upside down trial

dtp5150

Well-Known Member
how about a fishing line on a rubber band that is cut open, so basically put the rubber band between the tie down and the fishing line so that you can tension it and it would hold it tight for a while without constant adjusting? oh nevermind, i see weights are the best idea.

Also i think this is the first online documented upside down weed grow! i remember trying to find one a while ago without success.
 

Anji420

Member
I have also been curious to see if this would work and how the plant would grow. Very interesting project! :clap: I'm subscribed and ready for more updates
 

Shrubs First

Well-Known Member
I'm not making any predictions, but in plant bio I learned that plants
contain what are called amyoplasts, or staloliths in certain contexts,
These are heavier than the cytoplasm and will settle out under
gravity. When they touch the endoplasmic reticulum a signal of
some kind is generated that results in correction of growth. Usually this
means positive geotropism (or growth in response to gravity) in roots
and negative geotropism in shoots (meaning they grow away from gravity)

But I'd like to see you keep tryin it.
 

SeanIzen

Active Member
So have you grown with a UV bulb before?! I dont know why but i've never thought of this im sure it would help the grow a little because the sun puts out UV also! any one else tried these? always wondered about the "topsy turvy" planter myself *subscribed*
 
So have you grown with a UV bulb before?! I dont know why but i've never thought of this im sure it would help the grow a little because the sun puts out UV also! QUOTE]

yes you are right that the sun puts out uv light but not all of it reaches the earth(ground) and not all of it is useful for our purposes. i believe the numbers are 280-290nm are the best for buds. these are uvb. reptile uv bulbs have them, most fluoros have them and hid, just not in the % that we want them. bud uses tricromes as a sort of sunblock so to speak, which is most influenced by these wavelengths. more uv= more trichromes. this is my experience with this and i am not sure where i got some of this info, but i believe most of it was from rosenthals. they make uvb fluoro tubes of the 40w 4ft type (as well as others) that are almost specifically 280-320nm, and NB(narrowband) uvb bulbs which i not sure of the wavelength but its around 280 or so but only that wavelength. these are used for light therapy for skin conditions. i use the uvb 40 4ft 280-320 style but i gradually introduce them over a period of time throughout the plants life til they are running the full time. i have noticed huge changes in my buds! these are the best advise i could give anyone, just make absolutly sure you know what you are doing as they are dangerous and will burn you!!, always have them on a seperate switch/timer or whatever that you can turn off before/as you enter the room. i use these type as the fixtures for them are dirt cheap... your standard workshop light. they are expensive
 
I'm not making any predictions, but in plant bio I learned that plants
contain what are called amyoplasts, or staloliths in certain contexts,
These are heavier than the cytoplasm and will settle out under
gravity. When they touch the endoplasmic reticulum a signal of
some kind is generated that results in correction of growth. Usually this
means positive geotropism (or growth in response to gravity) in roots
and negative geotropism in shoots (meaning they grow away from gravity)

But I'd like to see you keep tryin it.
thank you and very important info... yes its true and i actually knew all of this before i started and had seen many other trials, but i thought there has to be a way to overcome certain things. this is exactly why i did this and posted it as i generally do not brag about grows or discuss any details but i also know that two heads is better than one so i brought it to my favorite site hoping that people(much like yourself) would offer their 2cents and maybe see a result. thanks again
 

Joker209

Well-Known Member
so im closing it on a week, thought i would post a new picture. got a pic from side of container but its head on with the top of the plant, i also have a side view of the plant showing its "j" shape. so far i can get the leaves to bend in certain directions using light direction but i am havng trouble getting the tip to point straight down. bout time to try some weight. also i added my 27 watt negative ion 2700k bulb to the mix. i recieved the uv bulb but they sent me the wrong one. i am lookin around i am not pressed about the uv bulb at the moment. as both my 68 watt cfl and 27 watt negative ion cfl are both 2700k i still have my extra 27 watt 6500k cfl on it also, as it responds most to this light. i want to throw more blue in the mix but i am not impressed enough with the grow to try that yet, i wanna work out this "j". although since the plant is responding most to the 6500k bulb the problem i am having is not enough "blue" light to pull it down. i am think on this maybe someone out there will read this and offer suggestion.
I feel that I may be able to help you with your light issue. The plant will react more to >5000k better than anything under 5000k due to the photosynthesis process of the plant. The plant thrives on particular colors to allow leaf and stem growth stimulation. If most veg lights are a blue spectrum (5000k+) and flower are red spectrum (3000k-) then the reasoning behind it has to do with reactivity right? Here is a chart I found while doing some reading on this myself a few days ago. I hope it helps and I hope you know how to read a chart lol.



What the chart says is that the chlorophyll is at a peak activity in a 5500k light spectrum which will better stimulate growth hormones found in a plant. Best for vegetative state. You should be able to train your plant using this chart.
 

bloatedcraig

Well-Known Member
You do know that if this works, it will hermie on ya. Imagine how stressed you would be hung upside down for your entire life. Only a thought, i love this can't believe no one has done this before.
 

Shrubs First

Well-Known Member
the link doesn't go with the pic, the journal in the link didnt get past like week 2.

But yes that pic shows it can be done, but I would like to see the thread. if it exists.
 
the link doesn't go with the pic, the journal in the link didnt get past like week 2.

But yes that pic shows it can be done, but I would like to see the thread. if it exists.
true and this is one reason why i want to try to do daily updates and pictures so that there is a recorded account. there are other grows as i have seen many of these, i have seen even more questions about them. so here it is my experience with the topsy turvy, in detail
 

bloatedcraig

Well-Known Member
I recon that the plant has been vegged the right way up and then upside down on flowering. Maybe it was turned upside down half way through flowering, that plant does not look the right shape of something the has grown a long time like that, but then again i have never seen one grown upside down. One fact remains there is no way the stem would be that straight.

Keep up the experiment though, were all rooting for ya.
 

Pon De Floor

Active Member
I've been wondering about this myself.

If the same principals apply as far as nutrients flowing down, would that make the main cola massive?

Either way, you seem to have a really nice system going for this experiment, i'm excited to see what happens!
 
yeah that bucket picture is great. i think the weight is suitable although i think the plant would still turn up in that situation, it looks to me that the light is above and to the right of the plant, i am just trying to do it all from seed to harvest upside down with the light directly below the plant. as far as the nutrients go and getting one big cola, i sure hope thats how this works.
 
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