Oxygen is critical for the process. You want your bubblers operating free of gunk floating around that may clog/block them. A paint straining bag works very well. It will hold the vast majority of the vermicompost inside it, but be porous enough to not entangle any microbes.I'm going for the whole living soil thing. Doing a lot of reading and I'm getting obsessive about it. Make a tea at the moment now with some EWC and honey (some dark buckwheat from a beekeeper buddy - didn't have any molasses). I have to pick up a few things at the grow store to make a better tea.
Anyway, I keep reading about using a mesh bag to strain it. What's the purpose of that? To keep the dirt from getting dirty?
Also if you use a 'vortex' type brewer to keep your water pump from clogging. It is also a lot gentler on testing gear like pH meters and EC meters when it is filtered rather than a lot of organic stuff to dirty them up floating in the tea. It is not a MUST, in my small 'bucket brewer' I don't bother with a mesh bag at all, I just shove the air-stones under the compost. I have 3 air pumps going for a 3 gallon brew. A pump per gallon keeping things super oxygenated, and they keep the organic matter floating at a good distance away from the stones like that.I'm going for the whole living soil thing. Doing a lot of reading and I'm getting obsessive about it. Make a tea at the moment now with some EWC and honey (some dark buckwheat from a beekeeper buddy - didn't have any molasses). I have to pick up a few things at the grow store to make a better tea.
Anyway, I keep reading about using a mesh bag to strain it. What's the purpose of that? To keep the dirt from getting dirty?
100 percent there mate, I agree with you. There are many people that have access to tap water only pulling off perfect living organic grows. I've actually seen a few burned fingers when it comes to RO water. I'm not too sure about the stuff myself, it just seems TOO 'dead' to me. I count myself very fortunate to have both rain and river water to useI would say "yes" though I doubt that this will meet the
high expectations of the experts and control freaks.
(the latter reference is an endearment ;0)
Some prefer to use RO water and then control everything
from there...and they must as there is nothing left when
they start. (except Chloramine, from that article, it seems)
Good luck,
JD
This is why I'm finding organics to be so tricky. I'm used to hydro and have burned stuff in the past. I'm very afraid to over fertilize my plants. With hydro is easy to measure this and that because you start with water and can measure your inputs (to a degree).Get some Nitrogen in it first. Or else it may suck up a lot of soil N. Kelp and alfalfa are common N sources.
Ulcers were similarly diagnosed.Just a side note- If you look around you'll read about the amazing research going on with microbes in and on us humans. Arthritis has been linked to microbial activity in our gut. So the affects of microbes aren't reserved for your intestines alone. Microbes help all creatures
Once I figure out how to use it, I'll be sure to let you know. Maybe do some before/after measurements too with foliars and such. I have it, but it will probably take me a while to get it in action as I'm retarded busy trimming my outdoor all by myself. I have a 20x20 room full of stuff hanging. Probably only a 1/3 is good flower and the rest is hash making but still.Cool on the refractometer! Curious what you find. The highly mineralized soil helps shoot up the total dissolved solids. Would be cool to see some readings