am i nitrogen deficient???

stout890

Member
ok guys so i came home the other day to see my plant drooping bad. soil was dry so i watered my normal amount of bottled water that has the correct Ph (i use dasani, its 6.0). by the next morning the upper portion perked up nice but the bottom fan leaves were still drooped but the stems firmed up and weren't floppy anymore, and have started yellowing at the tips. by that afternoon the yellowing had progressed upwards. iv dona a little research and i think i am nitrogen deficient. so far i have used no nutes and been growing in fox farm ocean Forrest. i was told that that soil should have enough nutes to carry it threw a month or so of vegging than i was planning on flowering and using tigerbloom and cha-ching. i didn't want to veg the plant to big because of space restrictions. i'm growing under 6 23 watt cfl lights about 6 inches away from the plant. if i am N deficient i have fish emulsion that is 5-1-1 will that help my problem? and also how should i mix up a batch for watering? i use a diner style katchup bottle to water with and fill it with bottled water. im thinking i dip a spoon in it and than let the excess run off till its got just a thin coat and than stir the water with the spoon???? i dunno any suggestions? i dont want to mix up a gallon just to pour it down the drain. iv also got some mystrie bat guano lol dont know what kind tho.iphone 026.jpgiphone 025.jpgiphone 024.jpg:wall:
 

LorDeMO

Active Member
It's not N def, if it was the leaves would start turning a paler colour. They do look a little heat stressed and overwatered tho ~
 

keep it real.

Well-Known Member
6.0 ph is tooo low you want to have 6.3-6.8 make sure the run off of the soil is in between that if the soil ph is 6.0 its gonna lock out nitrogen even though the soil have it.
 

bonjo78

Active Member
its the excact oposite , nitrogen overfeed , make a litle flush cause they started getting burned on the tips , tomorow the yellowing will be more visible , at least DONT FEED NO MORE
 

darkdestruction420

Well-Known Member
them leaves are dark green, they would pale if it was n def., you should lower them lights 6 inches is really far away, you want 2-3 inches away max since cfl lighting quickly loses its intensity and usefulness as the light gets further away from the bulb down to your plants.
 

stout890

Member
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It's not N def, if it was the leaves would start turning a paler colour. They do look a little heat stressed and overwatered tho ~
the leaves are yellowing more i dunno guys are you sure...

oh and mothers i believe this little girl to be root-bound, i put 3 small rocks in the bottom of the pot for drainage also, but im sure the pot is just small. i imagine the tap root has hit bottom...wonder if i re pot if it will out grow my box?iphone 004.jpg
 

Masonan

Active Member
Hey man, this same thing happened to me about a month ago. But i didnt catch on as early as you have. What really saved my plants was some "Sunleaves Peruvian bat Guano" it was only about 7 bucks at my local hydro store. Its all organic, so its really hard to burn your plants with it. I think the NPK is something like 10-10-2. I use it for nutrients throughout both phases of growth. My plants seem to be loving it mixed with some fox farms tiger bloom. I would suggest trying it out. Your plants should look better within 5-7 days after the first feeding too. Hope that helped, good luck man.
And oh yeah, that plant looks really nice man, good luck i hope she starts feeling better

peace
 

Mother's Finest

Well-Known Member
As long as a plant isn't flowering yet, you can trim the root ball. In order to prevent mother plants that are kept in veg a long time from becoming rootbound, the grower needs to regularly cut away the sides of the root ball and repot with fresh soil. The same thing can be done with any plants in veg. Usually you want the root system to grow during vegging so the flowering plants can absorb more nurtients faster, but if root space is an issue then trimming them might help.

You pull the plant from the pot. Cut the bottom (25%?) of the root ball off with a sharp knife. Cut a similar amount off from all around the sides and repot with fresh soil. Keep the soil from drying out until the plant recovers.
 

Snow Crash

Well-Known Member
Looks like a pH imbalanced nutrient burn to me. Those leaf tips are going to get brown and dead here shortly. You're not adding nutrients... so I'm a bit confused on how you're getting burning now with that soil...

If it is a nutrient shortage then it's probably Potassium as the damage is mostly in and on the edges of the plant. If you start seeing the meat of the leaves (between the veins) going yellow then it is definitely your pH. Bringing it back up to 6.5 would be the right thing to do. The lack of aeration media in your soil also indicates over watering might be a contributer. This could be the very beginnings of root rot.

Here's an advanced picture of what I'm talking about. This plant is in flowering, but the problem is essentially the same, just further along. Notice the way the tips of the leaves are curling up, and how the yellowing is spreading like a disease. Heat and pH play a big factor in root health, and they did for this plant as well.
 

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Medi 1

Well-Known Member
wow... funny. if its soikl ph is at 6.3 and soiless is 6.1. not more than 6.5 for soil. and cant be letting it go from 6 to 7 as others said.
its not iover fed, its under. burn is under fed not over. suberin stops them from inatking to much of an element.

i see you use cfl. so less food needed as it cant process it as fast so adding foods i bet the ph in the medium has dropped a bit and caused them to not get the food and is wqht the tip burn. check the run off for ph
 

jawbrodt

Well-Known Member
Okay, I'm with ya, on that it's starting to get hungry, showing clear signs. Yes, FF is capable of sustaining a plant for quite awhile, BUT, that depends TOTALLY on the size of the pot, relative to the size of the plant. Your plant looks really healthy, atm, but like you, I fear that it has the soil drained of nutes, and is in need of feeding, or transplanting. I base that on the size of the foliage, relative to the size of the pot. As you can see, the foliage occupies an area larger than the pot itself, which to me, indicates that the root mass is spread out, in a similar fashion. IMO, that makes it logical to assume that your healthy plant has roots filling the entire pot, has been happily feeding, and has depleted the supply of nutes in the soil. That's a good thing.

So, my advice to you, is to transplant to a bigger pot, asap, and in the meantime,...start feeding with a weak fert solution.(1/4 strength veg fert, high in N) If you want to test my thoery, mix up a 1/2 strength mixture of veg fert, and give it a foliar feeding. Soak everything, top and bottom(undersides, especially), and I can almost guarantee that it'll perk right up, within 2 hours. That'll show you that it was indeed hungry. Also, it's a good idea to include foliar feeding in your regular routine. It'll prevent early deficiencies, like this, and as another plus,...won't risk fertburn. Plants won't absorb any more than what they are lacking, via foliar feeding. They will only absorb what's required to fill any voids, seen or unseen. I use it until early/mid-flowering, and swear by it. Try it out, I think you'll come to like it, yourself. It's a great 'safety net', so to speak. :wink:
 

jawbrodt

Well-Known Member
wow... funny. if its soikl ph is at 6.3 and soiless is 6.1. not more than 6.5 for soil. and cant be letting it go from 6 to 7 as others said.

Going higher than 6.5, is perfectly okay. I prefer 6.7-6.8, myself, and never have any issues with PH.

Okay, just wanted to clarify, that's all. :)
 

Medi 1

Well-Known Member
foliar wont fix the soil issue. no roots or cation exchange there that is messed up. they will take all food in as a foliar, there is no suberin on leaves to stop this as therer is on roots.,your plant is fine. i wouldnt even worry about the sligtht ip burn. your over thinking this and will make it worse. check ph run off and if its fine leave it.
 

mcpurple

Well-Known Member
for soil any where between 6-7 is fine, and some times depending on how hardy the strain is it can take lower or higher ph
 

stout890

Member
well guys thaeres alot of good info here but unfortunetly its vary mixed and kinda leaves me pase 1 still. im gonna just re pot this girl in a bigger pot with some fresh soil.... so well see if that brings her up. the new soil i think will give her a little more nitrogen if my soil was in fact getting bare... ill get a chance to see if she has gotten root bound, i planted her too shallow in the pot and also have a few rocks at the bottom that take up space as well so we will see. if all else doesn't bring her up ill try my Alaskan fish fert. i also got a question...after you top a plant does that stop its vertical growth at all other than the week to recover from the stress?

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so here is what she looks like as we speak, i lst'd the lower branches before i left the house today. still haven't done anything yet about the yellowing tips. the tips are curling down also. you can see the pot i'm going to next to the left of her.
 

Mother's Finest

Well-Known Member
Your plant is very green so don't overdo it with the nitro. N deficiencies always present with light green new growth. Fish emulsion is great stuff with every micronute your plants need but you should find sources of P&K to add to it. Since you're repotting, some of this can just be added to the soil for long-term release. A little bone and kelp meals mixed into the soil would do the trick and then N would be supplied by the Fish Emulsion.

Topping the plant stops the vertical growth of the stem you cut (obviously) and causes the little shoots in the corner of each leaf node to start growing upward.
 
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