ChilLED grow light

Airwalker16 said:

I noticed the boards went up in price a lot. so I'm going to use wavy boards instead. layout as a Plus sin using 4,:with nothing in the center, and 4 veros in the corners all @75w for a 600w build.

Click to expand...

CobKits said:

well, again, thats not a metric. not any more than your conclusion that "cobs perform better at 700 mA than 1400 mA" based on uncontrolled anecdotal tests



i did finally get my chips and will be testing.

It is a completely different animal though, its not really apples to apples. Vitale's PAR numbers are somewhat inflated relative to other designs for a few reasons:
-spectrum uses blue monos and has more blue spectrum than QBs or COBs
-Vitale's PAR tests integrate 350-750 nm as opposed to the usual 400-700 industry standard. Im not saying plants dont absorb energy in those wavelengths but taking 380 nm energy and weighting its PAR energy equally with higher wavelengths will bias PAR readings higher than other people's tests. While UV *might* be useful for terp development its probably not equivalent to say that umols measured at 380 are as useful to the plant as even 500-600 nm wavelengths provided in abundance by white phosphor LEDs


i expect the white channels to test similar to QBs and cobs. based on # of chips, for the price i think COBs will have an advantage in efficiency/$. on a white-only basis the (more expensive) 90W chilled LED has less diodes than a QB and they are spaced a lot closer together. this combined with the small footprint of the chilleds i expect the samsungs on these boards to not do as well as on the QBs. the 175W board is the same small footprint and has the diodes even closer together so that will dent its efficiency a bit.

They are a great design and the spectrum looks solid. its very premature to say whether one design is heads above another, we simply dont have that data, and with spectras being tweaked, umol/J isnt the be all end all, otherwise wed all be growing with blue monos or 6500k cobs

Click to expand...

CobKits said:

well, again, thats not a metric. not any more than your conclusion that "cobs perform better at 700 mA than 1400 mA" based on uncontrolled anecdotal tests



i did finally get my chips and will be testing.

It is a completely different animal though, its not really apples to apples. Vitale's PAR numbers are somewhat inflated relative to other designs for a few reasons:
-spectrum uses blue monos and has more blue spectrum than QBs or COBs
-Vitale's PAR tests integrate 350-750 nm as opposed to the usual 400-700 industry standard. Im not saying plants dont absorb energy in those wavelengths but taking 380 nm energy and weighting its PAR energy equally with higher wavelengths will bias PAR readings higher than other people's tests. While UV *might* be useful for terp development its probably not equivalent to say that umols measured at 380 are as useful to the plant as even 500-600 nm wavelengths provided in abundance by white phosphor LEDs


i expect the white channels to test similar to QBs and cobs. based on # of chips, for the price i think COBs will have an advantage in efficiency/$. on a white-only basis the (more expensive) 90W chilled LED has less diodes than a QB and they are spaced a lot closer together. this combined with the small footprint of the chilleds i expect the samsungs on these boards to not do as well as on the QBs. the 175W board is the same small footprint and has the diodes even closer together so that will dent its efficiency a bit.

They are a great design and the spectrum looks solid. its very premature to say whether one design is heads above another, we simply dont have that data, and with spectras being tweaked, umol/J isnt the be all end all, otherwise wed all be growing with blue monos or 6500k cobs

Click to expand...

lukio said:

Regret not grabbing some of these leds, I ended up with 1500w of quantum board. Interested to see how these do

Click to expand...

VegasWinner said:

I am going to tell you for the last time leave me alone

Click to expand...

VegasWinner said:

Vitally has good science behind his work. solid and quality workmanship,

Click to expand...

VegasWinner said:

Got mine I just bought the 90w boards and made my own fixture assembly. I wanted side by side instead of end to end even coverage for my situation 2x4

Click to expand...

VegasWinner said:

Yeah. I do it old school. no PAR meters, I just watch the girlz, plus Vitally did a video with GM and gave out the data 2.7umols/w That is all I needed to know as well as higher efficiency numbers than anything I have seen out there to date. :O But you can get a chilkled board and measure it along with some Samsung strips both Constant Voltage and Current. I think you may know the outcomes already. you can do the measuring, I just do what I do best, grow.
2 x 4 = 8SF X .476 = 3.8 boards I am going with 3 boards vs 4 boards.
namaste
Vitally numbers below

How Many Boards Do I Need For My Area?
The number of boards you need will depend on what photon flux (light intensity) you are looking to achieve per given area.

If you are not supplementing with CO2 and are growing a fruiting/flowering crop, then stay around 900-1,000 micromoles.
If you are supplementing with CO2 and are growing a fruiting/flowering crop, then you can go up to 1,200-1,400 micromoles.
Note: Adjust your room air temperature higher under LED lighting, about 85 degrees fahrenheit and 90 degrees under high light/CO2 conditions.

EXAMPLE: Your area is 4ft by 4ft and you want 1,000 micromoles PPFD, 4ft x 4ft = 16 square feet.
175W PCBs: 16 square feet x 0.238 PCBs per square foot = 3.808 PCBs, round to nearest whole number = 4 175w PCBs needed to get 1,000 micromoles PPFD average in 4 x 4ft (16sq ft) area.
90W PCBs: 16 square feet x 0.476 PCBs per square foot = 7.616 PCBs, round to nearest whole number = 8 90w PCBs needed to get 1,000 micromoles PPFD average in 4 x 4ft (16sq ft) area.

175W LED PCB (At 1050mA drive current) – System Level
Factored total losses of 18.5% (about 2.2um/j @ wall, to be conservative)

Your Target PPFD 175w PCBs Per Square Foot 175w PCBs Square Meter
1,400 0.333 3.58
1,200 0.285 3.07
1,000 0.238 2.56
800 0.190 2.05
600 0.143 1.53
400 0.095 1.02
200 0.048 0.51
90W LED PCB (At 1050mA drive current) – System Level
Factored total losses of 18.5% (about 2.2um/j @ wall, to be conservative)

Your Target PPFD 90w PCBs Per Square Foot 90w PCBs Square Meter
1,400 0.667 7.18
1,200 0.572 6.15
1,000 0.476 5.13
800 0.381 4.10
600 0.286 3.08
400 0.191 2.05
200 0.095 1.03

Click to expand...

VegasWinner said:

you are no expert and Vitaly used an independent lab for his testing and paid for it. I have been following Vitally for a couple years now. You? your lab certified and qualified or just full of cob shite and a man with a meter uneducated opinions are like water plentiful but not nourishing on it's own. facts stand out as facts not opinions. Write Vitally and tell him his numbers are inflated, because I am getting those results daily. I am a USER not a tester I see the difference you have not seen it so you belittle what you do not know. Chilled Gen2 grow lights are fire, no meter needs to tell me that. LOL

Click to expand...

Stephenj37826 said:

I'm definitely not here to fight but there is one glaring discrepancy in the 2.7 umol/j number of the chilled boards....... It's not at Temperature..... It's a cold flash measurement. To do a proper sphere test you must include your cooling method and driver loss. Our sphere data is with driver loss and the unit is ran to stabilization(Left running in a non air movement environment until the temps of the heatsink stop rising). In order to get the real numbers a test must be performed this way. TEMPERATURE DROOP MAKES A BIG DIFFERENCE AS DOES DRIVER LOSS.

PS I'M NOT KNOCKING THE CHILLED BOARDS I'M THE LEAST BTW.

Click to expand...

DrBlaze said:

say what you want, Cobkits may have questioned something you said but he never made any personal attacks against you like you seem to enjoy doing. I suggest you take a long look in the mirror my friend, if you're looking for the person who's trying to start fights. Time and again I've seen you throw a hissy fit if someone questions something you say... I have a very hard time believing you're as old as you say you are, you often come off like a teenager unable to control their emotions.

I like a lot of what you talk about, but there certainly are some assertions you make that deserve to be questioned. And no one is above that on this site...not even you.

Click to expand...

DrBlaze said:

say what you want, Cobkits may have questioned something you said but he never made any personal attacks against you like you seem to enjoy doing. I suggest you take a long look in the mirror my friend, if you're looking for the person who's trying to start fights. Time and again I've seen you throw a hissy fit if someone questions something you say... I have a very hard time believing you're as old as you say you are, you often come off like a teenager unable to control their emotions.

I like a lot of what you talk about, but there certainly are some assertions you make that deserve to be questioned. And no one is above that on this site...not even you.

Click to expand...

Stephenj37826 said:

I'm definitely not here to fight but there is one glaring discrepancy in the 2.7 umol/j number of the chilled boards....... It's not at Temperature..... It's a cold flash measurement. To do a proper sphere test you must include your cooling method and driver loss. Our sphere data is with driver loss and the unit is ran to stabilization(Left running in a non air movement environment until the temps of the heatsink stop rising). In order to get the real numbers a test must be performed this way. TEMPERATURE DROOP MAKES A BIG DIFFERENCE AS DOES DRIVER LOSS.

PS I'M NOT KNOCKING THE CHILLED BOARDS I'M THE LEAST BTW.

Click to expand...

CGBOY said:

I have also just recieved my order and am building my fixture.
Did you mount the drivers outside of your tent? How far away did you move them?
Did you incorporate and dimmers,white light only switches or overloads ?

Click to expand...

BobCajun said:

I solved the whole competition problem, by walking into Home Depot and buying Osram LEDs with builtin driver at WAY lower cost than ANY of these manufacturers/dealers can offer. Last I heard, Osram makes high quality LEDs, as good as any out there. See the thing is that with the COB and Quantum type kits the drivers cost about as much or more than the LEDs. Why? Because they use a lot of circuitry to clean up the current so it makes appealing lighting for humans, low flicker, high efficiency and so on. Well, I'm not lighting a room for humans, I'm lighting chambers for plants, which really don't care about how smooth the light is, and optimum efficiency is only a factor when you have a warehouse full of lights. For me, completely irrelevant.

Thanks to Osram for making reasonably priced LEDs which are perfectly good for plant growth. Now I don't need any of the "grow LED" hucksters stuff at all. Not really interested in giving extra money away for no good reason. Yes, there's some extra wiring involved because it's a bunch of lightbulbs, but I can live with that, only have to wire it up once then it's no longer an issue. Not saying people shouldn't buy the COB/Quantum products, just that I personally have no interest when there's a cheaper solution readily available, with no shipping involved, which is generally a huge annoyance in addition to expense. And when LED bulbs evolve I can just unscrew the old ones and screw in the new ones, easy as shit.

Click to expand...

VegasWinner said:

I use chilled boards and I have a PAR meter. daily. MY experience actually counts for something. His boards run cool, have been running them for awhile now. so how are your chilled boards running for months now? Experience does not count for nothing around here, unless you are GG or someone you guys picked. please

you need to focus on your competition and that is NOT me. I am just a user that guy that buys and uses you are confusing me with someone else.You do not like what I have to say on another thread you attack me on this one. very obvious. perhaps you need to worry about that cree cob light 1400 and not me. truth hurt but hurt. you guys are getting a little to obvious now. competition getting to big for you boys to handle, you have to pick on me because you do not like my opinion or views. real nice good for your business. just stop, I am not going anaywhere and I am not going to take the passive/aggressive attitudes here any longer. I am a biker and you are going to deal with me now. no more mr nice guy you folks do not act nice so I am going to treat you like you behave now children with toys.

Click to expand...

VegasWinner said:

Yes he did. numerous times in threads and in DM s well. I do not pick on people, I defend my self after others have said nasty tome like now. So why now, I did not seek you out you sought me out in an old thread why? Maybe it is NOT me picking on him. I do not even come around for this VERY reason. I am not going to allow anyone to pick on me and BULLY ME not hre not anywhere. UNDERSTAND? I am a nice person but I will cut your ears off if you bully me. I have been bullied enough in one life. I am standing up for myself. sorry if it offends others. I am not taking bullying from anyone. not from him calling me a liar or anyone else. He has picked on me said he was feeling pissy and started again. I am not putting up with his pissyness his words to me. I am not taking it from ANYONE him or anyone. you want to piss on me, I am going to make it much harder on you now. No more nice guy, say nasty to me mofu you.
So let him fight his own fights you stay out of his fights and do yourself a favor. You will not like me when I get angry trust me. I have exhibited my calm but no more.

Click to expand...