JakStraw from Wichita
Active Member
I could see lower EC with RO water, I’ve heard tap is better because it has buffers and help keep ph from jumping around
Help? Never seen this before! Mutant or???
- Thread starter JakStraw from Wichita
- Start date
cobshopgrow
Well-Known Member
i cant tell you if tis good tbh.
myself wont go over 1.7EC with that mix, more like 1.5 and watch runoff, if it stays within 0.2-0.3 more max they eat it.
Water is freakin complicated, differs a LOT.
You simply have to try, for me RO is more stable as i have tons of calcium carbonate in my tap, needs tons of ph-.
in most cases your tap will tend to let the PH climb.
i use tap end of flower as then my ph is often dropping hard and the right dose tap water stabilize it then.
just my 2 cent.
A local water reprot tell you a lot , if avaiable.
youre for sure more the guy then me and especially the guy who gave you the ratios is THE guy.
myself wont go over 1.7EC with that mix, more like 1.5 and watch runoff, if it stays within 0.2-0.3 more max they eat it.
Water is freakin complicated, differs a LOT.
You simply have to try, for me RO is more stable as i have tons of calcium carbonate in my tap, needs tons of ph-.
in most cases your tap will tend to let the PH climb.
i use tap end of flower as then my ph is often dropping hard and the right dose tap water stabilize it then.
just my 2 cent.
A local water reprot tell you a lot , if avaiable.
youre for sure more the guy then me and especially the guy who gave you the ratios is THE guy.
cobshopgrow
Well-Known Member
dont go mad there.
calcium nitrate is always caclium nitrate, yara is the biggest producer of it in the world.
i guess we all have the same in our bags, from the same mine.
your bag is just showing it different, like liters to gallons.
you have the right stuff for hydro, thats what the whole world uses.
a tiny bit amonia is needed, up to 10% is completly fine, above 20% can cause yield loss in tomatoes.
amonia is also used to steer n stabilize the PH.... but you have RO, soft water, avoid it.
your fertilizer itself is completly fine.
there is no way i know for lower amonia and high nitrate levels then uisng calcium nitrate, which you do.
maybe the only thing to buy or try, is epsom salt, if you feel to, there is a note in the datasheet of your fertilizer.
while it seems Ed didnt used it, so idk, many do, see the jacks 321 formula.to get the idea.
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
Great post Cobshop - lots of valuable infos here. I've attached a few pages of detailed info on S, maybe you can make something out of it, it's from a bachelor-grade schoolbook.i see, the first picture you posted is calcium nitrate, like OP uses (me also).
whats confusing is his bag shows CAO yours CA.
its due do different conventions in each countries.
you can convert CAO to CA back n forth, then you will have about the same.
Conversion calculator | Yara UK
A useful calculator to convert between various different units, particularly relevant for fertiliser and crop nutrition such as converting concentration...www.yara.co.uk
its dam confusing... european ferts show often oxides.
second you show is lime nitrogen, kalkstickstoff.
its mostly ammonia, slow release, for soil, acres, pretty much made to not dissolve directly.
never used it myself, as its not a good choice for hydro, it can cause yield loss, in soil its a dif. story.
Kalkstickstoff richtig anwenden
Kalkstickstoff ist ein mineralischer Dünger mit Langzeitwirkung. Die Anwendung im Garten ist allerdings nicht ohne Risiken.www.mein-schoener-garten.de
i think for the calcium sulfate they ment sulfate is a sec. nutrient and therefore can cause less havoc then nitrogen f.e.maybe.
i think sulfur isnt good in causing lockouts too as good as other elements.
No 2 arrow point each other like mg and ca f.e.
i know also for myself that plants can take quite some sulfur as i have 0.3EC pure sulfur in my tap.
one reason i take RO, but even seedlings dont die from this amount and every house n garden plant take it like a champ.
normally they give reliable science based infos there.
Dont think it makes your info to supplement in flower with sulfur less true.
Didnt they wrote somewhere its PH neutral more or less?
Similar to magnesium sulfate, which dont cause PH havoc to my knowledge.
They probably dont take stonemeals in to account as its not used in liquid hydro feeds and neutral to no media.
You are right, my books on plant nutrition tell me that S is the anion of choice to establish the Kation-Anion-Balance for the reason that plants do have a high tolerance for Sulphur. Up to 200mg/l - it's because the roots can easily reject it. Then there are some known plants which need a boatload of it - e.g. onions - they have this special type of starch combined with S.
For Cannabis I think 50mg/l should suffice, although it's sort of heavily dependant on how high Cl & Na is (S needs to be higher)
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JakStraw from Wichita
Active Member
Read my recipe carefully again, I add 1 lbs of Epson salt to the 15 gal drum with the Peters, so I’m already in on that trick or Ed was should I say
JakStraw from Wichita
Active Member
Nice literature now I just need to speak a different language lol
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
I think he was referring to my bag, the Calcinit with its 1% Ammonia should be perfectly fine, the ammonia can either be broken down by bacteria or directly absorbed by plants, too.
actually to feed plants a combination of Ammonia & Nitrate is going to give the best results, although it may vary widely between individual species.
Plant Nitrogen feeding is actually a whole topic in itself...
this ones for potatoes though:
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Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
tbh I speak uhm or say "write" more english than german these days lol
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
but yeah, because of the legalization of Cannabis in the US, there's a LOT more scientific evidence (mostly from studies) specifically on Cannabis these days emerging...
JakStraw from Wichita
Active Member
I’ll send ya my phone number and ya can translate it over the phone to me lol
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
You better call the Prof @ the Uni I'm still learning this lol... well this thread developed nicely... if you can get your water analysis we may be able to find out how much Epsom Salt to use... or how much to stretch that down... although plants can tolerate a wide range of variables... but it would make it a tad more easier for them... and there may be less salitinity accumulating at the roots... I mean, at that point of your growing skills its more like a tiny finetuning, not more
JakStraw from Wichita
Active Member
True and like I said all other varieties I’ve tried or even had other friends try on there stuff all have come out fine, had a few strands that we had to dilute it a bit but the recipe I have now has been “flawless” for years, I think it’s that fucking BD somthing has changed.
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
yes its genetic. there's something wrong with the nodes, because the leaves are ok. sometimes if plants show aberrations it may be due to stress, so certain genes cannot be expressed or activated, but a true genetic mutation will always show the aberration, and that, repeatably. And because the upper parts of a plant is basically just a copycat clone of a quite simple scheme you see this then happening at the whole plant. and about nearly all mutation result in a somewhat weaker plant.... that's why my interest immediately got sparked at the very first reply XD ^^
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
BTW the internodes, where they always that thin, as in, did you always had to support each cola with a stick & wire, even 5 years ago? it just comes out a bit too thin to my eyes, plus lacking the "ripples"...
JakStraw from Wichita
Active Member
Yeah for a first timer on here I was wondering how this would go but lots of knowledge on here and ppl that know there shit, hopefully anyone else reading this collects some info
JakStraw from Wichita
Active Member
Always been string bean like, that’s why I have 300 of those yard stakes in a box in the corner just for that reason
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
ok, so what I could gather from this Link I actually could use this Nitrate Lime in an outdoor scenario around the topsoil of young plants, to deliver N & Ca and essentially it would also kill or thwart off some snails and other pests.Kalkstickstoff richtig anwenden
Kalkstickstoff ist ein mineralischer Dünger mit Langzeitwirkung. Die Anwendung im Garten ist allerdings nicht ohne Risiken.www.mein-schoener-garten.de
and, for example, in a nettle-field, destroy these 2 weeks before planting . seems like a good product if used at the right place & time
JakStraw from Wichita
Active Member
If your going outdoor I use bonemeal and bloodmeal and osomocote
Kassiopeija
Well-Known Member
This stuff isn't much popular where I am, products may be hard to find or not even at all.... It had something to do with the BSE sickness some time ago I think...
JakStraw from Wichita
Active Member
That sux because blood and bone meal are the most organic shit ya can get pretty much, they sell that shit here at Walmart