ChilLED grow light

PSUAGRO.

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
I don't understand the hostility, Cobby and Stephen are correct about the chilled boards== They are a good option , just not Disney magic:)

Personally I find it odd to publish a bare board pulse rating, much like posting a wet weight....it's not reality. They have access to a sphere, i'm sure we'll get "accurate #s in the future.



edit.............swype sucks or I suck, whichever came first
 
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DrBlaze

DrBlaze

Well-Known Member
tstick said:
Not sure if this matters to anyone here or not, but Growmau5 is now working at ChilLED. Apparently, he and Vitaly are going to be working on some new, futuristic shit together! :)
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Yeah that came as quite a surprise to me, it being the whole reason behind his move to Washington. Well he did say he was pretty impressed with the quality and yield of the chilled fixture he ran in the side-by-side with his canopy 10.
 
Stephenj37826

Stephenj37826

Well-Known Member
Growmau5 has to make a living too. He may as well get paid for what he loves to do. As I said earlier not a thing wrong with the chilled stuff. Really nice and has lots of features. Just wanted everyone on the same page when it comes to testing methods. I'd rather see people like chilled selling fixtures than some marketing company fooling people with epi whatever bull****.
 
CobKits

CobKits

Well-Known Member
VegasWinner said:
Yes he did. numerous times in threads and in DM s well.
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please stop lying about me. cant even believe were still dealing with this

i really dont want to post the contents of your private messages to me publicly but will do so if your blatant misrepresentation doesnt stop.

this is getting ridiculous, there are NO personal attacks coming from my side, either on the forum threads or in private messages. I want none of it and didnt even bother to respond to your melty out-of-the-blue diatribe in the messages about how you are quitting the board because of me. I think since your self-imposed hiatus from the forum ive quoted maybe *one* of your posts, and that was simply to correct glaringly incorrect information (that PCBs are more efficient and "produce less heat" than cobs - when the fact is you can get the exact same performance out of cobs at low current.) the second part of that was me stating my opinion (and carefully noting it as such) that the light from cobs is more controllable/directable than PCBs - which is kind of a fact because out of all the PCBs out there only HLG put the thought into accommodating lenses to match their diode layout. all but the largest cobs have commonly available lenses and reflectors and most PCBs do not
 
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CobKits

CobKits

Well-Known Member
BobCajun said:
I solved the whole competition problem, by walking into Home Depot and buying Osram LEDs with builtin driver at WAY lower cost than ANY of these manufacturers/dealers can offer. Last I heard, Osram makes high quality LEDs, as good as any out there. See the thing is that with the COB and Quantum type kits the drivers cost about as much or more than the LEDs. Why? Because they use a lot of circuitry to clean up the current so it makes appealing lighting for humans, low flicker, high efficiency and so on. Well, I'm not lighting a room for humans, I'm lighting chambers for plants, which really don't care about how smooth the light is, and optimum efficiency is only a factor when you have a warehouse full of lights. For me, completely irrelevant.
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those are great. drivers are about 85% and the diodes are run on the harder side but they are great options for spot lighting
 
Black Thumb

Black Thumb

Well-Known Member
VegasWinner said:
Yeah. I do it old school. no PAR meters, I just watch the girlz, plus Vitally did a video with GM and gave out the data 2.7umols/w That is all I needed to know as well as higher efficiency numbers than anything I have seen out there to date. :O But you can get a chilkled board and measure it along with some Samsung strips both Constant Voltage and Current. I think you may know the outcomes already. you can do the measuring, I just do what I do best, grow.
2 x 4 = 8SF X .476 = 3.8 boards I am going with 3 boards vs 4 boards.
namaste
Vitally numbers below

How Many Boards Do I Need For My Area?
The number of boards you need will depend on what photon flux (light intensity) you are looking to achieve per given area.

If you are not supplementing with CO2 and are growing a fruiting/flowering crop, then stay around 900-1,000 micromoles.
If you are supplementing with CO2 and are growing a fruiting/flowering crop, then you can go up to 1,200-1,400 micromoles.
Note: Adjust your room air temperature higher under LED lighting, about 85 degrees fahrenheit and 90 degrees under high light/CO2 conditions.

EXAMPLE: Your area is 4ft by 4ft and you want 1,000 micromoles PPFD, 4ft x 4ft = 16 square feet.
175W PCBs: 16 square feet x 0.238 PCBs per square foot = 3.808 PCBs, round to nearest whole number = 4 175w PCBs needed to get 1,000 micromoles PPFD average in 4 x 4ft (16sq ft) area.
90W PCBs: 16 square feet x 0.476 PCBs per square foot = 7.616 PCBs, round to nearest whole number = 8 90w PCBs needed to get 1,000 micromoles PPFD average in 4 x 4ft (16sq ft) area.

175W LED PCB (At 1050mA drive current) – System Level
Factored total losses of 18.5% (about 2.2um/j @ wall, to be conservative)

Your Target PPFD 175w PCBs Per Square Foot 175w PCBs Square Meter
1,400 0.333 3.58
1,200 0.285 3.07
1,000 0.238 2.56
800 0.190 2.05
600 0.143 1.53
400 0.095 1.02
200 0.048 0.51
90W LED PCB (At 1050mA drive current) – System Level
Factored total losses of 18.5% (about 2.2um/j @ wall, to be conservative)

Your Target PPFD 90w PCBs Per Square Foot 90w PCBs Square Meter
1,400 0.667 7.18
1,200 0.572 6.15
1,000 0.476 5.13
800 0.381 4.10
600 0.286 3.08
400 0.191 2.05
200 0.095 1.03
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FUCK!!! by using your measurement it would cost almost $6k to light a 6x6 tent.. I Had dreams, You crushed them! Back to corn on the COB.
 
coreywebster

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
tstick said:
Not sure if this matters to anyone here or not, but Growmau5 is now working at ChilLED. Apparently, he and Vitaly are going to be working on some new, futuristic shit together! :)
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Lucky bastard! Anyone who can incorporate what they love doing with what they do for a living is a lucky mother fucker. I only wish more folks could do that. There would be more happy people in the world.
 
BobCajun

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
CobKits said:
those are great. drivers are about 85% and the diodes are run on the harder side but they are great options for spot lighting
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Oh is that what they are, 85%? Not bad actually. I know they have a power factor of 0.5, but PF is not the same as efficiency. Just that a lower PF means more wasted energy for the power company, not the consumer.

But the LED bulbs really are good for growing, since they have the LEDs pointed straight down. Just cut the diffusers off to 1/2" with a serrated knife and you're good. It's a little tricky but easier if you score it first with the knife all around where you want to cut it. If you want the diffusers back on you can actually just scotch tape them together again. Doesn't even get hot enough to hurt the tape.

Only downside is that the heat sink is right there on the bulb, so unless mounted through a hole so only the LED part is inside the chamber, there's considerable heat in there. But if you make a short air chamber above the bulb holes you can ventilate it with a fan, which is exactly what I did. If you make 2" holes with a hole saw drill it's the perfect size. Well actually there's still a little bit of heat sink below the hole so I guess more like 2.5". All I had on hand was the 2".
 
BobCajun

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
CobKits said:
the one i measured was. i gotta assume for the compromises they have to make with that tiny circuitboard inside the light base that all mfrs are going to be in the same class more or less.

theres a thread about those

https://www.rollitup.org/t/got-my-ge-brightstiks.896869/
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I did read that thread before actually. Those ones are no good though, get way too hot, saw a video about them on YT. The only good ones are the Osram/Sylvania ones. They came in first in the reviews comparing brands. Anyone can search it out themselves. They're cheap because they're non dimmable. The dimmable kind are way overpriced.
 
CobKits

CobKits

Well-Known Member
ive used and tested osram/sylvania I havent put them in the sphere but they are actually just about all the same as any other of the A19 bulbs in efficacy and heat generation.

i certainly havent seen any indication that they are heads above any other out there

these mfrs have a pretty low bar (100-110 lm/W) to hurdle with their designs to meet energy star standards and none of them need to use top bin diodes or go super low current to do it

my favorite bulb ive found so far are the walmart great value brand because they have the most substantial heatsinks

every bulb i mention and have used tested is non/dimmable btw

anyway im done with discussion here if youd like to pick it up, take it to the brightstik thread no need to hijack chillled thread
 
SoOLED

SoOLED

Well-Known Member
ive never even heard of chilledLED.

I'm from WA not much LED stuff up there. people like : connor McCarthy and Lymn Jackson are big LED guys up there.

WA has some of the cheapest electricity, so HPS is cheaper to run there, then LED's in SoCal.

the climate also suits HPS lighting.


anyone know what he is doing, are his future design ideas going to be filtered though chilled? I hope not because he has taught a lot of people, myself included about the hobby and the use of LED's.
 
V

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
SoOLED said:
ive never even heard of chilledLED.

I'm from WA not much LED stuff up there. people like : connor McCarthy and Lymn Jackson are big LED guys up there.

WA has some of the cheapest electricity, so HPS is cheaper to run there, then LED's in SoCal.

the climate also suits HPS lighting.


anyone know what he is doing, are his future design ideas going to be filtered though chilled? I hope not because he has taught a lot of people, myself included about the hobby and the use of LED's.
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He is in WA. chilledgrowlights.com check them out. you can go by and visit him Vitrally is a nice guy. I love his work
 
V

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
Black Thumb said:
FUCK!!! by using your measurement it would cost almost $6k to light a 6x6 tent.. I Had dreams, You crushed them! Back to corn on the COB.
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6x6 = 36 SF 36 0.238 PCBs per square foot = 8.5 bgoards for a ppfd say 9 boards
you would need
1 - 1200w commercial fixture - https://chilledgrowlights.com/our-products-services/commercial-led-grow-lights/gen-2-led-grow-light-1200-watts ($2700)
2 - 400w commerciala fixtures - https://chilledgrowlights.com/our-products-services/commercial-led-grow-lights/gen-2-led-grow-light-400-watts-double-strip ($2000)
I get around $5k for 2000w of some of the best leds in the market today. Not bad.

9 - 4xcxb3590 - HLG-185-C1400B - $4k basic easy $5k.
I would take two built fixtures for the price of building 9 fixtures of equal power.
 
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