For all new growers with questions... Tons of information and answers..

jdizzle22

Well-Known Member
So I came home from work tonight and the light was still on! Something went wrong with the power strip light timer thingy! They got 3 more hours of light tonight than they should have. How should I help this out? Should I give them 3 extra hours of dark and make that their new bedtime or just stick to the same schedule and hope it all works out? :-(

I took the ballast plug out and wound the timer around again and it shut everything off like it was supposed to so I have no idea why it didn't work tonight. Now I am worried I won't be able to trust it and have to get a new one or some crap, whats the most reliable thing to use? Is there anything besides a simple 'light timer'? How bad is this gonna be for the plants? Is this going to throw them back into veg? UGH :( and I thought things were going pretty well.

Yeah the pH of all the plants after being watered as been 5.5 for pretty much forever, so I don't think they are in total lock out. Like I said maybe the meter is just screwy? You recommend a couple things to raise the pH, is it not just possible to give them extra pH up with their water a few times?

PS: I've read that its a myth that plants need 12 hours of dark and that it actually varies between strains. That 12 is just the safe rule. How much less dark can they live with before they freak and revert back to veg or something?
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
your girls will be fine.. the extra light wont hurt it if its a random event... but trying to kep the light cycle on time all the time is important

the best thing to do is to get a heavy duty timer... spend 30 on a really nice one from a hydro store... or just manually on/off the lights yourself... this can be a pain in the ass.. but the investment for a good timer is well worth it...

what you heard about flowering times is right... if you think about the seasons around the world, and lighting during those seasons.. there are places that dont get 12 hours of dark.. and some that get more... strains from areas where flowering isnt 12/12 naturally have strains that have adapted to the different light they are given.. point being some strains can flower fine with as much as 14 hours of light..the problem is its hard to know if they strain you are growing can handle more than 12 hours or not.. to know that you need to know where the roots of their genes come from.. 12/12 is just the safe time.. everything will flower under 12/12...

its not really possible to raise ph just using ph'd water.. the waters ph doesnt affect the soils ph.. they work on similar but different principals... i dont think you are in total lockout.. otherwise the plants would look terrible.. i just think you are on the fence and things are just barely available.. enough the plant is living.. but not eating the way it should.. using earth juice ph up (make sure its the kinda for soil) will take care of things the easiest..
 

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
Ahh Goose, hate to admit it, but as fat as the girls were swellin, I yanked off an extremely swollen lookin calyx, and there was a beaner. And it's not just one, pretty sure they are all tainted.

Man what a douche.

Anyway, what am I lookin @ from here.

Is that shiz even gonna be worth the labor involved to chop & prune?

Like I said, things are still gettin extremely frosty, by the day even. How come they are still doing that instead of switching to straight seed production?

Everywhere I read before I even started explained the essence of true sinsemilla.
The whole, once impregnated, bud development halts, as well as trichome production. But my shit keeps gettin fuzzier & unfort. I am certain I yanked off beans. Def. know that they look like. Nice & healthy lookin beans but fuuuuuuckkkkkkk.

What's ur prognosis.

600 wattter should be here any day & I am going to take a fukn microspoe to those babies daily to look for sacs. those muthas.

Thanks bud
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
take a pic of the bean...

was it dark like normal healthy seed??

calyxes are filled with stuff.... plant matter.. and sometimes.. when they are fucking swelled huge... they can sometimes look similar to an unripen seed... inside that is... so im a little curious...

nothing is telling me they are seeds... the plants still growing/swelling... nice fresh pistils... i just cant make it work in my head where they are prego... but i could be wrong..
 

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
take a pic of the bean...

was it dark like normal healthy seed??

calyxes are filled with stuff.... plant matter.. and sometimes.. when they are fucking swelled huge... they can sometimes look similar to an unripen seed... inside that is... so im a little curious...

nothing is telling me they are seeds... the plants still growing/swelling... nice fresh pistils... i just cant make it work in my head where they are prego... but i could be wrong..

Yeah dude, I'll take a pic of one tonight.

However, I live in a place where sinsemilla is very difficult to come by, so I KNOW what a bean looks like. There def. is one that is prego. They looked just like what I dropped into the 'ol rooters a few weeks back.

Now I did start yankin off some similar lookin calyxes from other plants last night that felt stiff enough to be a bean, once I got them off & examined, it did look like some weird mooshy shiz. But sorta looked like it might be a bean that just wasn't mature enough yet.

Oh well, as frosty as things are, I have to imagine that there will be some kinda descent flava. And trichs are pretty abudunt (my hands were absoultely covered with extremely resinous goo that I had to wash with soap to get off, but smelled so sweet, OK actually I licked a good amount of the shit off cause it tasted so damn good. Yeah, like I said it's rather hard to come by in this area.

So yeah, I'll throw up some pics.

Lemme know if ya have any revalations in the tween.

Thanks homey
 

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
Sampson, hey man, sorry for actin like Scarlett fukn O'hara on that msg. Just been hella long week, and seein my girls like that was just the sweet cherry on top.

But things could be WAY worse. Maybe since they only received a minimum amount of pollen, that is why they are still frostin up?

Who knows, it will be an interesting case study. And regardless, I am quite certain I will have way betta stash 4 the head as I would before (given my locale), not to mention confections, and sheesch.

Totally overacting, thanks for bearin with me my man. I really do appreciate all you have schooled me on.

I'll get up some pics this evening bro.
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
Sampson, hey man, sorry for actin like Scarlett fukn O'hara on that msg. Just been hella long week, and seein my girls like that was just the sweet cherry on top.

But things could be WAY worse. Maybe since they only received a minimum amount of pollen, that is why they are still frostin up?

Who knows, it will be an interesting case study. And regardless, I am quite certain I will have way betta stash 4 the head as I would before (given my locale), not to mention confections, and sheesch.

Totally overacting, thanks for bearin with me my man. I really do appreciate all you have schooled me on.

I'll get up some pics this evening bro.
there is a chance that you could just have a hermie or two.. with a low hermie pheno.. just enough to pop a few seeds.. a case like that would allow the plant to continue to mature without stopping flower production...

things sound like they arent that bad... it should be fine....

i understand the freak out... trust me.. been there...

any buddie know were to buy a pc go case for chaep or know the list of stuff i need to build one my self.thanks charlie
http://www.pcgrowcase.com/

https://www.rollitup.org/cfl-growing/
 

jdizzle22

Well-Known Member
Any experience using baking soda with the soil? I couldn't get to any store with lime or bone meal or anything like that, and I've read that you can use baking soda to stabilize soil pH
 
ok i have a question for ya, i have this white cottony spots on my stems and dont know what they are! I have been searching everywhere to find out what it is and so far no luck. i thought at first that maybe it was mealy bugs or something but i have been lookin over the plants more and more and still cant come to a decision. I need help bad, one branch of my clone has already went black but whats weird is that only a lil bit of it was black(closest to the stem) then the rest of the branch was still green! In fear of it spread to the stem i cut that branch off :(
I would really like any opinions and or suggestions on it! i have attached a couple pics sorry the pics are not the clearest! Thank you
 

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simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
Any experience using baking soda with the soil? I couldn't get to any store with lime or bone meal or anything like that, and I've read that you can use baking soda to stabilize soil pH
i know baking soda will raise ph in water.. but i dont think it will actually affect the soil ph itself...

http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=EJNU502&AC=1 order some of this, or a similar product, to take care of things....


ok i have a question for ya, i have this white cottony spots on my stems and dont know what they are! I have been searching everywhere to find out what it is and so far no luck. i thought at first that maybe it was mealy bugs or something but i have been lookin over the plants more and more and still cant come to a decision. I need help bad, one branch of my clone has already went black but whats weird is that only a lil bit of it was black(closest to the stem) then the rest of the branch was still green! In fear of it spread to the stem i cut that branch off :(
I would really like any opinions and or suggestions on it! i have attached a couple pics sorry the pics are not the clearest! Thank you
if its white and cottony, to me it sounds like some sort of mold or mildew... which means your grow area has to little air movement and too much moisture..

try spraying with hydrogen peroxide.. it should take care of the problem.. it may take a couple applications but it should work..
 

jdizzle22

Well-Known Member
Fresh tap 7.5 pH, 2 day tap 6.5 pH :P I use a cheap 10 dollar Rapitest mini pH tester probe for soil and a cheap little bottle of General Hydroponics colored scale drop test thingy for fluids.
Watered all the plants with nothing added today, checked runoff pH for the first time, gonna start doing that regularly. How much of a difference between water pH and water runoff is considered normal?
Abby 286ppm runoff at 6.0 pH soil pH 5.5
Berri 230ppm runoff at 6.0 pH soil pH 5.5
Abby 216ppm runoff at 6.0 pH soil pH 5.5
Boy they really stay consistent with this 5.5 stuff! Even 6 days after feeding or right after feeding. The runoff is definitely not that low though, and is apparently 6.0 (does this mean the soil pH probe could be inaccurate either way?)

PS: Do you think I could benefit from any cheap home made CO2 enrichment during this flowering stage? If I put little dishes of that yeast recipe around the base of each stem would that help much? I looked up different cheap methods and they all sound like a ton of work. I don't know if I ever asked you but could I use my vaporizer? I have a i-olite i-inhale vaporizer. It never gets hot enough on the outside to burn anything and runs on butane. Normally with herbs in the chamber, it will run for a bit over 2 hours on a full tank ( 3.6ml / 0.122 fl oz butane tank). Do you think it could produce enough co2 to benefit a plant? *i imagine maybe putting it on top of a small platter next to a stem so the negative pressure in the tent pulls the co2 up?

PSS: I decided to start micromanaging the plants. I got out a drill and some string and I am roping down individual branches now so they don't get crammed under the canopy. Wondering how bad it is if I remove a few large fan? leaves so that some tops* can get better light and not be so cramped for space. Is what I am doing with the string in any way a bad idea? * Turns out the other 2 didn't need it, only Abby the smallest (one that grew fist/ball shaped forever). The other 2 did a much better job of not turning into super dense mutant jungles with twisted leaves. *I laugh thinking of roping (because I can't spell tieing?) Abby's higher up tops to lower branches (so branch tied to branch tied to pot) lol Looking at that picture now I realize how much more space she could be filling up if her branches pointed out more instead of up, probably gonna work on her some more tomorrow.
 

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simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
Fresh tap 7.5 pH, 2 day tap 6.5 pH :P I use a cheap 10 dollar Rapitest mini pH tester probe for soil and a cheap little bottle of General Hydroponics colored scale drop test thingy for fluids.
Watered all the plants with nothing added today, checked runoff pH for the first time, gonna start doing that regularly. How much of a difference between water pH and water runoff is considered normal?

the same or less than the feeding strength... careful using color strips for ph'ing.. reason is if you use nutes that are colored they will affect the read of the test strip...

Abby 286ppm runoff at 6.0 pH soil pH 5.5
Berri 230ppm runoff at 6.0 pH soil pH 5.5
Abby 216ppm runoff at 6.0 pH soil pH 5.5
Boy they really stay consistent with this 5.5 stuff! Even 6 days after feeding or right after feeding. The runoff is definitely not that low though, and is apparently 6.0 (does this mean the soil pH probe could be inaccurate either way?)

they may very well just like a lower ph soil... from the pic you put (assuming they are all similar) they look healthy and seem to be coming back around... they will never get as dark green as they were before.. but they will regain some..

PS: Do you think I could benefit from any cheap home made CO2 enrichment during this flowering stage? If I put little dishes of that yeast recipe around the base of each stem would that help much? I looked up different cheap methods and they all sound like a ton of work. I don't know if I ever asked you but could I use my vaporizer? I have a i-olite i-inhale vaporizer. It never gets hot enough on the outside to burn anything and runs on butane. Normally with herbs in the chamber, it will run for a bit over 2 hours on a full tank ( 3.6ml / 0.122 fl oz butane tank). Do you think it could produce enough co2 to benefit a plant? *i imagine maybe putting it on top of a small platter next to a stem so the negative pressure in the tent pulls the co2 up?

go with the yeast idea out of the two.. co2 is beneficial at all times really.. but typically i just did it in veg growth in my past... didnt see much added benefit during flowering like i did in veg.. but that shouldnt stop you from trying it out..

PSS: I decided to start micromanaging the plants. I got out a drill and some string and I am roping down individual branches now so they don't get crammed under the canopy. Wondering how bad it is if I remove a few large fan? leaves so that some tops* can get better light and not be so cramped for space. Is what I am doing with the string in any way a bad idea? * Turns out the other 2 didn't need it, only Abby the smallest (one that grew fist/ball shaped forever). The other 2 did a much better job of not turning into super dense mutant jungles with twisted leaves. *I laugh thinking of roping (because I can't spell tieing?) Abby's higher up tops to lower branches (so branch tied to branch tied to pot) lol Looking at that picture now I realize how much more space she could be filling up if her branches pointed out more instead of up, probably gonna work on her some more tomorrow.[/QUOTE]

flowers dont use the light to grow exactly.. they do absorb some light themselves.. but the bulk of the light absorbtion comes from the large fan leaves on the plant... removing the leaves is somewhat counter productive.. the fewer the leaves the less light absorbtion can take place and less energy is stored... that doesnt mean you cant remove a few if they are in your way or really hiding things... its best to try to move and tuck the leaves so they can still be used.. but a few selectively pruned fan leaves wont hurt..
 

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
So I was @ the local gardenin center pickin up some trimmers for the impending chop. BTW, I have to chop on a weekend, no way I'll have time during the week. SO I'm thinkin either next weekend, or the weekend after, prob the latter (3-27).

Prob. gonna do 3-4 days of flush just to be safe.

Here's where I effed up. I was @ shop speakin w/ some other patrons bout the 600 i just got in efforts to get better canopy penetration (per your advice). And I had x2 separate dudes (not together so independent sources), both say that pruning is key & essentially its best not to have a canopy.

Now, of course I decide that after your input I'm cool with not makin a single snip before chop day.

Then I get all nice & lit up late Friday night, and convinced myself (prob. wasn't really that well thought out, just a nice boner split second call ya make when ur sportin a good 'ol ripper). to start some slective pruning. Lookin for the lasrgest leaves that if removed, would allow space for light to penetrate to smaller bud sites @ bottom of plants needed some photo love.

No biggie, things obviously didn't crumble right that second.

But tonight, I gotta bunch of droopy ass plants (not too bad, but def. not nearly as lush & leaves are not nearly as erect, etc.)

DId I totally fuk the dog here, of you think I be alright, specially this close to the goal line.

My hypothesis is that perhaps the leaves are not there to evenly diperse all feedings, so whats left its get saturated, causing the wilting???? Total shot in the dark. But should I reduce feeding?

They are @ the point where they have drippers goin bout 50% of time (30 mins an hour). Love to know your thoughts on if I should reduce that back down to 15 or 20 mins per hour..

I'll put some pics up tonight or tomorro.

If you can let me know a worst case scenario that'd be great.

Also, I have noticed that some of the larger colas are lookin way closer to being finished as opposed to the guys lower down obviously.

Is this gonna be a situation where I should start choppin the largest @ the top & let the smaller ones down low roll for a few more days??

I'm sure pics will be what ya need for an accurate prognosis. I'll get em up as soon as I can.

Thanks as always my man, shoulda left em alone.

BTW, photo cubes are lookin very nice. Especially those moved to the hydrofarm. Currently have a timer on them lettin loose the drip ring for 20 mins / per hour. Those girls are ragin, super lush. Gonna get H20 farm under the 600 watt halide bulb til autos finish (unless you suggest otherwise). I'm quite sure I can cool it sufficiently. And I just wanna get those girls as massive as possible before switchin to hps bulb & flippin to 12/12.

Ok and finally some guidlelines for switchin photo girls.

Right now ALL (both in cubes in drip tray, as well as hydrofarm) have been on 24/0.

Could you please advise how to switch over properly to 12/12.

We discussed briefly before a few weeks back.

So, H20 farm will be under halide on 24/0 till autos are done. And cubes will continue @ 24/0 till they done as well (you know they goin in v-drip deal).

So, when the time comes, autos are all finished, etc. I will load up cubes into v-drip. And keep all (v-drip & waterfarm) on 24/0 lights to get them acclimated to HID's, (right?).

Then after perhaps a week I should make the switch to 12/12? And during these week should I start introducing bloom nutes before the photo switch? Or NO bloom nutes til they are on 12/12.

Since they been on 24/0, do I just pick which time period for 12/12 I want them on. Or is there are schedule that would be more beneficial to them (i.e. they like straight up 8am to 8pm).

And finally, when they are in 12/12 bloom cycle, how un-interupted do they need to be? I think I also remember reading that if you get a cheap green light bulb that you can work on plants (check res. ph, etc.) during their sleepy time.

Sorry for the barrage my man, but guess you are gettin used to it.

I can't say how invaluable of a resource you truly are bro.

Thanks a ton!
 

jdizzle22

Well-Known Member
Stupid daylight savings crap! Haha this morning I was upset because I thought the timer was screwy again and the lights didn't come on in time, but to the plants their day actually started 15 minutes early. And I didn't figure that out until just now, so I also turned everything off thinking it was screwy again, so their light went off an hour early (and for the sake of the bulbs health I got to wait 20-30 minutes to turn it back on). My question is this: Will it upset the plants if I switch their 12/12 schedule an hour ahead with the clock so it is once again 6 to 6 (instead of what would be 5 to 5 if I don't change anything)?

*Oh and I know its a terrible thing to ask anyone everywhere but I want to see if I might even be guessing in the right ballpark, what do you think these could possibly yield? If I get half a pound I would be pretty happy.*400w hortilux super hp and about 6 feet of plant length/height. I know its really hard to questimate something like this, I just wonder what your minimum estimation is, I really hope I get half a pound for my patient.
 

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showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
Sampson, so i was able to determine why everything was lookin droopy. Its cause when I changed out the reservoir Sat. night, the hose to the pump was not properly connected & essentially those girls went without any feeding for ohh, bout 24 hours.

Is that something they can recover from?

This set up is challenging. I believe I told ya bout my situation earlier, but essentially it leaves me with about x2 or 3 -5-10 minute intervals where I get to sneak on in there & hurry my ass off. Except @ night time, when I can get in there, but then have to worry bout how accurate my judgment is?

So yeah, gotta find some balance there. Stupid mistake.

Lemme know your thoughts. Thanks homey
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
So I was @ the local gardenin center pickin up some trimmers for the impending chop. BTW, I have to chop on a weekend, no way I'll have time during the week. SO I'm thinkin either next weekend, or the weekend after, prob the latter (3-27).

Prob. gonna do 3-4 days of flush just to be safe.

Here's where I effed up. I was @ shop speakin w/ some other patrons bout the 600 i just got in efforts to get better canopy penetration (per your advice). And I had x2 separate dudes (not together so independent sources), both say that pruning is key & essentially its best not to have a canopy.

Now, of course I decide that after your input I'm cool with not makin a single snip before chop day.

first what were you talking to them about growing?? that can make a big difference in the response...

here is why you want a canopy.. if your canopy is even, or close to even, then light is hitting everything equally... when your canopy is uneven some flowers are recieving more light than others... plus taller flowers can shade out lower flowers... this isnt as big of a deal if you have plenty of lighting.. like a couple bulbs in a room.. basically so the bulbs are covering a smaller area.. but if you only have 1 bulb, smaller bulbs, ect trying to keep an even canopy is pretty essential.. also, if you have multiple lights its still a good idea... otherwise you could have lights at different heights... which can cause a drop in efficieincy for your fans, or branches from taller plants could grow into lower hanging lights...


Then I get all nice & lit up late Friday night, and convinced myself (prob. wasn't really that well thought out, just a nice boner split second call ya make when ur sportin a good 'ol ripper). to start some slective pruning. Lookin for the lasrgest leaves that if removed, would allow space for light to penetrate to smaller bud sites @ bottom of plants needed some photo love.

No biggie, things obviously didn't crumble right that second.

But tonight, I gotta bunch of droopy ass plants (not too bad, but def. not nearly as lush & leaves are not nearly as erect, etc.)

DId I totally fuk the dog here, of you think I be alright, specially this close to the goal line.

My hypothesis is that perhaps the leaves are not there to evenly diperse all feedings, so whats left its get saturated, causing the wilting???? Total shot in the dark. But should I reduce feeding?

They are @ the point where they have drippers goin bout 50% of time (30 mins an hour). Love to know your thoughts on if I should reduce that back down to 15 or 20 mins per hour..

I'll put some pics up tonight or tomorro.

If you can let me know a worst case scenario that'd be great.

i know you said the feeding wasnt happening.. which is a big part of it.. but remember it in terms of this... those large fan leaves are collecting 90% of the light and turning it into energy for the plant... the flowers themselves dont abosob much light... removing a few is one thing... like 1 of every 4 or 5... but stripping them down is going to affect final yields..

also thats where the plant transpires a lot of water through... so it may affect how much water the plant drinks since it wont be expelling as much now.. so you may need to cut back on watering..


Also, I have noticed that some of the larger colas are lookin way closer to being finished as opposed to the guys lower down obviously.

Is this gonna be a situation where I should start choppin the largest @ the top & let the smaller ones down low roll for a few more days??

I'm sure pics will be what ya need for an accurate prognosis. I'll get em up as soon as I can.

the flowers closer to the light always finish before lower flowers (again another reason for an even canopy!!).. you can harvest the top flowers and then move down the plant if you want.. or you can harvest the lower ones at the same time.. either way is your call.. they lower ones are probably around 80% ready when the tops are fully ready... so you still make out well..


Thanks as always my man, shoulda left em alone.

ehh.. it happens...

BTW, photo cubes are lookin very nice. Especially those moved to the hydrofarm. Currently have a timer on them lettin loose the drip ring for 20 mins / per hour. Those girls are ragin, super lush. Gonna get H20 farm under the 600 watt halide bulb til autos finish (unless you suggest otherwise). I'm quite sure I can cool it sufficiently. And I just wanna get those girls as massive as possible before switchin to hps bulb & flippin to 12/12.

super crop them


Ok and finally some guidlelines for switchin photo girls.

Right now ALL (both in cubes in drip tray, as well as hydrofarm) have been on 24/0.

Could you please advise how to switch over properly to 12/12.

We discussed briefly before a few weeks back.

you can start cutting back the hours over a week to get them ready if you want... or you can go right into a 12/12 light cycle.. either way is fine... cutting them from 24/0 to 12/12 may shock them a little.. but if they are healthy it shouldnt/wont make any difference... i used to give them 24 to 36 hours of dark before going into 12/12... i dont anymore tho... i have found that with a good amount of veg time it didnt really help start flowering any faster.. maybe in younger slightly less mature plants it does...

So, H20 farm will be under halide on 24/0 till autos are done. And cubes will continue @ 24/0 till they done as well (you know they goin in v-drip deal).

So, when the time comes, autos are all finished, etc. I will load up cubes into v-drip. And keep all (v-drip & waterfarm) on 24/0 lights to get them acclimated to HID's, (right?).

Then after perhaps a week I should make the switch to 12/12? And during these week should I start introducing bloom nutes before the photo switch? Or NO bloom nutes til they are on 12/12.

Since they been on 24/0, do I just pick which time period for 12/12 I want them on. Or is there are schedule that would be more beneficial to them (i.e. they like straight up 8am to 8pm).

And finally, when they are in 12/12 bloom cycle, how un-interupted do they need to be? I think I also remember reading that if you get a cheap green light bulb that you can work on plants (check res. ph, etc.) during their sleepy time.

yeah, let them acclimate to the light for a week or so.. you can start introducing a small amount (1/4 strenght) of bloom nutes... both the awesome blossom and bloom is good... when you flip to 12/12 try to set the "day" hours to a good time for you... so you can work on shit at your convienence... if you find your room gets too warm you may choose to set the dark hours to during the day and have lights on at night.. when its all around cooler... i have heard the same thing about green bulbs.. i assume its true.. but again, i just have my hours set to when its easy for me to work..

Sorry for the barrage my man, but guess you are gettin used to it.

I can't say how invaluable of a resource you truly are bro.

Thanks a ton!
no prob bro.. glad to help

Stupid daylight savings crap! Haha this morning I was upset because I thought the timer was screwy again and the lights didn't come on in time, but to the plants their day actually started 15 minutes early. And I didn't figure that out until just now, so I also turned everything off thinking it was screwy again, so their light went off an hour early (and for the sake of the bulbs health I got to wait 20-30 minutes to turn it back on). My question is this: Will it upset the plants if I switch their 12/12 schedule an hour ahead with the clock so it is once again 6 to 6 (instead of what would be 5 to 5 if I don't change anything)?

*Oh and I know its a terrible thing to ask anyone everywhere but I want to see if I might even be guessing in the right ballpark, what do you think these could possibly yield? If I get half a pound I would be pretty happy.*400w hortilux super hp and about 6 feet of plant length/height. I know its really hard to questimate something like this, I just wonder what your minimum estimation is, I really hope I get half a pound for my patient.
put them to bed early one night and wake them up and hour later the next day to correct things.. its better to give them extra dark then the extra light.. if that makes sense..

alright... if i had to make a guess from my experiences.... assuming things go pretty well... i would guess between 4 to 6 ounces this grow... its very possible to get to 8 ounces or more.. but that would need the introduction of clones and shit... but it is possible to get it the first time too... its a really hard to guess thing...

Sampson, so i was able to determine why everything was lookin droopy. Its cause when I changed out the reservoir Sat. night, the hose to the pump was not properly connected & essentially those girls went without any feeding for ohh, bout 24 hours.

Is that something they can recover from?

This set up is challenging. I believe I told ya bout my situation earlier, but essentially it leaves me with about x2 or 3 -5-10 minute intervals where I get to sneak on in there & hurry my ass off. Except @ night time, when I can get in there, but then have to worry bout how accurate my judgment is?

So yeah, gotta find some balance there. Stupid mistake.

Lemme know your thoughts. Thanks homey

what do you mean about the 2 or 3 - 5 to 10 minute intervals??

they will be fine from the watering thing also.. meant to say that earlier..
 

showhard2handle

Well-Known Member
no prob bro.. glad to help



put them to bed early one night and wake them up and hour later the next day to correct things.. its better to give them extra dark then the extra light.. if that makes sense..

alright... if i had to make a guess from my experiences.... assuming things go pretty well... i would guess between 4 to 6 ounces this grow... its very possible to get to 8 ounces or more.. but that would need the introduction of clones and shit... but it is possible to get it the first time too... its a really hard to guess thing...




what do you mean about the 2 or 3 - 5 to 10 minute intervals??

they will be fine from the watering thing also.. meant to say that earlier..
Hey homey, sorry for confusion bout the "2-3, 5 minute intervals" that is how often I am actually able to sneak in the closet & check out them girls. Unless it is late night, when I tend to not be quite as "sharp".

Essentially just tryin to make a sorry ass excuse to explain why I did not notice that my poor girls weren't being fed.

Not ideal situations, but gonna have to work with it til we move, and I can get set up in a new space.

But, I can say I am DEF. learning some lessons.

Fortunately, I went home on lunch & checked them out, they look x10 times better, obv.

Since they are gettin close to end of their life, what do you think bout lettin them stay on a constant drip? Like I said, they were on gettin dripped on bout 50% of time anyway. And i remember you sayin that I'd be surprised how much they could handle.

The waterfarm w/ the 4 girlies in it is totally rockin (even with that ghetty chandelier), very lush, lookin sweet.

Lookin forward to chop!!

If I don't kill 'em in the tween I really will get some pics up for the doc's analysis.

thanks man,
 

simpsonsampson420

Well-Known Member
i wouldnt increase the watering at all.. its more about how much nutes they can use.. not the water.. you can up the concentration of nutes if you want... but i wouldnt increase the watering itself
 
I dont think its mold. There is like no humidty in my grow rooms. i have a oscillating fan on giving them air for the time period that the lights are on!
 
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