That sucks. The ts3000 uses smd led doesn’t it ?Why avoid SF? I think i am making up my mind and probl go for the Mars Hydro ts 3000 Because of the price. With shipping the Spider Farmer is close to 200 USD more... I guess everything is better than ny 176 true watt
Yes but TS 3000 use Epistar diodes witch i do not know anything about :/ or the Samsung diodes for that matter...
I think SMD stand for Surface Mounted Diodes
If you are comparing the same bin 301b diodes to 301h diodes, there is no difference, check the datasheets to see for yourself:
Earlier in the thread there was a video posted that and the guy in the video via the Samsung web page showed there is a difference . I’m just saying what I’m seeing lol
Exactly my thought. But even Spider Farmer replied with an email stating that the number B and H is just for different regional sales. But i beg to differ.
I had one and sold it because I didn't like it. Nice fit and finish. Felt ripped off when I realized it was set below 240 watts and I'd void my warranty if I changed it, BUT to dim the first generation lights (no potentiometer) you had to pull the Lo port and use a phillips to dim them manually. Now they have the switch, but less than 240 watts is bad in flower because these style LEDs are low on intensity even at max wattage. I paid $392 Canadian for it and the Fusion boards with 240 watts were $345. I personally think there are better LEDs out there thanSpider Farmer.Why avoid SF? I think i am making up my mind and probl go for the Mars Hydro ts 3000 Because of the price. With shipping the Spider Farmer is close to 200 USD more... I guess everything is better than ny 176 true watt
So you had spider farmer led and sold it? Did i get that part right?
That’s what he’s saying
My friend wanted it bad for a grow light to back up his blurples so I sold it to him. I told him it was set to 240 watts and he was happy with it like that. Still running.
horticulturelightinggroup.com
That guy was wrong. I'm showing you the official datasheets from Samsung, which have real numbers, not some out of date website shown on a YouTube video.
The guy in the video is speculating, and his speculations are wrong.
The B's came first, and were measured in lumens, because lumens are for humans, and lm301b diodes were intended for area lights. Once LED companies started using those diodes in mass, Samsung introduced the "H" version, which they measure in umol/j, because that's you measure horticultural lights. The only difference is that they don't have the lower bin options with the H version like they do with the B version. If you are sure that your LED fixture is made with top bin LM301B diodes, it's exactly the same as using LM301H diodes. Where it gets tricky is manufactures who you can't trust to guarantee using top bin LM301B diodes, such as Mars Hydro, who has openly (and likely accidently) admitted that they do not use top bin LM301B diodes, because they would have to charge more for their fixtures as the top bin diodes are more costly for them. Basically what that means is that Mars Hydro lights will be about 10%to 15% less bright than manufactures who do use top bin diodes.
No, it still stands for Surface Mount Device.
Not trying to be a dick, but how do we know the things that guy is telling us are completely accurate. I heard the h's where only a couple efficacy points higher then the b's not a 2.7 to 3.3 jump.
Not separately but I have one of each in my flower tent. The MH is brighter but I havent messed with the settings of the SF, it likely comes from the factory dialed down a bit more. As far as overall quality my SF seems to be far superior.
