my 2 cents I just worry about pondzyme and stuff like that your smoking it to some degree I'm sure hence why I like the tea at least it's some what natural. Sprec do you have cooler for that system what temps you running water
 

zzzzzzzzztop

New Member
EVERYONE just to verify, does your reservoirs pH skyrockets (goes up, alot) when your res is slimed? Mine goes up from 5.5 to 7.1 over night or maybe in a day, bottom line is it SKYROCKETS. There doesn't seem to be any substantial info regarding this ongoing issue (slime and it's affect on pH).

I sterilized my roots and my buckets, equipment, airstones, airlines, etc in a H2O2 solution, then innoculated a fresh res, 12 hours later I added the nutes. After 48-72 hours or so of using the tea in a low nutrient reverse osmosis water solution, I think im beginning to see a couple very small new white roots. The problem is, my pH is STILL skyrocketing (going from 5.5 to 7.1 over night)........... I have no idea what is causing this, i thought it was the cyanobacteria that caused this, does this mean it is back? I have new roots growing yet I have the pH problem persisting, it is very perplexing.


Anyone have any input for this? Pulling my hair out here.... The tea appears to be creating new white roots slowly, but the pH of my res solution will NOT stay still, it is rising and rising and rising. (it seems to stop rising as much once it reaches ~7ph)
Okay the pH is still skyrocketing but there are lots of new white roots bursting out everywhere. Does the pH issue ever go away? I am adding enough ph down to bring from ~7 to ~5.5 EVERY day. Lot of pH down. What do you guys think?

Once the plant gets enough white roots in the res, will those healthy roots fighting with the bennies remove the cyanobacteria causing my ph to skyrocket?
 

mojavegreen

New Member
Holy crap! Kudos to the Heisenberg. Took me a full day to read this entire thread. Absolutely the most informative thread I have ever read!
Happy HOLLIBLAZE all!

mg
 

chasmtz

Active Member
So I have been using the tea at a low dosage since my last post. I am also not following instructions by inoculating the res first. I skipped that step. I literally cleaned my res, rinsed the roots and made a new res. I top fed each plant(2 total) 2 cups of tea each, 1 time per week and am having absolutely amazing results.

My tea is cheap ass worm castings, the cheapest myco blend I could find, and molasses.

I bought "Pondzyme" and it specifically says "not for edible plants" so its not for me. I have not and will not use it.

My results clearly show to me these things:

1-The formula here will treat major problems
2-Even the cheapest ingredients will prove to have dramatic results
3-Results can be seen with 24-48 hours

Thanks for the thread. No matter what my local shop thinks, I believe that tea is the answer.

One last thing. I am running a product called Z7. Its a 2 part water treatment/enzyme/PH stabilizer. I use RO water, add 250 ppm cal mag, 250 ppm nutes(500 total), Z7. That is it.

My apologies to Giftedone as I do believe he was right in regards to rapid start not helping my current situation.
 

Malevolence

New Member
I bought "Pondzyme" and it specifically says "not for edible plants" so its not for me. I have not and will not use it.
That's fucked up... never noticed that before. Wonder what's with that (it says 'edible fish' btw). There is nothing in it except wheat and non pathogenic bacteria so who knows.
 

drgonzo65

New Member
We're dealing with 2 issues here. One is crynobacteria and the other is pythium. The crynobacteria is what hits you first. It is a vicious bug that is very adaptable and Ill swear it is smart. It get's into the rez and blooms and when it blooms ...it feeds on enzymes and other organic products. Things like bloom simulators, hygrozyme and other zyme products, superthrive, and root accelerators are like a Christmas feast for this bad bacteria and as it multiply's...it use's up all the oxygen in the water. This is where Pythium comes in and takes over. Pythium is what makes the slime and as it feeds, a natural enzyme feeds the crynobacteria and the two have a party at the expense of your plants and your sanity.

Like me, many of you feel that you have been chasing around in circles trying to figure out what the problem is and how the hell to solve it. For Three years I've been battling this shit and I've seen it survive 7 cups of bleach in a 10 gallon rez. Ive seen it survive in H2O2 treated water and Ive seen it lock itself up in a plant any time an anti fungal agent like Physan 20 was used. I'm doing an experiment to see if this crynobacteria is systemic once it locks itself up inside an plant. I have clones in blocks with honorably dark purple main stems and dark red leaf stems that I'm treating with cal/mag, epsom salts and low dose nutes and tea. I'm also spraying the tea on the foliage just for good measure. My EC is 1.275 with a Ph that goes from 5.5 to 6.1 in a 24 hour period.

The trick to fighting this dynamic duo from hell is a diverse colony of good bennys that we brew in the tea but you have to replenish the rez with fresh tea every 2 days from the top of each plant to keep things in check. I'm no expert nor do I pretend that I am but I'm finally understanding this thing and how and why it works. it does appears that this bug is systemic in the fact that the roots inside the rockwool blocks are turning a slightly dark tan color but the roots that are sitting in the N.F.T trough water path are bright white and growing. My question and the reason for my experiment is ...With the aid of the Tea...can the plant rid itself of the bug ? ..or... Is it something I have to live with and keep in check with the tea ?. I have spent more time and more money and suffered more heartbreak in the past 3 years playing games with this shit then I care to mention but I am not going to give up until I have full understanding of what this thing is.

If this thing is doing what it does to our plants.....WHAT IS IT DOING TO US ?. Remember...We Drink this Water....We Cook with this Water. We Bath in this Water and We Swim in this Water. If this bug gets past a 5 stage R.O. water filter with UV Sterilization....What is it doing to our health in the long term ?
 

RePtOiD

Active Member
Hi,

I want to brew some beneficial organic tea but due to space and location its to dangerous to leave a airpump with a airstone connected and running 24/7 as when it gets to late at night my neighbors would be able to hear the pump going and problems would shortly follow.

Is it possible to just leave a powerful submersible pump like a maxijet 1000 running 24/7 in a 60l bin, would that provide enough D.O for the beneficials ect. [FONT=verdana, arial, helvetica]The water surface of the bucket moves rapidly and twist & turns on itself quite quickly with the submersible pump but doesnt create a waterfall effect if you get what i mean. [/FONT]

[FONT=verdana, arial, helvetica]Im also not sure if i am able to use maxijetx pumps as well as someone has suggested that it is a impeller type pump and this i [/FONT][FONT=verdana, arial, helvetica]believe[/FONT][FONT=verdana, arial, helvetica] may damage the bodys of the micro organisms can anyone comment on my ideas. Thank you.[/FONT]
 

cannaculturalist

Well-Known Member
Hi guys, currently trying to source what I need to be making some tea. I'm not in the USA, so am unable to source most of what is recommended. Having a look at local products I came across the MycoApply range http://www.maiaustralia.com.au/products/overview and looking at the products available, the MycoApply Maxxx seems to have the most going for it. It seems to have the major components of some of the other products mentioned in the original recipe (Trichoderma and Bacillus species + bacteria). I have already ordered a 50g pack of 420 Beneficial Bacteria (mentioned earlier in this thread with success but no specifics on what was in the mix of 28 beneficials), and a sample pack (50g) of Mykos.

I've also found http://www.nutri-tech.com.au/products/microbial-products/microbe-products.html to have a lot of interesting options - aptly one being Nutri-Life 4/20! But these don't seem as accessible (need to look into it more).

- Note, not currently experiencing problems, but I will be starting up my DWC rig in the coming weeks and want to get onto it as a precautionary thing (and to hopefully reap benefits of these organisms in the res mix).
 

hydrolyzed

Active Member
I think I wrote way to much in my first post and my questions were lost in the paragraphs..


1. I heard when dosing larger systems, less than the 1 cup/gallon problem fixer dose and 1 cup/10 gallons maintenance dose can be used...has this been proven, and what are the "larger system" amounts, and what is a "large system"? I have three 100 gallon RWDC systems to inoculate and if I can use less tea, that's great, but I still want it to be effective.

2. The amounts for the AF and molasses seem to be all over the place in this and other threads. The the two most prominent numbers are 1/8 cup AF per gallon, or 1/4 cup AF per gallon...which is it now? Molasses amounts range from 3/4 tablespoon to 2 tablespoons per gallon...what is everybody using?

3. Is the MycoGrow Soluble still 1 tsp per gallon also?? I've been reading through the pages and saw 1/16th tsp per gallon and the little $6 packet is supposed to be good for lots of gallons not just 6 gallons, but both heis's original instructions and the "summary" thread say 1 tsp per gallon...which is it???????????????

Thanks for the help guys
 

hydrolyzed

Active Member
Very curious, how much was it to use the Erythromycin? How did you use it? Did you find any evidence that it was not systemic? Could use it with a grow and have the plant matter tested!
I bought a bulk container of it for $85 that treats 3750 gallons I think. It's the same process as the ABX you would take for a human bacterial infection (it's actually used for humans who are allergic to penicillin), 4 days, one dose per day of 0.25g/gallon, and you need to complete all 4 doses or the bacteria might build a resistance to it just as they would inside us, which is why your prescription directions say "always finish this medication even if you feel better".

The directions are for fish tanks so they tell you to do 25% water changes on doses 3 and 4, but we are not trying to save the good bacteria needed in an aquarium so I opted for no changes. (another brand of EMycin just says 4 doses no water changes so I knew it was cool)

I did the same prep as before using tea, just emptied and sterilized to the best of my ability (using a spray bottle of 40ml/gal Physan 20) then rinsed system twice, wiped down dry. Did the same root prep also, rinsing roots under the tap, getting anything dead or easily pulled off out of the root ball and net pot.

Filled with fresh water, 120 gallons in my case, put the plants back in, added the 30 grams of ABX, then the nutes. Proceeded to add another 30 grams every day for the next three days. The ABX adds about 70ppm per dose, 280ppm total, and from the MSDS I could find, I'm not sure what most of that 280ppm actually is, because for every 5 grams of powder there is only 0.4 grams of actual erythromycin. The website for the product says there is some vitamins to help the fish, and I know there is sodium in it...which worried me because our plants are pretty sensitive to sodium in the solution and I knew 200+ ppm would kill them, but they didn't die so I can't say for sure what the actual makeup of the 280ppm is. If I had decided to risk using it full time I would contact the company and ask for a break down of the solutes in the product.

After about 7 days (3 days after last dose) I saw the same results as successful Tea users saw...bright white roots poking from the net pots, plants returning to rigid upright position with green color...the slime was obviously dead.

I could not find any evidence as to whether it was systemic and it's not made for edible plants of fish so there probably isn't any readily available. I only spent about an hour on google though so a more thorough search would probably tell you since it's a widely used antibiotic for humans. I know we take it internally but it's a little different if the plant assimilates it and stores it in foliage that is then heated and inhaled which is why I chose not to flower those plants. I did veg them for 20 days just to see if the slime would return and it did not.

Something I noticed also is the label states this ABX is selective and does not kill the "good" bacteria in the aquarium so there is a possibility it could even be used with the Tea as a real nuclear solution, pending it's systemic properties I suppose.

My story is just so similar to so many others and has me wondering, almost conspiracy theory tin foil hat style, why everyone's story goes "so I've been getting awesome harvests for years and suddenly 2 years ago, or 1 year ago, bam, I got it. There has to be a reason for that. Like there was an outbreak in all the water tables and reservoirs around the world or something (since I see we have international slimers in here also) I've been growing DWC and RDWC for about 6 years and have had about 1 harvest per month, every month, and all without root issues other than a little pyth here or there that was easily eradicated with Aquashield...until about 6 months ago when one plant in a 8 plant system wilted overnight, then every single plant I've tried to grow in any of my RWDC systems has gotten slimed and bad. It seems to have appeared to everyone a few years ago and all at the same time, and is now trickling though the grow world like the new norovirus us humans are dealing with. Has me freaked out and this tea is my last shot before going to the horrendously labor intensive (compared to a well designed RDWC) coco setup.

I've noticed a few people, out of the many that have success, that have me really worried in this thread, who said even with the tea they get slimed just as bad, or worse, and it appears they are doing everything right and following all my spark notes I've taken as follows

Ancient Forest is REQUIRED for fail-proof results.
Myco Grow Soluble is REQUIRED for fail-proof results.
Do NOT add too much molasses.
Brew for 48 hours at the temp your res will be kept.
Add tea to WATER ONLY for 12 hours, THEN add nutrients, and ONLY chem nutes, NO Organics, NO exceptions.
Reinoculate every 2-3 days, especially at root crown/directly into net pots.
You might see slime, but don't freak out and add any sterilizers etc. and let the tea work for at least 10 days before decided it's not working.

I originally got my hopes up quite a bit because every failure I would read about as I read page after page would eventually be sorted out to user error, usually with the ingredients.....Scares me that there was a few people who I saw follow all those rules and made the "perfect tea" and still got slimed worse than or equal to without the tea, and that would only leave the ABX route IMO which I'm not willing to take at this point.
 

Malevolence

New Member
You can call them but they won't give you a breakdown of the ingredients because it's a proprietary secret. I called and asked about pond-zyme and they said it is for ornamental fish only because it has never been tested on edible fish. Pretty sure handling powdered mycogrow soluble is more hazerdous (it says not for human consumption) and gets in the air, but I'm not worried either way.
 

hydrolyzed

Active Member
You can call them but they won't give you a breakdown of the ingredients because it's a proprietary secret. I called and asked about pond-zyme and they said it is for ornamental fish only because it has never been tested on edible fish. Pretty sure handling powdered mycogrow soluble is more hazerdous (it says not for human consumption) and gets in the air, but I'm not worried either way.
I emailed and didn't get a response.

To chasmtz...

I actually emailed Flying Skulls too about the Z7 since they are very tight lipped about what the hell it is. It's not a sterilizer, not an enzyme, but they don't say it's NOT a beneficial....so maybe it is? Not sure why it would be a 2 part though. The MSDS doesn't help either, the only clue making me think its a bennie is it says "naturally brewed" and it has a 2 year shelf life...now it's sounding like aquashield...but at a dose rate of 0.5ml/gallon can't be that either. Apparently it works for you but I wonder how effective it would be at combating a heavy slime problem....I guess I will await their reply.
 

cannaculturalist

Well-Known Member
Following up my previous post regarding MycoApply products. Having looked more closely at their offerings and info, I decided to purchase MycoApply Maxx which they recommend for hydroponics, and has the most diverse ingredients - however the site didn't list specifically what they were. I did a bit of googling and found the American distributor which had a fact sheet with specifics: http://www.callnrg.com/_fileCabinet/MycoApplySolubleMaxx_L1.pdf

Ingredient AmountEndo’s
Glomus intraradices, G. mosseae, G. aggregatum, G. etunicatum
(5,900 prop./lb each). G.monosporum, G. clarum, G. deserticola,
Gigaspora margarita, Paraglomus brasilianum,(1,900 prop./lb. each).
Ecto’s
Rhizopogon villosullus, R. luteolus, R. amylopogon, R. fulvigleba
(95 million prop./lb each), Pisolithus tinctorius (568 million prop./lb.),
Laccaria bicolor and L. laccata (38 million prop./lb. each), Scleroderma
cepa, S. citrinum (189 million prop./lb. each), Suillus granulatus
(118 million prop./lb. each)
Other Beneficial
Organisms
Trichoderma harzianum and T. konigii. -150 million cfu/lb. each.
Bacillus licheniformis, B. azotoformans, B megaterium, B. coagulans,
B. pumlis, B. thuringiensis, Paenibacillus polymyxa, P. durum, P.
florescence, Azotobacter chroococcum, Sacchromyces cervisiae,
Pseudomonas autofaciens: 372 million cfu/lb. each.
Specially Formulated
Amendments
1 - 0.5 – 7: Humic, Kelp and Vitamins
Looks like this stuff is the business. I'll brew this up with the 420 Beneficial Bacteria pack and Mykos I already purchased - not sure if I'd even need EWC for this (but since I have a worm farm, I'll add it in for good measure). I'll update this when relevant
 

hydrolyzed

Active Member
Anyone have an idea about the proper amount of MycoGrow? 1 tsp is what is says on the package but that's not for multiplying them in a tea....1 tsp is also what it says in the heis tea summary thread but I'm seeing here now 1/8th scoop from the small side of a ZHO scoop? I don't have a ZHO scoop but it sounds like a hell of a lot less than 1 tsp.
 
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