Going from HPS to LED. Worth it?

Flowki said:
But he's kind of right, a fan has the ability to fail. I don't know the thermal protection of such a unit under fan failure?, but I would personally prefer something that is designed to be passively cooled. That way you require multiple other failures to really be in the shit.
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That's why there's redundancy -- fewer single points of failure.
One of my platinums has had a dead fan for almost a whole year and works just fine.

I'll get around to that one of these days... :eyesmoke:
 
Buddernugs said:
LEDs produce rock hard.....and I mean rock hard buds....no contest even with 1000w...they also produce buds with way more crystals and resin....iv done side by sids with led and 1000w hortilux and when I put that shit in the dab press the LEDs had waaaaaaay more yeild
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No shit, they are hard as fuck. What looks like an ounce is really 2 because they're so dense. CMH makes them frostier, but LED makes them denser.
 
Buddernugs said:
LEDs produce rock hard.....and I mean rock hard buds....no contest even with 1000w...they also produce buds with way more crystals and resin....iv done side by sids with led and 1000w hortilux and when I put that shit in the dab press the LEDs had waaaaaaay more yeild
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The biggest mistake I see people make with bright LEDs is underfeeding. That's where the 'meh' buds come from.
Gotta dial up the nutes, especially cal-mag.
 
Buddernugs said:
LEDs produce rock hard.....and I mean rock hard buds....no contest even with 1000w...they also produce buds with way more crystals and resin....iv done side by sids with led and 1000w hortilux and when I put that shit in the dab press the LEDs had waaaaaaay more yeild
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Weren't you asking what dabs were earlier tho?
 
Chunky Stool said:
You could say the same thing about computers.

A tablet pc doesn't pull as much power as a high performance gaming system, but that's just me... :roll:
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LED diodes and drivers run perfectly fine with passive cooling heatsinks. So why stick them in a box and then add fans to cool it. Seems redundant IMO.
 
Xcoregamerskillz said:
Never plan on buying another pre-built light. Not gonna knock a light I never used this. Especially since Chunky Knows his shit.

This is true. Passive cooling has its own related costs though, but insurance against failure is a big plus.
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Thanks for the compliment! Growing is an adventure and I usually learn by fucking shit up. :eyesmoke:

Regarding lights, high quality pre-builts are expensive AF!
Most growers would be WAY better off to go with a DIY kit if they are looking for value.

My LED lights were actually given to me by a close friend who quit growing and tore is grow room down. (It was better than mine by a long shot.)
It was a very generous gift and I am grateful.

Karma can be a good thing... :peace:
 
PadawanWarrior said:
It's because they lack UV, but you can add it. The UV makes a huge difference for frostiness. My favorite is CMH with LED. Best of both worlds. Dense and frosty.
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Depends on the light. My black dog has UV-B but the platinums don't.

Gotta be careful with UV supplementation. It doesn't take much to reach a point of diminishing returns.
Lizard lights are pretty safe and work great in small spaces.
 
NukaKola said:
This is the thread you seek. Results show that UVB isn’t necessary.

THC, CBD, Terpene test results – UVA vs UVB vs none

As some of you might know, former member Or_Gro did a side-by-side comparing three different types of LED boards with supplementary UV reptile bulbs. He also did a control grow without any UV at all. The test results are interesting because UV clearly works – an increase of almost 20%! But...
www.rollitup.org
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UV is not necessary but I think it makes a difference.
If you grow with MH, you're already getting UV as part of the blue spectrum.

I've got a 1,200w frankenlight with 2 fixtures that I used to run MH & HPS together. (2 - 600w digital ballasts.)
It worked GREAT -- and I could use cheap bulbs, which saved a ton of moolah.

I would use it again if the conditions were right. (Relatively small grow space w/cool temps where the extra heat is welcome.)
 
NukaKola said:
Something I learned from years of growing with HID's. Ballast with active cooling = cheap with high failure rates, ballast with passive cooling = expensive but high quality.
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Yes indeed.
All of my ballasts are passive -- and it's because the models with fans only have ONE fan.
Fans die, they just do.
That's why redundancy is good.

When a ballast fan goes out, ideally the software would detect the failure and shut down.
Worst case is undetected overheating and all the fun that goes with that... :o
 
I like to experiment I also believe in light spread I'm going to try a 250w hps against with my led once I get a little stash put aside.

My own buds strain dependant take a bit beating for frosty using mh and hps.
 
Chunky Stool said:
Yes indeed.
All of my ballasts are passive -- and it's because the models with fans only have ONE fan.
Fans die, they just do.
That's why redundancy is good.

When a ballast fan goes out, ideally the software would detect the failure and shut down.
Worst case is undetected overheating and all the fun that goes with that... :o
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I'd rather have one less thing that can fail. I don't buy stuff knowing that the shit's gonna fail on me. I consider it old school tech.
 
Chunky Stool said:
Yes indeed.
All of my ballasts are passive -- and it's because the models with fans only have ONE fan.
Fans die, they just do.
That's why redundancy is good.

When a ballast fan goes out, ideally the software would detect the failure and shut down.
Worst case is undetected overheating and all the fun that goes with that... :o
Click to expand...
The fan is pointless. Passive heatsinks work fine on their own, they don't need a fan, and don't fail. When you stick a heatsink inside a closed box, then it needs a fan because it can't do its job properly. Why take something that doesn't fail or have a risk of overheating and create a situation where it can. Just a poor design.
 
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