LED Without LEDs -My First T5 Grow

pr0fesseur

Well-Known Member
thanks for the rep im suprised i havent had more views.. im trying to get the best $ for your effort here.. i understand people like the MH and HPS.. but the math just doesent add up for using these bulbs. The heap output and cooling for those bulbs is still greater than min wth the same results.. I just got back from a 2 week trip and my babies were covered in mites...i had no choce but to use "safer spray" wait a day than give my babies a shower...they just started flowering this week...ill post an update shortly.
 

pr0fesseur

Well-Known Member
You know, I just smoked a little bowl and i was thinking about this and I had one of those thoughts that you sometimes get when you're stoned and you figure that later you'll see -- in the clear logic of the unstoned state -- that the thought you had was retarded. But I'm going to put it out here anyway, and hopefully we're all about equally stoned and it won't sound stupid. At any rate, somewhere here in the Forum one of the experts was saying that plants use light spectra in the blue and red zones, and the spectrum that they don't use is the green, hence their green color. They absorb everything except the green, which they reflect, which is why we can see it. (My girlfriend just walked by with no cloths on. She says I shouldn't get stoned today since we have things to do, but I figure that I can do both. She also says I shouldn't get stoned since it makes me forgetful and I lose my focus and train of thought, but that's ridiculous.)
Now, what was I talking about? Oh, yeah,... I was thinking about this: if plants only reflect green, what would happen if you had one of the Professeur's pure blue bulbs, turned all other lights out, and then turned the blue one on. Would you be able to see the plants?
Anyway, with a naked girl in the room I just decided that this idea no longer has any interest for me, but I've pretty much typed the whole thing so I might as well post it.
All the best, Bob
I have the same problem with the naked girlfriend not allowing to ton concentrate.. but turn on the all blue bulbs and it does mess with the eyes a bit...its like looking at colors under blacklight to be honest.. im still trying to find more "procolor" bulbs by ati which are the red ones. they discontinued them because people dont like the color but i do cause they are 650-670nm
 

pr0fesseur

Well-Known Member
I was using giesemann T5 HO actinics+ during vegg stage before but not for entire stage. If you want to try it out note there are several different types of actinic bulbs. I believe the pure actinic 03 have very low intensity so don't get that. Get the ones that are mixed like actinic+, actinic white, super actinic..etc. But i still think its its waste of money. If actinics were that useful for plants lots of company's would relabel the reef bulbs as plant bulbs right? I'm sure there's a lot more people into growing plants indoors then people with a plant/reef tank. You will do fine with t5ho bulbs like spectralux by sunlight supply.

In the end its all about what you use for flowering to get the big buds right??:confused:
You CANNOT use actinics alone and i would not suggest it.. if you actually read all of my posts im using the bulbs to supplement each other. im looking to fulfill the plants spectrum requirements without using wasted lumens.. this is about filling the gap between HID and LED for ROI (return on investment) for the laymen. Bud size is NOT dependent on one factor alone and my methods would NEVER use any one set of bulb type.. This is also a work in progress, you must understand im using bulbs that meet the standards of one type of animal for plants. LED's have proven viability HID's IMHO are great but convert energy to HEAT rather than lumens.. so im trying to get the Most PAR and PUR out of my setup. I must dissagree about more people using grow lights than aquarium lights.. it is only because of the aquarium people that spetralux bulbs even exist.. these companies have been producing aquarium bulbs for over 25 years.. FAR longer than growing with Fluoro have been considered. please only back your opinions with real facts, as i have. Spreading disinformation is worse than lying.. If you only used Actinics you DID NOT supply the plants with the light they require through out their life.. plants need both spectrums of light..both 410-460nm and 600-700nm. your observations are only based on using ONE spectrum of light. please be unbias and state only accurate information.
 

RobertInAz

Active Member
Nice to have you back, Professeur, and sorry about your mite problem. I'm about to buy some actinics ...you have a brand/supplier you can recommend?
Bob
 

topspin

Well-Known Member
I'm down with this thread, I've been using T5 only for a year but just the conventional 6700/3000 switch. Will give these a shot
 

dum

Well-Known Member
I am beginning a grow in which I will be using a 65w 420nm (420 for good luck) actinic aquarium light and a 65w 6500k daylight bulb (both made by "current" I believe). I was thinking of adding another small, low watt cfl at around 2700k to fill the spectrum a bit. I like the professor's "full spectrum" idea. If I feel up to it I will start a grow journal. You guys should do a google image search for "light spectrum for plants", very convincing.
 

pr0fesseur

Well-Known Member
Sorry to everyone!!! I had some of my belongings removed by the authorities! however remember to have something available to prove your innocence i suggest TRUECRYPT ROFL!! so cops took my laptop and found my tent but nothing was in it THANK GOD! i had killed them due to a Mite issue i was having. Everything is up and running and i am posting new pics today! The shorter plant is sharks breath and the taller plant is Kandy Kush... I bought fem seeds and am testing the strains for my setup as you can see Kandy Kush is my new winner! i also have some fem super lemon haze !! I tested 3 varieties one didnt germ after 2 seeds so its out! debating on making a mother.. BTW Kandy Kush is a great topper and sharks breath... i have a BUNCH of tops as you can see.. If anyone asks whats my yeild ... im really not after a yeild.. sounds crazy im trying to test out topping, LST and grooming.. my last plants as you can see were all LST trained! i use a pinch method and the stems bend on their own.. and every day ill push the branches down gently to promote central growth on all nodes!
IMG_20110511_101238.jpgIMG_20110427_133644.jpgIMG_20110509_115534.jpgIMG_20110501_210644.jpgIMG_20110506_140504.jpgIMG_20110521_183156.jpgIMG_20110514_181225.jpgIMG_20110502_210832.jpgIMG_20110509_115541.jpgIMG_20110511_101251.jpgIMG_20110518_150730.jpg
:blsmoke::blsmoke:
 

pr0fesseur

Well-Known Member
I am beginning a grow in which I will be using a 65w 420nm (420 for good luck) actinic aquarium light and a 65w 6500k daylight bulb (both made by "current" I believe). I was thinking of adding another small, low watt cfl at around 2700k to fill the spectrum a bit. I like the professor's "full spectrum" idea. If I feel up to it I will start a grow journal. You guys should do a google image search for "light spectrum for plants", very convincing.
I say toss the daylight bulb completely and buy the fiji purple they are the perfect "blend" color! and a blue plus thats all you need! i use other bulbs to get a more even "MIX"
 

pr0fesseur

Well-Known Member
From looking at that chart.. Instead of paying $20ea for the actinic bulbs which i think are only around 400-600nm wavelength .. wouldn't it be cheaper to get just to get the $7ea full spectrum t5 bulbs since it has the blue & red spectrum that plants mostly need?
no not at all.. matter of fact you missing the point! actinic bulbs are ~400nm NOT 400-600nm thats the WHOLE spectrum. by using "full spectrum" bulbs you waste electricity by creating light plants DONT use... so in effect my actinic bulbs are more efficient by creating light in a very narrow spectrum.
 

pr0fesseur

Well-Known Member
PAR vs PUR measurement of light, efficency
This is a new thread to discuss the differences in terms of growth, asethetics and brands of various bulbs of using PAR and PUR measurements.

Some background is useful as these terms are not as familiar to many hobbyists:

Photosynthetically available radiation (PAR) is defined as the amount of radiant energy available within the approximate spectral range of 350 to 750 nm (Tyler 1966). Instruments commonly used in studies of photosynthesis are PAR meters; that is, they report 400J700 I,h) or total PAR. Photosynthetically usable radiation (PUR) is defined as
the fraction of photosynthetically available radiant
energy of such wavelengths that it can be absorbed by
the algal and plant pigments. Light is selectively absorbed
by most algae in the blue and red regions of the
spectrum, causing the transmitted light to be concentrated
in regions of the spectrum where algal pigment
systems are ineffective at trapping light for photosynthesis
(Sullivan et al. 1984). PUR is necessarily less than
PAR, and PUR will depend on both the pigment complement
of the microalgae and the spectral composition
of the available submersed radiant energy.

It has been suggested that we can calculate PUR through a light calculator and thus have a more precise method of measuring light than PAR. However, I have argued that without knowing the pigment complement of the plants in question, none of which are known............nor have been quantified near as I can tell, maybe I have not searched enough yet, you cannot say much about it. Research also supports this view.

PAR will always be equal to or higher than PUR.
I do not dispute that. PAR meters are also easy to measure with, the methods for measuring specific PUR wavelengths and intensities is not.
Modeling calulators can and do have issues, and need results to verify.

I'm asking and debating whether it can be measured and verified in the aquarium to the same argument made by PUR calculator proponents. There is not enough evidence to say that there is at this point.

You can speculate without support, but you cannot say much else.
What I am asking and looking for is some meat on the bone here, some real support that it makes a difference that aquarists can see, measure, quanatify, heck, anything other than "belief" and yes, I "feel good".

Here's an algal back ground paper that discusses what is involved and the methods to measure PUR in situ, a much higher bar than using a PAR meter. Given that most bulbs used already have a good amount of Red and blue anyway, this starts to get pretty insignificant and difficult to test and support any differences using PUR vs PAR for aquarium plants.

I remain unconvinced.

http://www.new.aslo.org/lo/toc/vol_31/issue_3/0557.pdf

Show me some quantum yeld differences, Relative growth rates differences between PAR and PUR with typical bulbs.

Something.

Are comparison of modesl is detailed here:
http://222.aslo.org/lo/toc/vol_44/issue_7/1599.pdf

While there was a difference between PAR and PUR models in biomass, look at the variation, it's quite a bit. Adding 300 species of plants and that would go even higher. There was good correlation with the PAR model and production, see the last Figure 9, also, look at table 1.
 

wildcajun

Active Member
100_1418.jpg100_1419.jpg100_1421.jpgDamn I have a T5 grow going ,no problems at this time Flowers are getting big,25 days into flower period 100_1420.jpgHappy Farming Cajun
 
Top