UV Suppliment Lighting

oldbeancounter

oldbeancounter

Well-Known Member
ANC said:
with your LEDs and ambient 0f 28 to 30C seems to be the spot.
As long as the nighttime temps don't fall too far, you should have normal stretch in flower.
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ok
I was way to cool last time but had no humidifier and now I do so not an issue.
So if too cools at night plants will rush growing as plant feels it is fall is that it?
Root zone temps in soil less as my floor gets cold I have to watch in winter?
 
Moflow

Moflow

Well-Known Member
oldbeancounter said:
@Moflow
Are these air temps or top of the leaf temps ?
I would like some red as well, separate, on a separate channel to add as needed depending on what I am growing within a strip light.
I will pick up a lazer temp light and start trying it that way myself of pointing at top of canopy foe leaf temps see how it goes.
Once everything is setup up wont matter I will know then, just for spacing, watts, heights etc .
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That's room temp.
I must get out the ir gun and check the leaf temps.
 
.RootDown

.RootDown

Well-Known Member
oldbeancounter said:
I am interested in which reds you would suggest looking at as I am another one HLG won't sell those strips to.
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I'm looking to focus around deep red (660nm) with some red (630) and a couple of far reds (730). But if HLG's redesign of the QB11 was just 660 like the original I'd probably just buy it and be done.

From what I've seen the biggest difference between our white light LEDs and halides is the broader red spectrum, and I'm trying to mimic it. I'm also curious about adding infrared to bring leaf surface temperature up, but I haven't dug into that much.
 
Axion42

Axion42

Well-Known Member
oldbeancounter said:
@Axion42
Wondered if you had made your light yet and if so the spacing you tried and the specific red diode you picked and why that rapid led sells.
I am considering them but just in early part of looking into it but I do have the heat sinks already 48 inch long.one inch wide 4 pieces just wondering how many red/far red to use? it is for 8 by 4 area new light build. Have all other spectrum's just need enhanced red-far red.
Thanks
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Just received my heat sinks yesterday so I'll be building the lights this week some time. I'll have 2 rails each about 23 inches long. Each rail will have 6 deep red (660nm) and 3 red (630nm), 12 deep reds and 6 reds total for my 4x4. I have 2 HLG qb 3s that I use for the far red (730nm). From what I've been told be sure to have twice as much deep red (660) than far red (730) to avoid stretching the plant - shade avoidance syndrome.
 
Warpedpassage

Warpedpassage

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Agromax and Solacure UV bulbs are much stronger, reach around twice as far and are far more dangerous because the safe zone is probably 1,5-2m away from the bulbs.
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When u say 1.5-2 m away for safe zone, are u speaking to a safe zone for human exposure? I actually own a pair of solacure fixture, and want to look into using it for vitamin d production for myself during the winters.
 
SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Warpedpassage said:
When u say 1.5-2 m away for safe zone, are u speaking to a safe zone for human exposure? I actually own a pair of solacure fixture, and want to look into using it for vitamin d production for myself during the winters.
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Seek the professional advice of a physician. Random is a smart guy but dont make him answer this question. There are too many variables just as within the grow, but this is too direct and not appropriate for this forum.

Growers must also consider their eyebals are spheres and loojing at the light only translates to where focused damage may be observed by the human in question. The energy if it passes through you will impart energy on your cell tissue. The questions to degre of damage are not quantifyable here.

Risk management is important, we must also not forget the visible light when it comes to macular degeneration. For most I belive this to be a more significant risk factor in that it is ignored by most growers.
 
Warpedpassage

Warpedpassage

Well-Known Member
SSGrower said:
Seek the professional advice of a physician. Random is a smart guy but dont make him answer this question. There are too many variables just as within the grow, but this is too direct and not appropriate for this forum.

Growers must also consider their eyebals are spheres and loojing at the light only translates to where focused damage may be observed by the human in question. The energy if it passes through you will impart energy on your cell tissue. The questions to degre of damage are not quantifyable here.

Risk management is important, we must also not forget the visible light when it comes to macular degeneration. For most I belive this to be a more significant risk factor in that it is ignored by most growers.
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Lol, no doubt. I just actually just wanted to clarify that he meant 1.5-2m for humans and not plants. That would be too far for plants, unless he meant 1.5-2ft.
 
Chunky Stool

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
oldbeancounter said:
@Chunky Stool
What sources for sulfur do you suggest and how much and when to apply?
I do know sulfur helps just not how to use it properly.
Thanks
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Late in flower when I'm backing off the nutes, I alternate epsom and K2SO4 between feedings.
When to add extra sulfur depends on your medium and what you are already feeding them. Many nutrients already have a sufficient amount.

I also grow "semi-organic" outdoors and like to top dress with langbeinite about halfway through flower.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Warpedpassage said:
When u say 1.5-2 m away for safe zone, are u speaking to a safe zone for human exposure? I actually own a pair of solacure fixture, and want to look into using it for vitamin d production for myself during the winters.
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Not a good idea, brother! Better use solarium or as least 5% reptile bulbs. Optimal range for human vitamin D production is around 305nm these Solacure bulbs go down to 280nm but below 295nm UVB light gets much more hazardous.
Reptile or solarium bulbs have almost no hazardous UVB. That btw the reason why you need more time to see the same effect. 285nm has a 10x higher effect like 300nm. So it's maybe 10x more damaging for the human skin. Better invest in a small solarium you can combine with a few high CRI daylight bulbs. Much more safe and it helps for sure with the winter depression.
Screenshot_20190521-181938.png

I hope the new T5 Solacure bulbs with reptile bulbs like specs but spectrum down to 285nm become available soon. I like that they have almost the same intenity and percentage of UVB/A and also some visible light.
Not too strong for a short distance(12-16") but UVB down to 285nm to exactly hit the UVR8 receptor.
Seems a win-win
 
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Warpedpassage

Warpedpassage

Well-Known Member
I was thinking of exposing just the insides of my arms from a few feet away, for 30 seconds. But honestly even that makes me uncomfortable with the flower power solacure, it actually goes a bit below 280! Thats wild! In retrospect i would have preferred the “super b” paired with Hps.

That t5 sounds pefect for matching with leds. I dont see any info on the site, any ideas when to expect them?weeks, maybe a few months?
 
Chunky Stool

Chunky Stool

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
Yeah, upgrade ASAP. Be certain you get real square wave ballasts when you do, as that's where the whole whitening improvement comes from. CMH lamps last longer and the spectrum is better. Stuck with 315W units, just get as many as you need for your canopy, as multiple smaller light sources is much better for even, complete coverage.

The incremental cost from there to LED is shrinking every day though, so there's that.
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Tonight I'm switching from FrankenLight to LED -- and my incremental cost is zero. :hump:
My buddy switched to full spectrum UFO-lookin' lights (black dog?) and give me one of his old blurple units.
RenderedImage.JPG
The label says 300 X 3 watt, so in theory it could pull 900 watts.

Hmm... I've got a smart plug and could actually check. :dunce:
 
Moflow

Moflow

Well-Known Member
Chunky Stool said:
Tonight I'm switching from FrankenLight to LED -- and my incremental cost is zero. :hump:
My buddy switched to full spectrum UFO-lookin' lights (black dog?) and give me one of his old blurple units.
View attachment 4337170
The label says 300 X 3 watt, so in theory it could pull 900 watts.

Hmm... I've got a smart plug and could actually check. :dunce:
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I'd love to see 900 watts going through that light, you'd need an 18 ft ceiling! Lol
Strip it down to the bare board and run at 60 watts for side lighting :bigjoint:
20190521_193954.jpg
About 500/600 umols for side light on a platinum p450 150 epiled leds at 30 watts.
Around 8" away. Covers around 18" x 18"
 
Wastei

Wastei

Well-Known Member
I used to use 10.0 UV-B reptile bulbs and run them for 45 min mid cycle 12/12. You only want to trigger response in the plant, not stress it more than necessary.

Nowadays I only supplement with 6400K fluorescent instead with 50/50 MH/HPS . You will get a tons UV-B from that. UV-B reptile light are not worth the cost and hassle in the long run.
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
.RootDown said:
Been working on a fixture for my next grow, to add T5 UV and some blue, red, and far red (Emerson Effect).

I have 2XQuantum288s on a Slate 2, got another Slate 2 and cut in in half to mount on either side at a slight angle. I designed the brackets to use the far red strips on either end, also angled in slightly. My space is a 2X2.5 tent.

The Slate 2 secures to the top of this-
View attachment 4336088



View attachment 4336094


View attachment 4336095

I've still got a ways to go. Nothing is wired up of course, and I don't have QB11 red strips. They are no longer available and am waiting for a redesign. I may end up going cutter or starboards.
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I like seeing the process. Looks like it will be pretty uniform or symmetrical, can't wait to see it finished, good work! :bigjoint:
 
mauricem00

mauricem00

Well-Known Member
Wastei said:
I used to use 10.0 UV-B reptile bulbs and run them for 45 min mid cycle 12/12. You only want to trigger response in the plant, not stress it more than necessary.

Nowadays I only supplement with 6400K fluorescent instead with 50/50 MH/HPS . You will get a tons UV-B from that. UV-B reptile light are not worth the cost and hassle in the long run.
Click to expand...
years ago growers learned that plants grown with 6400k T5s produced better flavor and potency. I grow with T5s and add a uva plus bulb along with 2 P@A bulbs for deep red and can keep my lights 6 inches from my plant without burning them using the UVA plus bulb for the full 12 hour daylight cycle. CMH bulbs also produce plenty of UV light but even just a 6400k T5 will produce a noticeable improvement in taste and potency
 
ChiefRunningPhist

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
mauricem00 said:
years ago growers learned that plants grown with 6400k T5s produced better flavor and potency. I grow with T5s and add a uva plus bulb along with 2 P@A bulbs for deep red and can keep my lights 6 inches from my plant without burning them using the UVA plus bulb for the full 12 hour daylight cycle. CMH bulbs also produce plenty of UV light but even just a 6400k T5 will produce a noticeable improvement in taste and potency
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I've also heard old fluoro gets cracks in the phosphor lining (CFL especially) and allows a decent chunk of UV through. I used to use the older ones on purpose for that reason although I don't know if it helped lol
 
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