Looking for Some Organic Options

EvansInUK

Well-Known Member
As people are mixing the point of my question up:

What ORGANIC mix/mixes has anyone had success with; I mean from experience, and what mix and how much did you use - if you don't mind sharing this info. The worm castings brand I know which one I want. Also I can get plenty of organic mixes, like Kelp/Rock Dust etc off of ebay,

I was thinking of doing this mix up; But mix ratios are unknown but this was just an idea

Organic Soil (100% organic compost from green veg waste)
Perlite / Vermiculite I guess 1 to 2 Parts Soil mix
Gaia Green Kelp Meal 1-0-2 Mix formula - provides the N and K
Worm Castings - Phosphorus mix (I presume) as well as some rock dust. Worm Castings I only wish to top dress later on
Rock Dust - for basic food from planting - providing main source of P
Finally some Biowar roots and nutes pack. (always wanted to try this out)

During Veg stage I could even add this just to boost N? https://www.planetnatural.com/product/age-old-microsynergy/ then drop later on?


Anyone got any suggestions, see any issues or problems with this? if so, feel free to criticize but in a positive way please, This is new to me.
 
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Newcangro

Well-Known Member
Flushing doesn't do anything at the end beside remove all the food your plants need to finish strong. Feed right up until the very end.

As far as your ratios for your soil I will let someone with more experience chime in on that. But I'm thinking you need more than rock dust and kelp but I could be wrong. Head over to the organics category, you should be able to find a good mix in there
 

EvansInUK

Well-Known Member
Flush lol
I don't get whats funny, I presumed (YOU ARE UNABLE TO FLUSH) with nutrients actually in the soil, hence my question would there be a build up of nutrients or salts.. or does that only occur with chemical nutrients... I didn;t think flush would be possible, hence why i asked would it be an issue
 

EvansInUK

Well-Known Member
Flushing doesn't do anything at the end beside remove all the food your plants need to finish strong. Feed right up until the very end.

As far as your ratios for your soil I will let someone with more experience chime in on that. But I'm thinking you need more than rock dust and kelp but I could be wrong. Head over to the organics category, you should be able to find a good mix in there

This is why I asked, as Kelp provides some micro/nutrients, the organic compost also has nutrients, and the Kelp (non liquid form) I thought would be a long time breaking it down, it says it could last years "GAIA GREEN Kelp Meal is a rich source of plant nutrients. Particularly high in potassium, Kelp Meal adds organic matter to the soil to enhance plant nutrition and improve resistance to abiotic stress. Due to the slow breakdown of kelp meal over time, benefits may be observed for years after the initial application " also the worm castings provides a whole host of other nutrients. The kelp was just a Nitrogen/Potassium source, and the rock phosphate takes a while to also break down, bat guano is like a short term phosphorus, while rock dust is long term.

EDIT- If this should be in organic please move, I am not really on forums much, and am terrible using them, sorry. I am old school lol, word and mouth type of guy.
 
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jondamon

Well-Known Member
I don't get whats funny, I presumed (YOU ARE UNABLE TO FLUSH) with nutrients actually in the soil, hence my question would there be a build up of nutrients or salts.. or does that only occur with chemical nutrients... I didn;t think flush would be possible, hence why i asked would it be an issue
The thing is that flushing is always a hot topic here.

those that have grown this plant for a while know that it’s not possible to remove nutrients from a plant.

Others here believe in allowing your plant to ripen and then use some plain water for the last couple of days only after the plant is ripe and ready.

Some never reduce their nutrients while others taper their nutrients down towards the end of flower

Trying to flush organics is a bit of faux par, as you supply organic compounds to the soil for the micro herd to convert into usable ionic compounds for uptake.
 

Herb & Suds

Well-Known Member
I don't get whats funny, I presumed (YOU ARE UNABLE TO FLUSH) with nutrients actually in the soil, hence my question would there be a build up of nutrients or salts.. or does that only occur with chemical nutrients... I didn;t think flush would be possible, hence why i asked would it be an issue
Flushing out excess salt is when to flush
In organics no salts to flush
So no flushing at all
 

EvansInUK

Well-Known Member
The thing is that flushing is always a hot topic here.

those that have grown this plant for a while know that it’s not possible to remove nutrients from a plant.

Others here believe in allowing your plant to ripen and then use some plain water for the last couple of days only after the plant is ripe and ready.

Some never reduce their nutrients while others taper their nutrients down towards the end of flower

Trying to flush organics is a bit of faux par, as you supply organic compounds to the soil for the micro herd to convert into usable ionic compounds for uptake.
Yeah I noticed, I was not here to debate the flush or not flush part though, more interested in the mix to be honest, Sorry I even mentioned it now, and what I read was usin some nutes they said flush last weeks, hence why I wanted "TRY" organic out, and just water with little extra;s through the grow.

TOPIC was about the MIX mostly./...
 

DancesWithWeeds

Well-Known Member
This is a rather large batch, proportionate mix if you want less. It is expensive but it will last MMJ users a long time. They say the soil last thru several grows, just add a little more SS nutes. They didn’t say how much to add for the next grow so I just add half a portion. That’s what the out door plants are in now.

14 bags of potting soil (I use Roots Organic)
25 pounds worm castings minimum
5 pounds blood meal
5 pounds feather meal
5 pounds bat guano
2.5 pounds bone meal
2.5 pounds fish bone meal
3 cups oyster shell
5 pounds kelp meal (recipe calls 3 cups)
2 cups aziomite (shouldn’t cut this short)
3/4 cup epson salt
2 tablespoons mycorrhiza

Store what you don’t use in baggies in a warm place.

this is honestly the best soil I’ve ever used.
 

calvin.m16

Well-Known Member
I just used M3 Mix (Michigan Made Mix) with plain water for the first 2 months then started feeding Green Planet Medi-One (organic) and Budswel (organic) and had great results just very expensive to grow with those products at even a modest scale.

Keep it simple, the more shit you add the more you will question what worked and what didn't, what caused an issue and what didn't etc..

Also, most organic "dry amendments" are in raw form they haven't been broken down yet, that can sometimes take months for certain ones to actually be plant available. If you're not mixing dry amendments into the soil during transplant then I dont think its very useful. "top dressing" never worked for me when I used to grow in soil. Plants would show deficiencies before the top dress kicked in.
 

EvansInUK

Well-Known Member
This is a rather large batch, proportionate mix if you want less. It is expensive but it will last MMJ users a long time. They say the soil last thru several grows, just add a little more SS nutes. They didn’t say how much to add for the next grow so I just add half a portion. That’s what the out door plants are in now.

14 bags of potting soil (I use Roots Organic)
25 pounds worm castings minimum
5 pounds blood meal
5 pounds feather meal
5 pounds bat guano
2.5 pounds bone meal
2.5 pounds fish bone meal
3 cups oyster shell
5 pounds kelp meal (recipe calls 3 cups)
2 cups aziomite (shouldn’t cut this short)
3/4 cup epson salt
2 tablespoons mycorrhiza

Store what you don’t use in baggies in a warm place.

this is honestly the best soil I’ve ever used. -
Well that's some list. What is the mix ratio of all of them, is that one GIANT mix??? if so holy crap! lol Azomite I believe I have heard of. But man, I would need to break this down lol into smaller ratios like 1/4. HAHA but this is What I am looking for :D
 

EvansInUK

Well-Known Member
I just used M3 Mix (Michigan Made Mix) with plain water for the first 2 months then started feeding Green Planet Medi-One (organic) and Budswel (organic) and had great results just very expensive to grow with those products at even a modest scale.

Keep it simple, the more shit you add the more you will question what worked and what didn't, what caused an issue and what didn't etc..

Also, most organic "dry amendments" are in raw form they haven't been broken down yet, that can sometimes take months for certain ones to actually be plant available. If you're not mixing dry amendments into the soil during transplant then I dont think its very useful. "top dressing" never worked for me when I used to grow in soil. Plants would show deficiencies before the top dress kicked in.
how would you suggest I go about it then; this is what I was looking at;

an Organic Compost - with added biochar
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354152723136?hash=item527525b2c0:g:abAAAOSwfUdixuFw&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA4Dv7fdyFo0EOeZDnvm/zwahuMcaYVkfmC6jOfFLPYfEpTDg/hCNDdZWYHTod+mJ4AdOxymzfpgDKyAoh/ycEjolJ/ZOnVKEVkW5+efMUW57+QqZr2mwJj/TyiyIwE+Ci1vZk+OWR1xNVJBCBjU2FMvuB2+mq8SI18xw2ufyEjgnrot1tTUfToHydNh2+2i7EyRHKVbXGoEWjW/nbe+qfzbWCA7BMVhnbJuK2M5WkHcsk18p57CC06/0Tw2GWbHc8rx5pmnUigCzBwnDLFnTCS99HqA62d07hv/z3Rp6lnDTe|tkp:BFBM2ufphcZg u got this
and work castings

I am assuming their "Dry" Amendments right? Also the compost would be the main base to go directly into; so are those above useless?
 

bk78

Well-Known Member
I just used M3 Mix (Michigan Made Mix) with plain water for the first 2 months then started feeding Green Planet Medi-One (organic) and Budswel (organic) and had great results just very expensive to grow with those products at even a modest scale.

Keep it simple, the more shit you add the more you will question what worked and what didn't, what caused an issue and what didn't etc..

Also, most organic "dry amendments" are in raw form they haven't been broken down yet, that can sometimes take months for certain ones to actually be plant available. If you're not mixing dry amendments into the soil during transplant then I dont think its very useful. "top dressing" never worked for me when I used to grow in soil. Plants would show deficiencies before the top dress kicked in.
Damn you’re a organic and LED grower now? The many faces of Mr M16
 

calvin.m16

Well-Known Member
how would you suggest I go about it then; this is what I was looking at;

an Organic Compost - with added biochar
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354152723136?hash=item527525b2c0:g:abAAAOSwfUdixuFw&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA4Dv7fdyFo0EOeZDnvm/zwahuMcaYVkfmC6jOfFLPYfEpTDg/hCNDdZWYHTod+mJ4AdOxymzfpgDKyAoh/ycEjolJ/ZOnVKEVkW5+efMUW57+QqZr2mwJj/TyiyIwE+Ci1vZk+OWR1xNVJBCBjU2FMvuB2+mq8SI18xw2ufyEjgnrot1tTUfToHydNh2+2i7EyRHKVbXGoEWjW/nbe+qfzbWCA7BMVhnbJuK2M5WkHcsk18p57CC06/0Tw2GWbHc8rx5pmnUigCzBwnDLFnTCS99HqA62d07hv/z3Rp6lnDTe|tkp:BFBM2ufphcZg u got this
and work castings

I am assuming their "Dry" Amendments right? Also the compost would be the main base to go directly into; so are those above useless?
Right from their website: "GAIA GREEN Kelp Meal is a rich source of plant nutrients. Particularly high in potassium, Kelp Meal adds organic matter to the soil to enhance plant nutrition and improve resistance to abiotic stress. Due to the slow breakdown of kelp meal over time, benefits may be observed for years after the initial application. This product can be used on home gardens, landscapes, lawn, and turf, and is suitable for a full range of plant types."

Those "meals" are more for garden beds and stuff that is going to be around a while, for potted plants it is not very useful as your putting something that has to break down sometimes over months to actually provide usable chemicals for the plant.

Dry Amendments, especially Gaia Green seem to really be popular after all the YouTubers started pushing it, they're all sponsored and get free product to tell people to buy it and use it. Your plants will be better off with it, but likely your not getting the full potential of the product or your plants using it in a potted style where your not re-using the soil like in a garden bed or living soil etc..

---

I'd recommend looking into things like organic fish based fertilizers, guanos and stuff that the plants can immediately start getting food from where the breakdown is already done. You also will need much less of it since the plants will take it up right away as needed vs gradually get little tastes of it from the meals breaking down from microbiology etc.
 

bk78

Well-Known Member
Right from their website: "GAIA GREEN Kelp Meal is a rich source of plant nutrients. Particularly high in potassium, Kelp Meal adds organic matter to the soil to enhance plant nutrition and improve resistance to abiotic stress. Due to the slow breakdown of kelp meal over time, benefits may be observed for years after the initial application. This product can be used on home gardens, landscapes, lawn, and turf, and is suitable for a full range of plant types."

Those "meals" are more for garden beds and stuff that is going to be around a while, for potted plants it is not very useful as your putting something that has to break down sometimes over months to actually provide usable chemicals for the plant.

Dry Amendments, especially Gaia Green seem to really be popular after all the YouTubers started pushing it, they're all sponsored and get free product to tell people to buy it and use it. Your plants will be better off with it, but likely your not getting the full potential of the product or your plants using it in a potted style where your not re-using the soil like in a garden bed or living soil etc..

---

I'd recommend looking into things like organic fish based fertilizers, guanos and stuff that the plants can immediately start getting food from where the breakdown is already done. You also will need much less of it since the plants will take it up right away as needed vs gradually get little tastes of it from the meals breaking down from microbiology etc.

Gaia green has been around for decades here dude. Before your coveted YouTube was even a thing.
 

bk78

Well-Known Member
how would you suggest I go about it then; this is what I was looking at;

an Organic Compost - with added biochar
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354152723136?hash=item527525b2c0:g:abAAAOSwfUdixuFw&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA4Dv7fdyFo0EOeZDnvm/zwahuMcaYVkfmC6jOfFLPYfEpTDg/hCNDdZWYHTod+mJ4AdOxymzfpgDKyAoh/ycEjolJ/ZOnVKEVkW5+efMUW57+QqZr2mwJj/TyiyIwE+Ci1vZk+OWR1xNVJBCBjU2FMvuB2+mq8SI18xw2ufyEjgnrot1tTUfToHydNh2+2i7EyRHKVbXGoEWjW/nbe+qfzbWCA7BMVhnbJuK2M5WkHcsk18p57CC06/0Tw2GWbHc8rx5pmnUigCzBwnDLFnTCS99HqA62d07hv/z3Rp6lnDTe|tkp:BFBM2ufphcZg u got this
and work castings

I am assuming their "Dry" Amendments right? Also the compost would be the main base to go directly into; so are those above useless?
The guy who’s trying to help you has 0 experience with growing organically, be carful who you take tips from around here
 

EvansInUK

Well-Known Member
Right from their website: "GAIA GREEN Kelp Meal is a rich source of plant nutrients. Particularly high in potassium, Kelp Meal adds organic matter to the soil to enhance plant nutrition and improve resistance to abiotic stress. Due to the slow breakdown of kelp meal over time, benefits may be observed for years after the initial application. This product can be used on home gardens, landscapes, lawn, and turf, and is suitable for a full range of plant types."

Those "meals" are more for garden beds and stuff that is going to be around a while, for potted plants it is not very useful as your putting something that has to break down sometimes over months to actually provide usable chemicals for the plant.

Dry Amendments, especially Gaia Green seem to really be popular after all the YouTubers started pushing it, they're all sponsored and get free product to tell people to buy it and use it. Your plants will be better off with it, but likely your not getting the full potential of the product or your plants using it in a potted style where your not re-using the soil like in a garden bed or living soil etc..

---

yeah kelp seems to take about 4 months to break down, thought I seen it go quicker; but here is what a site says about the ebay stuff...

A Kelp meal fertilizer
When you see Kelp meal, that means kelp algae that has been ground down into a mulch ready for direct use. Kelp meal can be applied directly to the soil or root bed of a plant.
The kelp meal application rate is around one pound (1 lb.) of kelp meal for an average of 100 sq. ft. of soil. It will begin releasing nutrients after around four months, so should generally be applied early.
Meal like this is high in trace minerals, but low in NPK (nitrate-phosphate-potassium,) meaning that kelp meal should generally be used alongside a high quality fertilizer.
Out of all varieties of kelp, meal is likely to contain the lowest levels of active ingredients. You may also find that there can be other organic material in the meal.
Kelp Powder
Powdered kelp is meal that has been reduced further, to the point that it is small enough to be used in solution or mixed directly into existing fertilizer treatments.
Kelp powder can be used similarly to kelp meal, but is also suitable for spraying directly onto plants in order to aid fruiting and flowering.


The nutrients in kelp powder are immediately bioavailable. This makes kelp powder more suited for plants which have been recently planted or are currently growing.
It should be used in a concentration of around ½ a teaspoon per gallon of water, and is safe to be used with fertilizer injectors or existing irrigation systems.
 

DancesWithWeeds

Well-Known Member
Well that's some list. What is the mix ratio of all of them, is that one GIANT mix??? if so holy crap! lol Azomite I believe I have heard of. But man, I would need to break this down lol into smaller ratios like 1/4. HAHA but this is What I am looking for :D
I wouldn’t make so much but great grandpa seems to be the family grower and chemist (medicine man if you will).
I used all my soil when my two people needed RSO. That used almost all my RSO so I’m trying to replenish the stock. There has been cancer and I had enough to them but now we need maintenance doses.
 
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