am i nitrogen deficient???

[stout890]

well guys i didn't catch these replys until i already re potted, either way i dont have any bone meal or kelp and have a suspended lic so i am limited on what i have and when i can get more. i order most nutes of amazon but am still waiting for my tiger bloom and cha-ching. i also have some mystery guano that i don't know the species of. it was given to m by a friend in a bag with only feeding instructions written on it.


here is what her roots looked like.


here she is in her new home.

 

[bonjo78]

its a phosphorus deficiency (lets see how many times ill have to repeat my self till ive been heard )

ill set it elselike , when half of the leaves , turn half yellow consider a phosphorus def ...

 

[Medi 1]

for soil any where between 6-7 is fine, and some times depending on how hardy the strain is it can take lower or higher ph

way to big of a ph window. no pot is grown at 7 pH . no matter the medium.

 

[Medi 1]

and that isnt phos. phos is brown crinkly leaves in veg not this.,this is nitro and usualy cause the ph dropped out if its been fed right and at the right ph range. then its not being allowed to dry enough and drops the ph.
roots looked fine and wasnt in need of a transplant yet. wont hurt but didnt need it quite yet.

 

[bonjo78]

just let the crazy man talk on his own but nitrogen def 1st pales the overall color of the plant and next the lowest / oldest leaves , the crazy man also says that u did transplant excactly the best time , consider that some strains want deeper pots than others and some need wider , urs need wide pots , u did the right choice of home

 

[jawbrodt]

^Exactly, transplanting was the best thing you could've done. No, it wasn't rootbound yet, but IMO, it's stupid to wait that long. Why wait for them to stall, right? Unless you plan on flowering soon, you're going to want to go bigger with the pot, eventually. It'll be alot easier to maintain, if you do. I've flowered in smaller pots, and did well, so don't think I'm trying to say that you are doomed, if you don't go bigger.lol I'm just saying that you(and the plant) will be thankful you went bigger, when it comes time. There'll be less chance of deficiencies, increased watering times, and almost certainly, increased yield. Just food for thought.

 

[keep it real.]

any where between 6-7 is fine for soil look up a ph chart

6.3-6.9 is the best to be in.

 

[stout890]

well banjo and medi1 i do have new growth that is a lighter green than the rest of the plants. alo i asked my buddy about that guano and he claims its happy frog 0-5-0 so maybe i could try that but there is a chance still that it is not 0-5-0 but whats the worse that could happen? since its been in the new pot about 10 hours and its pretty much the same but with new growth on the tops of all branches so i bet those roots are getting way more room. that plant only had 6 inches of depth in that old pot witch is why i think it was so short for being on week 4. i also have that Alaskan fish fert ill try for nitrogen. do you guys have any good ways of mixing guano or fish ferts in small amounts? since i use bottle water i don't want to mix a gallon to use a cup than poor the rest down the drain.

p.s do you guys think i should remove those really yellow fan leaves?

 

[Snow Crash]

The plant is definitely hungry. Probably for both elements, but the new growth does look pretty lush... So iron, sulfur, and probably nitrogen are not in too short supply. A plant that size, with only a dozen fan leaves or so, really doesn't need that much of any element. Especially from a good soil... The state of your organics should be in question here as well. A good dosing of a microbe containing rooting enhancer might do some good.

A good way to determine what issue this is, Nitrogen VS Phosphorus, is to check the stems. If your stems are reddish/purple then it's phosphate. I'm sticking with pH imbalance though, that soil should be very capable, and you shouldn't be seeing deficiencies (just slow growth). There has to be some kind of imbalance in the media, be it with the pH or the microbes or both, that is impeding the uptake of a specific nutrient to the point that the plant is forced to cannibalize itself to create new growth.

 

[stout890]

A good way to determine what issue this is, Nitrogen VS Phosphorus, is to check the stems. If your stems are reddish/purple then it's phosphate. =

the stems are purple but they have been that way since the beginning. the strain is iced grapefruit from attitude.

 

[Mother's Finest]

The fish emulsion you can mix with a partial dose. It should say about 2 tsp per gallon for indoor plants. You can also mix half a gallon and just add one tsp. 1qt: 1/2tsp, 1pt: 1/4 tsp. Guano usually mixes 2TBS per gal and you can do the same conversion for smaller amounts. Guano needs to be either mixed into the soil or made into a tea. There are some recent threads on tea making in the Organics section.

Yes, those very yellow leaves are past the point of no return and you can just get em out of the way. Don't prune more than a couple leaves every couple days. Give the plant time to recover in between prunings.

Guano usually has Phosphorus so you should expect that your mystery fert has P and some N. You're going to need some K at some point soon. In your situation I'd reccomend getting Maxicrop Soluble Seaweed Powder. Even the 10oz (~18$) container lasts a long time and can be easily ordered online.

 

[Mother's Finest]

I should've pointed out that the leaves may be yellowing because of a deficiency, which would mean that the plant is absorbing the nutrients it needs from older leaves. If there's a deficiency and you start pruning the yellow leaves off before correcting it, the plant will just begin absorbing nutes from other leaves. Once the problem is fixed, you can remove dying leaves without worry.

 

[Mazar i Shariff]

What you are seeing is NITROGEN BURN homes ... Your leaves should not be THAT lush green

While some might think it looks healthy, it really is to the point of burn & nutrient lockout if you don't flush it out and lower it's N levels

Easy on the feeding, tiger! haha

And make sure your PH is around the neutral level of 7.0 (if you need to neutralize it, use garden lime aka hydrated lime, dolamite, as this will help as a soil buffer and also release cal-mag which is great)

 

[Medi 1]

wow...phos isnt red stems always. and phos in veg is diff than in bloom. ..

what element is available at pH 6.9?

yes remove those lower yellow nitro dfeff leaves

check the pH of the run off yet????, new growth burning is another sign of it to. when everyone else give a million diff answers ill wait for you to look at the run off.....lol untill you do everyone is guessing.

 

[Snow Crash]

wow...phos isnt red stems always. and phos in veg is diff than in bloom. ..

what element is available at pH 6.9?

yes remove those lower yellow nitro dfeff leaves

check the pH of the run off yet????, new growth burning is another sign of it to. when everyone else give a million diff answers ill wait for you to look at the run off.....lol untill you do everyone is guessing.

Many elements are available at 6.9. Doesn't make it ideal, but it's not like they are locked out.

It is true that red stems are not the definitive answer. Really, all red stems indicate is stress, but it could just be genetic all the same. Majority of the time though phosphate and magnesium are going to be the cause of red stems, and since we've ruled out Mg then... Yeah, time will tell.

 

[Medi 1]

red stems can be nitro. by that chart i should be feeding in soil at 8 or 9 ...not.

heres a chart i follow. that one seems funny to me.

Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Nitrogen: gets locked out of Hydro, Soil less mediums at the levels of 4.5-5.0.
Nitrogen has the best absorption rate at a ph of 5.5 to 8.0
(Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range to have Nitrogen is: 5.0-7.0. Anything out of that range will contribute to a nitrogen def.

Phosphorus: gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0-8.5.
Phosphorus is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0- 5.8. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus Deficiency.

Potassium: gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0-4.5, 6.0-6.5.
Potassium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.7-5.3, 6.7-8.5. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a potassium deficiency.

Magnesium: gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.7
Magnesium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.8-9.1
(Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.

Calcium: gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0- 5.3
Calcium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.4-5.8 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Calcium Deficiency.

Zinc: gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.7-8.5
Zinc is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0-5.5 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Zinc Deficiency.

Iron: gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-3.5
Iron is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0- 6.0 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to an iron deficiency.

Sulfur: gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.5
Sulfur is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0- 9.5 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to an Sulfur deficiency.

Manganese: gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-4.5
Manganese is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.0-5.6 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a manganese deficiency.

Boron: gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.0
Boron is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.0-6.0(Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a boron deficiency.

Copper: gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.5-9.0
Copper is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-6.0 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a copper deficiency.

Molybdenum: gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.5
Molybdenum is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0-8.0 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Molybdenum deficiency.

Nickel: is required by plants for proper seed germination
Though Ni deficiency symptoms are not well documented. Symptoms include chlorosis and interveinal chlorosis in young leaves that that goes down to plant tissue necrosis. Other things are poor seed germination and decreases in crop yield.​

 

[Snow Crash]

red stems can be nitro. by that chart i should be feeding in soil at 8 or 9 ...not.

heres a chart i follow. that one seems funny to me.

Dude... You really are a piece of work.

We're going to have to agree to disagree. Bottom line though, I've seen the advice you give, and it's terrible. Why don't you try growing some plants first.

Secondly, if you have the intelligence to interpret a simple spreadsheet (I didn't make it) then you'd see the absorption levels for Magnesium and Calcium. I mean, you can argue with Chemistry till you're blue in the face, you'll never win against good science.

I choose to save my time and ignore you from now on. Good bye.

 

[mcpurple]

way to big of a ph window. no pot is grown at 7 pH . no matter the medium.

sorry but i have grown in a ph of 7 and 6 they are completely fine.
your trippin. and how is it a big window as long as each water is the same ph it is fine.
and most the time run off ph does not tell you any thing worth knowing, if you knwo what your putting in then it wont matter

 

[stout890]

honestly im not even getting run off i'm afraid to water that much. should i be watering until i see run off?

 

[bonjo78]

stem color can be into acount only on outdoors , indoors most of the times is the light source that makes it change color .
when u know how much to water u dont need to have run off everytime , its better tho to have runoff than to leave half of the soil unwatered , u also need to have run offs now and then if u feed agresivelly cause this way salts built ups are greater , the most important issue tho is not to let that runoff stay on the tays and get in contact with the pot/soil

i feel i have forgoten something i wanted to mention , when i get a bit sober i might recall it