New Light

oldbeancounter

Well-Known Member
Here's some screenshots of the app so far..
View attachment 4310399 View attachment 4310401
View attachment 4310396 View attachment 4310395
View attachment 4310408
Lights will be added as servers or access points. A router or existing network is not needed, but if there happened to be one present I could use it if I wanted too. If a network does not exist, the light will create its own network so that I can link lights up or have them seperate.
@ChiefRunningPhist
can laptop and hard LAN to lights(must be hard wire, no bluetooth or wireless , can be net based or circuit board based(my prefered )
visual watt usage etc
anything you see or no work like that?
not too hard to setup
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
@ChiefRunningPhist
can laptop and hard LAN to lights(must be hard wire, no bluetooth or wireless , can be net based or circuit board based(my prefered )
visual watt usage etc
anything you see or no work like that?
not too hard to setup
I think you're asking about LAN connection to the ESP32? There's no RJ45 jack so you can't connect via LAN, If that's what you're asking about then no, there is no LAN connection with an ESP32.

There is a microSD hard line interface, it's one method that's used to upload arduino code, other than that that though they communicate wirelessly in several possible ways.
 

oldbeancounter

Well-Known Member
I think you're asking about LAN connection to the ESP32? There's no RJ45 jack so you can't connect via LAN, If that's what you're asking about then no, there is no LAN connection with an ESP32.

There is a microSD hard line interface, it's one method that's used to upload arduino code, other than that that though they communicate wirelessly in several possible ways.
@ChiefRunningPhist
ok
I will go with this
https://www.cutter.com.au/product/storm-x-led-controller/
what do i need to buy wit it any idea, cords etc?
how does it hook to in grow light system system vers testing machine he is hooked up to which no grower does.
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
@ChiefRunningPhist
ok
I will go with this
https://www.cutter.com.au/product/storm-x-led-controller/
what do i need to buy wit it any idea, cords etc?
how does it hook to in grow light system system vers testing machine he is hooked up to which no grower does.
You'd have to talk with the seller on that one. Looks like it requires 1 big driver or PS (power supply) which powers a bank of small buck/boost modules which are dimmed and controlled with a central command POT + circuit board.

Your main PS will depend on your LDD bank size, which will depend on your electrical needs required per supplemental strip.
 

oldbeancounter

Well-Known Member
You'd have to talk with the seller on that one. Looks like it requires 1 big driver or PS (power supply) which powers a bank of small buck/boost modules which are dimmed and controlled with a central command POT + circuit board.

Your main PS will depend on your LDD bank size, which will depend on your electrical needs required per supplemental strip.
@ChiefRunningPhist
ok thanks
just waiting for quote on strips LED
wondered if you knew how much wattage of heat this strip below would be good up too for a piece 48" long
I do not know how to go from what they say it will be good for to watts as I understand them better and I think my mind is saying no more new math LOL
perhaps you can help me figure out how to do this formula on my own
https://www.heatsinkusa.com/1-000/
how is your light coming along?
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
@ChiefRunningPhist
ok thanks
just waiting for quote on strips LED
wondered if you knew how much wattage of heat this strip below would be good up too for a piece 48" long
I do not know how to go from what they say it will be good for to watts as I understand them better and I think my mind is saying no more new math LOL
perhaps you can help me figure out how to do this formula on my own
https://www.heatsinkusa.com/1-000/
how is your light coming along?
Nice. And I'm not sure. I'd guess you'd be good without fans for up to maybe ~50W(?), but air flow will effect the wattage capability quite a bit, and so will LED effeciency. I think I remember being able to drive my boards, without cooling fans, around 1.25W of LED per in2 of heatsink. That would make 48in2 capable of 60w of dissipation, so I think under 50W and you'd be good, but only a guess.

Light's coming along. :bigjoint:
 

oldbeancounter

Well-Known Member
Nice. And I'm not sure. I'd guess you'd be good without fans for up to maybe ~50W(?), but air flow will effect the wattage capability quite a bit, and so will LED effeciency. I think I remember being able to drive my boards, without cooling fans, around 1.25W of LED per in2 of heatsink. That would make 48in2 capable of 60w of dissipation, so I think under 50W and you'd be good, but only a guess.

Light's coming along. :bigjoint:
OK
thanks
that helps alot
I am at standstill till I decide who I am going with
anyone else worth looking at for strips LED you know of
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
OK
thanks
that helps alot
I am at standstill till I decide who I am going with
anyone else worth looking at for strips LED you know of
No sweat. I don't know much about strips or who makes the best ones. I've been focused more so on the chips used to make the LED strips/boards, but I think bridgelux makes some good strips, and I've heard "Vestra" mentioned quite a bit lately too. Perhaps give them a look over.
 

oldbeancounter

Well-Known Member
No sweat. I don't know much about strips or who makes the best ones. I've been focused more so on the chips used to make the LED strips/boards, but I think bridgelux makes some good strips, and I've heard "Vestra" mentioned quite a bit lately too. Perhaps give them a look over.
Na, looking for something much more efficient than that.
If pricing I am getting is not realist then I can wait for new strips samsung and the bridgelux both have colour options with ridiculous numbers. Be best to get this over with as there is always going to be something better the day a new chip gets to you it is dated.
Stuff doesn't stay current for years now.
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Well its been awhile since I've updated the light. I've flip flopped on several things but it's starting to get ironed out.

I was orginally designing a power distribution cct centered around an HBG-160P-60, but as I got deeper into it I decided to go a completely different route and design an integrated PS specific to the exact electrical demands of the individual channels. I thought I would be able to achieve better efficiency by designing for exact specs. This has been a lengthy process but am finally getting numbers where I want them. During this time I've gone back and forth about keeping the white CCT chips or tossing them. I think I've finally made a decision to keep some but I've decided to part ways with the Optisolis. :( The Opti's are a nice 1 chip solution, but just didn't fit well with a multi channel fixture imo. Also, the green mono chips are just toooo inefficient to use if only trying to create white light, imo. Imo, if trying to create white light, using a 3000K phosphored chip can supplement your green monos to help maintain efficiency as well as add some amber at a much better μmol/J than the best monos can (cyan, green, & amber are all dismal efficiency regardless the brand)

15 different chips will make up the fixture, though hoping it will be 16 if I can find a half decent 680nm chip (Alibaba were only 2% efficient!). Give me a shout if you've any 680nm chips for me to look at.

Each channel will be infinitely tuneable via local POT or Wi-Fi, but I'm also going to add some pre-tuned selections.

Attached are the pre-tuned SPD selections I'm probably going to go with. Each selection will be designed to be capable of outputting ~900PPFD, though if custom tuning is selected, at system it's calculating up to 1500PPFD+ :bigjoint:
 

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Moflow

Well-Known Member
Well its been awhile since I've updated the light. I've flip flopped on several things but it's starting to get ironed out.

I was orginally designing a power distribution cct centered around an HBG-160P-60, but as I got deeper into it I decided to go a completely different route and design an integrated PS specific to the exact electrical demands of the individual channels. I thought I would be able to achieve better efficiency by designing for exact specs. This has been a lengthy process but am finally getting numbers where I want them. During this time I've gone back and forth about keeping the white CCT chips or tossing them. I think I've finally made a decision to keep some but I've decided to part ways with the Optisolis. :( The Opti's are a nice 1 chip solution, but just didn't fit well with a multi channel fixture imo. Also, the green mono chips are just toooo inefficient to use if only trying to create white light, imo. Imo, if trying to create white light, using a 3000K phosphored chip can supplement your green monos to help maintain efficiency as well as add some amber at a much better μmol/J than the best monos can (cyan, green, & amber are all dismal efficiency regardless the brand)

15 different chips will make up the fixture, though hoping it will be 16 if I can find a half decent 680nm chip (Alibaba were only 2% efficient!). Give me a shout if you've any 680nm chips for me to look at.

Each channel will be infinitely tuneable via local POT or Wi-Fi, but I'm also going to add some pre-tuned selections.

Attached are the pre-tuned SPD selections I'm probably going to go with. Each selection will be designed to be capable of outputting ~900PPFD, though if custom tuning is selected, at system it's calculating up to 1500PPFD+ :bigjoint:
Wats up Chief?
You are sayn its infinitely tunable.
Can the fixture be tuned to the sunlights spectrum?
On the second spd file, Solar SPD File, is the Green line the actual spectrum of the light.... or just Sunlight? That's the spectrum I like most .... lol
I'm impressed with what the sunlight produced in vegging some clones outdoors this season compared with indoor vegging. They look totally different, the outdoor ones were really strong looking more robust plants.
Unfortunately, where I am, the Sun is only useful from May to August so I cannot flower outdoors.
 

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
Wats up Chief?
You are sayn its infinitely tunable.
Can the fixture be tuned to the sunlights spectrum?
On the second spd file, Solar SPD File, is the Green line the actual spectrum of the light.... or just Sunlight? That's the spectrum I like most .... lol
I'm impressed with what the sunlight produced in vegging some clones outdoors this season compared with indoor vegging. They look totally different, the outdoor ones were really strong looking more robust plants.
Unfortunately, where I am, the Sun is only useful from May to August so I cannot flower outdoors.
What indoor light source are you comparing to in veg?
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
Wats up Chief?
You are sayn its infinitely tunable.
Can the fixture be tuned to the sunlights spectrum?
On the second spd file, Solar SPD File, is the Green line the actual spectrum of the light.... or just Sunlight? That's the spectrum I like most .... lol
I'm impressed with what the sunlight produced in vegging some clones outdoors this season compared with indoor vegging. They look totally different, the outdoor ones were really strong looking more robust plants.
Unfortunately, where I am, the Sun is only useful from May to August so I cannot flower outdoors.
Haha actually the light is the blue "Energy" line. Not as impressive as the green "Sunlight" line lol, but I think if I can find a 680nm and a 435nm, that I could recreate the green line even better, or at least more accurately. Infinitely tuneable within a range. I was toying around with some sort of 5 position brightness selector switch, but more increments was better I thought so going with the smoother type of dimming.

You can see 680nm & 435nm are the big gaps still to fill but I haven't found a decent chip in any of the WVs. The whole point of using monos to create white light would be negated by using low efficiency chips, so I'm really at a crossroads. I could fill in the gaps w/ the Baba chips but the system μmol/J drops like a rock when your 680nm chips are only 2% efficient lol. My goal was 3.0+ CRI99 light (including UVB), I was trying to "put the fork" in HID (brand new HID is ~2.0μmol/J). UVB are horrible efficiency (1.5%) so if they are "on" they pull the μmol/J down decently and a 3.0+ CRI99 becomes pretty lofty. μmol/J drops likewise with fluoro, but CMH needs very little UV if any at all. It's going to hurt a bit including UV with my final efficiency numbers, but it's all part of the emission.

(System calcs of Presets including UV)...
Efficiency (70%+) ~3.30μmol/J
Action (60%+) ~2.76μmol/J
Sunlight (55%+) ~2.45μmol/J
 
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ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
@Moflow @OneHitDone
I'm a believer that the seedlings get full blast light including UV from day 1, just like in nature (maybe a bit less, like 15%, to mimic other more mature plants nearby, but full UV, not sure I'm a believer in "blue SPD" veg being better than "full SPD" veg either).


PPFD is μmol/m2.

When the plant is small it absorbs less of these photons in a m2. When the plant is big it absorbs more of the photons in the m2.

When you start out with low light, the plants grow to accept more photons, but when you move the goal posts (ie increase intensity) the plants get confused and are hit with a bit of a double whammy (they grew,.. and the sun got brighter!). I think if you started out high intensity that the plant will self regulate its growth per the intensity (regulate its size) and you'd only need to mess with SPD to achieve desired morpgology? Mimic the sun and nature, but remove the bad weather, bugs, disease, ect.. Start with the solar, and tweak it from there...
 

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
@Moflow @OneHitDone
I'm a believer that the seedlings get full blast light including UV from day 1, just like in nature (maybe a bit less, like 15%, to mimic other more mature plants nearby, but full UV, not sure I'm a believer in "blue SPD" veg being better than "full SPD" veg either).


PPFD is μmol/m2.

When the plant is small it absorbs less of these photons in a m2. When the plant is big it absorbs more of the photons in the m2.

When you start out with low light, the plants grow to accept more photons, but when you move the goal posts (ie increase intensity) the plants get confused and are hit with a bit of a double whammy (they grew,.. and the sun got brighter!). I think if you started out high intensity that the plant will self regulate its growth per the intensity (regulate its size) and you'd only need to mess with SPD to achieve desired morpgology? Mimic the sun and nature, but remove the bad weather, bugs, disease, ect.. Start with the solar, and tweak it from there...
Damn bro, what the hell do you think your doing all making sense and shit! :clap::peace:
 

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
Lol thanks, I haven't been keeping up, have you found an LED that grows a decent head of lettuce yet? Curious the difference in SPD..
I would say I've found a couple that grow "Decent" heads of lettuce but I would not make the stretch to call them "Sun like". Which is what I am after and it appears you have the eye for as well..

If you follow my lettuce thread I am taking a step back and bringing in some old trusted tech (100W MH with Philips CMH lamp) against an HLG65 :hump:
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
I would say I've found a couple that grow "Decent" heads of lettuce but I would not make the stretch to call them "Sun like". Which is what I am after and it appears you have the eye for as well..

If you follow my lettuce thread I am taking a step back and bringing in some old trusted tech (100W MH with Philips CMH lamp) against an HLG65 :hump:
Nice I haven't checked it out in awhile but I knew you were the lettuce guy so I figured I'd ask. I'm looking to branch out (lol yes pun intended) into berries as well. Strawberries, blueberries, and pineberries. I figure they'll want a bit of a different SPD from MJ, but idk..
 
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